Easter Dinner/Wines

We had our Easter dinner Saturday evening, so our guests the Hughens, who were in from Austin, could get back at a reasonable hour on Sunday. The tasting notes are from memory, since I didn't do anything but enjoy the food, wine, and company on Saturday. We had these wines with Oma's Egyptian Lamb, the recipe for which follows the tasting notes.

2005 Vida Organica Malbec Rose (Mendoza, Argentina) -- I think I previously reviewed (and definitely remember liking) the 2004 version of this wine, and this one is just as good. Fresh nose of strawberry and cherry fruit, with a tad of earthiness too -- unusual for a rose. Great balance, and clean, refreshing flavors. Very nicely done dry rose for drinking throughout the summer months ahead. Was about $8 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

2000 Tardieu-Laurent Cotes du Rhone "Guy Louis" -- Tardieu-Laurent is probably THE best negociant in the south of France, in my view. Their wines are always more expensive in every appellation, but are frequently so far superior to the competition (particularly in the less prestigious appellations) so as to warrant the extra cost. This wine was amazing, and not only would blow away almost any other Cotes du Rhone I've had in the last 20 years, but also most regular Chateauneuf-du-Papes as well. Remarkable nose of rich blackberry, cassis, incense and earthy-iodine scents. Still young in the mouth, with some tannic structure for a few more years' development (if you've got a cellar or good temperature controlled wine storage unit -- I don't). Great length and concentration. I think I paid about $24 a couple of years ago for this, but Specs on Smith still has some left, albeit at $29 now.

Recipe for "Egyptian Lamb" -- This is a recipe I got from Liz's mom, and it's become our Easter tradition. We had it yesterday with the wines listed above. It results in a well-done roast (not rare, so beware), but it's very flavorful and moist. The presentation is nice because you've got a leg of lamb surrounded by neat piles of many different-colored roasted veggies, all of whose flavors have mingled with the roast juices.

1 6 to 8 lb. leg of lamb
1 large clove garlic (crushed)
2 onions or leeks, roughly minced
1 lb green beans
2-4 eggplants, depending on size (I like smaller ones), cut into 1" cubes
1 1/2 lbs zucchini, cut in half, lengthwise, then into 1/2 " slices
2 green bell peppers
3-4 tomatoes, cut into large chunks
1/2 teas. marjoram
2 bay leaves
2 tblsp. chopped parsley
3 tblsp. tomato paste
oregano (dried)
salt, pepper

Preheat over to 450. Bone leg of lamb. Rub lamb all over with crushed garlic. Sprinkle and rub in salt, pepper, and oregano. (Optionally, then put bone back in and tie meat up around it since bones add flavor).

Allow 30 minutes per pound total cooking time. Place leg in a LARGE roasting pan in oven, and roast at high heat for 20 minutes or so. Then reduce heat to 325. When you've got about 2 1/2 hours to go (which may be right away if you've got a smaller leg), add the onions or leeks, and soften them in the roast juices for 10 minutes or so. While that's going on, parboil the green beans in 1 cup water, reserving the water. Push the onions/leeks into a pile, then add the green beans and all the other veggies, in separate mounds surrounding the leg. Season with salt and pepper. Add marjoram, bay leaves, and parsley. Dissolve tomato paste in reserved green bean water, and pour over all veggies.

Roast, uncovered, until lamb is done, basting occasionally.

Carve into thick slices and arrange on plates with desired veggies. Spoon on pan juices.

VARIATIONS: Yesterday, I tried a few variations, and we all liked them. First, instead of rubbing with one clove of garlic, I pressed three finely chopped cloves of garlic into the meat (both outside and inside where I replaced and tied in the bone). Second, instead of oregano, marjoram, and bay leaf, I used the leaves of several sprigs of fresh rosemary, again, pressed into the meat. Third, I've taken to using Indian eggplant (available at Fiesta near Reliant Stadium). They're smaller (about the size of an egg), firmer, and have a better flavor than the big spongy monstrosities that pass for regular eggplant these days.

2004 Frey Vineyards Redwood Valley Zinfandel (Mendocino County)

Bright medium-deep ruby purple. Tangy nose of mountain berry fruit. Tart, straightforward berry fruit in the mouth -- but the simple fruit is overwhelmed by the acidity of the wine. The label, which proclaims that the wine is totally organic and has no detectable level of sulfites, suggests to me that the acidity is the result of picking too early, rather than a manipulative winemaker adding acidity to the wine. 82. $11 at Whole Foods on Bellaire. If the pickers had just waited a bit longer . . . .

2004 Fess Parker Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir

The fragrance of this wine alone is worth the price. Pure dark ruby color. Wonderfully rich nose of mountain berries, earth, rhubarb, and root beer. Still some some youthful angularity in the mouth, but rich flavors of berries and cola, smoky oak and earth. Full-bodied, with a relatively long finish, with a little heat (14.9% alcohol!). Nose a 91; flavors at 88, but with potential to improve over the next year.

I got this wine a couple of months ago at Spec's, when it was first released, at $19.10, but Spec's is now selling it for $22 and change. Still, given how hard it is to find Pinots this good for under $30-35, this is an excellent buy.

2004 "Carro" (Southeast Spain)

Another great buy from Spain!

This wine is 50% Monastrell (Mourvedre), with Syrah, Tempranillo, and Merlot blended in. Deep black ruby color. Rich, deep aromas of ripe blackberries, roasted meat, and vanilla spices. Concentrated, intense blackberry, plummy flavors, with some earthiness way in the background. Full-bodied, with a long, pure finish. Some soft, ripe tannin in the back of the mouth. Will soften and improve over the next couple of years. An unbelievable value at $7 and change at Spec's on Smith. 90+

To help you find this, the label is very simple looking -- it's a chestnut brown, with a stick figure drawing of a old-fashioned farmer's cart, and simply says "Carro" on the front.

One more thing: To show just how ludicrous Christopher's Fine Wines' pricing is (see my post immediately below), this wine is $12 there. That's about 70% more expensive than at Spec's.

Christopher's Fine Wines on West Gray: I don't get it.

What is with this place (formerly known as "Christopher's Wine Warehouse")? Is its motto "Why Pay Less?" Sheesh. I get their newsletter in the mail, and there's no doubt they stock some interesting wines, but their business model seems to be: focus solely on wines generally unavailable elsewhere in the city, and then charge almost restaurant magnitude mark-ups. Between the many Spec's and Richard's locations alone (putting aside other places like Whole Foods on Bellaire and Copperfield's), there simply is no reason except precious pomposity to go to a place like this.

Coming up soon, I will bite the bullet and go rub shoulders with the swells from River Oaks to see what Central Market is doing these days with their wine selection. I was last there about a year ago (I really don't like the crowd there--too many Jags, Range Rovers, and surgically altered bodies), and from what I recall they had a very good selection with generally high prices. I'm interested to see if that's still the case.

2004 Bodegas Ochoa 50% Graciano/50% Garnacha (Navarra, Spain)

Incredibly youthful deep ruby color, with bloody magenta right up to the rim. Tart nose of barely ripe cherries and raspberries, lemon juice, sweet cream and steely minerals. The palate was dry and somewhat tart as well, medium-bodied, with underripe raspbberry, lemon, and chalky flavors. This wine will probably soften up and mellow a bit with a year or two in the bottle, but I think the grapes were picked just shy of being fully ripe, so it will never change enough to be really special. Nevertheless, this tart style would lend itself as a nice counterpoint to very rich, braised meats such as coda alla vaccinara (oxtail Roman style, one of my favorite dishes). 84+. Was under $10 at Spec's on Smith.

2002 Chateau Souverain Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Chateau Souverain has for years been one of my favorite wineries for consistent, high quality Sonoma County wines. I still remember picking up half a dozen bottles of their excellent 1990 Dry Creek Zin at Yankee Spirits in Massachusetts for about $5.99/bottle. While such prices are long gone, this winery still beats most of the larger, high quality California wineries on price.

The 2002 Alexander Valley Cabernet is typical of the region, typical of Chateau Souverain's style, and darn good. Sporting a deep, saturated black ruby color, with a purple tinge to it, the wine leads with terrific, deep-toned scents of sweet cassis and blueberries, with caramelly-sweet, smoky, gravelly scents as well. Very concentrated smoky fruit, with full body, nice length, and great balance. Very drinkable now, this wine will easily last and improve for 3 to 4 years, minimum. 90+

I got this for $19.50 on sale at Fiesta (the one near Reliant Stadium, which, by the way, is my favorite grocery store in the city! . . . incredible selection of fresh produce, diverse ethnic foods, and unusual cuts of meat). It was my "Saturday night splurge" wine, but that's still a great price for Cabernet of this quality.

2003 Patient Cottat Sancerre "Vieilles Vignes"

Since good Sancerres (one of my favorite expressions of the Sauvignon Blanc grape) tend to cost between $15 - $30, this wine was a pretty good value at $14.88.

Because of the hot 2003 vintage, I expected this wine to have slightly lower acidity than typical Sancerres, and that was indeed the case. Bright greenish-tinged pale gold. Spritely nose of lemon-lime, ripe grapes, and sea shells. Round mouthfeel, medium-full body, with apple/pear and herb flavors. Good length, though there was a little pepperiness on the finish. Got it at Spec's on Smith. 87. Drink over the next year or two.

2004 Coron Pere & Fils St. Veran "Domaine de Montagny"

This wine is usually a good value in a soft, flavorful, unoaked white burgundy (i.e., French Chardonnay). The 2004 is no exception (though the 2003, which I had just before I started this blog, was flabby, tired, and out-of-balance, no doubt due to the ridiculous heat that year). Coron's style -- at least for the Maconais wines I've tried from this producer -- seem to play up the soft, ripe (even peachy) fruit that ripe Chardonnay can produce. This style is in sharp, stark contrast to the style of the Verget white burgundies I've tried. Verget is another producer whose wines are featured at Spec's. While both producers' wines from the Maconais taste unoaked, it's clear, at least to me, that Verget clearly strives for the austere, minerally side of Chardonnay. I definitely favor the Coron house style.

Bright yellow gold with greenish glints. Gorgeous nose of white peaches, smoky minerals, and talcum powder. Soft, rich fruit in the mouth, with lingering minerally flavors in the long, low acid finish. Soft, friendly, and accessible. Drink before the year is up. 87. Was $13.22 at Spec's on Holcombe (and I've seen it at other Spec's too.)

Texas Alcohol Beverage Commission Engaging in Petty Protectionism

I'm on the e-mailing lists for a bunch of retail stores around the country from which I've ordered small amounts of hard-to-get wines over the last several years. One of them, Sherry-Lehmann in NYC, sent me an e-mail today saying that the Texas Alcoholic Beverage Commission had sent them a cease-and-desist letter threatening criminal prosecution if they continued to ship wine to Texas consumers. As a result, they'll no longer ship to me.

Here's an excerpt from the e-mail:

An Official Announcement from Sherry-Lehmann Wine & Spirits

WE ARE SORRY, BUT WE CAN NO LONGER SHIP TO TEXAS

In spite of a recent Supreme Court ruling (Granholm v. Heald) in favor of free trade, the state of Texas has passed new, anti-consumer legislation forbidding out-of-state retailers and auction houses from shipping wine to their customers in Texas.
Sherry-Lehmann has just received a formal cease-and-desist letter from the Texas Alcohol Beverage Commission. The letter states that if we continue to ship wine into Texas, we will be subject to criminal prosecution.

This law violates the United State's Supreme Court's ruling that practices permitted for in-state wine businesses must also be extended to out-of-state wine businesses.
It is unconstitutional to permit in-state wine retailers the right to ship wine, but to prohibit the practice for out-of-state retailers.

What a colossal waste of my Texas taxes. Threatening hoidy-toidy, high-end wine retailers who sell what must be miniscule amounts of classified growth Bordeaux and snooty Burgundies to a few Texas connoisseurs is ridiculous.

While Sherry-Lehmann says this is contrary to the US Supreme Court's 2005 decision in Granholm v. Heald, I don't know if that's right. Granholm says that a state can't treat out-of-state wineries worse than in-state wineries by allowing the in-state ones to ship out but not the out-of-state ones to ship in. I don't know if Texas liquor stores can ship out-of-state, so I don't know if Granholm applies to the Texas scheme. Be that as it may, the point is: THIS IS A STUPID RULE. What is the cost to benefit ratio here?? By going after Sherry-Lehmann, and probably others, Texas is essentially saying, "Oh my God, we need to stop this influx of Premier Cru Cotes de Nuits from leading to the decay of the moral fiber of the state! Whatever will we do if too many people get their lips on a glasses of limited production Brunellos or single vineyard "garagiste" Pomerols? Heavens to Betsy!"

Get a grip. Doesn't the state have better ways to spend its money?

(UPDATE): And another thing. Even as protectionism, this fails. I don't order wines from out of state retailers unless I CAN'T get it from the several Houston (and sometimes Austin) retailers I patronize. I mean, why have to pay the expensive additional shipping if you can get it at your local retailers? Extrapolating from my own experience and using common sense, does the sporadic ordering by wine collectors from out-of-state retailers REALLY have any economic effect on Texas wine retailers??? The answer is pretty obviously NO.

2002 Yalumba "Bush Vines" Grenache (Barossa Valley, Australia)

Despite the word "Bush" in the name of this wine, I really like this one a lot. It will be hard to find the 2002 vintage of this wine in stores, however, as most of the places I shop have been stocking only the 2003 for a several months now. But if you see some 2002 lying around -- SNAP IT UP!

The last bottle of this I had was about a year ago, and it's held up really nicely since then. Almost fully saturated black ruby color (more like a Shiraz than a Grenache). Beautiful nose of smoky balsa wood, raspberry liqueur, and minerals. Rich, soft, concentrated mouthfeel, with flavors of salty raspberry extract and a hint of iodine. Long, intense finish. This would blow away most Chateauneuf-du-Papes (the most famous Grenache-based wine) costing 3 times as much. 90. Was about $12 at Spec's on Westheimer (near Fogo de Chao) when I got this about a year ago.

2003 Mas Carlot Costieres de Nimes "Les Enfants Terrible"

Of the mixed bag that is 2003 in the south of France, this is one of the good ones. Deep, soft, black-ruby. Very ripe, deep-toned nose of sweet cream, soft cigar smoke, and blackberries. Soft, broad, low acid palate impression, with flavors of iodine, blackberry liqueur, and scorched earth. Lots of soft but unobtrusive tannin. Drink over the next year. 87. Was $11.99 at Richard's on San Felipe.

2004 Bonny Doon "Vin Gris de Cigare" Rosé

A perfect for rosé for immediate drinking. Bright salmon pink color. Vivacious nose of sweet oranges and strawberries. Fleshy, lively, weighty (for a rosé) and dry in the mouth. I like rosés to be fresh and young, so I wouldn't leave this one until the summer, but for right now, it's really fun to drink. 88. Was $10 at Spec's (just about all of them).

2003 Domaine Paul Blanck Alsace Riesling (France)

Here's a very nice, if atypical, Alsace Riesling. Deepish straw-gold with brassy highlights. Big, fruity nose of lemon/lime, skins of ripe Red Delicious apples, and chalky/petrolly minerals. Big in the mouth too, with rich apply/pear flavors, with stones in the background. Full-bodied, with just barely perceptible residual sweetness. Not complex, but quite satisfying -- kind of like a big, goofy friend. Very low acidity gives it a flatter mouthfeel than most Alsace Rieslings, but I liked it despite this small criticism. Not a Riesling to age, but to drink now. 87. $16.43 (which isn't bad for an Alsace Riesling) at the Spec's on Westheimer & Waugh.

2003 Cline "Ancient Vines" Zinfandel (California)

I was expecting to be down on this wine because Robert Parker has been dissing Cline Zins of late, but this was quite nice. Deep, soft blackish ruby color. Atypical nose for a Zin, with plums, spice, hickory smoke and caramel. Absolutely sexy, voluptuous mouthfeel. Honestly, there are other ways to describe the texture, but this is a family blog. Almost port-like ripeness, with a long, lush finish. Not complex, but very fun to drink. My bud Robert, who gave me this, said it needs to be drunk right away, and he's right. 88. I think I've seen this in several places for about $13-14.

2002 Hill of Content Grenache/Shiraz (South Australia)

89. A very pleasure-giving wine. Gorgeous nose of raspberries and ripe, sweet lemons, with chalky minerals in the background. Soft, salty raspberry flavors in the mouth, with a long, pure, fruity finish. Just perfect balance. Would go nicely with any number of dishes, from red-sauced pastas to roast chicken to grilled or roasted meats. Not complex so much as hedonistic. Kinda like an Australian version of Beaujolais, but with a different flavor profile. Was about $12 at Spec's on Smith.

2003 Finca Luzon Jumilla (Spain)

Nice value, but not a star. Dark, crystalline ruby color. Fresh, intersting high-toned nose of crushed stones, plums, English Leather cologne, and peanuts. Soft-textured in the mouth, yet with an austere flavor profile, tending toward minerally rather than fruity flavors. Some tannin yet to be resolved in the finish. An idiosyncratic, yet fairly well made wine. 84. Was $8.77 at Spec's on Smith.

2004 Viña Antigua Sangiovese/Bonarda (Maipu, Argentina)

For the second year in a row, this is a tremendous buy in a dirt-cheapo red. I reviewed the 2003 here, and this wine is just as good, at least.

Medium ruby-garnet color. Bright cherry-strawberry aromas in the nose, with crusty bread in the background. Vibrant cherry and mineral flavors, with medium body, good acidity, and a fairly long finish. A great value at $4.20 at Spec's. Reminiscent of a good entry level Chianti, but at 1/2 to 1/3 the price. 85.

2003 Perrin Chateauneuf du Pape "Les Sinards" (Rhone, France)

A disappointment. Robert Parker wrote this up in Decemeber '04 and gave it a great review, saying that it had managed to avoid the harsh tannin and astringency that has plagued many wines from the south of France (and Spain) in this vintage of unprecedented heat. On the strength of that review, I snagged a couple of bottles at Cost Plus several months ago at $23.99 (a great price for a good Chateauneuf!). Stashed 'em in the closet. In the most recent Wine Advocate, however, he re-reviewed it and apparently changed his mind: says it's astringent and tannic.

So I opened a bottle to see what was up. Crap. It was indeed astringent and harsh.

Deep, yet dullish black ruby color (I've noticed that many 2003s from the Southern Rhone, Provence, and the Languedoc have dull color). Nose of scorched earth and graphite, with some simple blackberry fruit in the background. Fairly full-bodied, with straightforward black fruit and peppery charcoal flavors. Rough tannin and astringency are the main components of the finish. Rustic and simple, this wine is not in any way identifiable as a Chateauneuf -- tastes like a generic and pedestrian Cotes du Rhone instead. 79.

I'm going to let the second bottle sit for a year or so and see if anything changes for the better, but I doubt it will.

2004 Woop Woop Shiraz (Southeast Australia)

88. Here's a really good, inexpensive red. Deep, saturated black ruby color. Intense, rich nose of jammy blackberries, vanilla extract, and earthy graphite. Deep flavors of creamy blackberries and pencil lead. Some ripe, well-integrated tannin in the finish. Very nicely done -- gutsy and suave. Will last and perhaps improve over the next 2-3 years. Was $8.76 at Spec's Warehouse on Smith.