2007 Hopler RIESLING (Burgenland, Austria)

A really refreshing, bone-dry Riesling. Very good value. Not as complex and deep as a good Alsace, but terrific for a hot day.

Very light gold with gorgeous greenish glints. Fun, lively nose of perfumey, powdered stones, crisp cool pears, and crunchy Macintosh apples, along with a peachy note. Light-bodied, mouthwateringly refreshing, and dry, it sports crisp, apply fruit and a clean, stony streak. Clean, crisp, medium length finish. 88. Was $16 at Houston Wine Merchant on South Shepherd.

2007 "Velt.1" GRUNER VELTLINER (Koenigsegg, Austria)

Very minerally, crisp, citrusy, and refreshing.

Light straw gold. Demure nose of minerals, melted butter, dried herbs, and grapefruit peel. Crisp ans steely in the mouth, with a pleasant roundness. Bone -- and I mean bone --dry. Linear minerally and lemon-lime flavors. A hint of bitterness in the minerally, medium length finish. Refreshing with food on a hot day, but a little severe on its own. 86. I think I paid around $9 or $10 at Whole Foods on Bellaire for this. Imported by Winesellers Inc., Skokie, Ill.

(Sorry -- 2005 shown)

2005 Nigl GRÜNER VELTLINER "Kremser Freiheit" (Kremstal, Austria)

To my taste, Grüner Veltliner at its best displays beautiful pink grapefruit scents with lots of mineral undertones -- and that's what this one had.

Eye: Light gold with greenish glints.

Nose: Creamed minerals, lots of pink grapefruit and apply fruit, with some straw undertones.

Mouth: Soft-textured, yet with a crisp, zesty mouthfeel. Fresh stoniness with lots of dry bitter-apple and lemon-lime fruit. Long, refreshing finish. Very distinctive.

Score: 88.

Cellar or drink? Drink over the next year.

Price/store: $17 at Spec's on Smith.

2002 Salomon Pfaffenberg Riesling (Austria)

Interesting greenish-pewtery gold color. Fascinating nose of limes, minerals, and Alsace Riesling-like "gout de petrol." Fresh, bright, citrusy/minerally flavors. Like a dry, austere style Alsace Riesling, but lighter in body and with higher acidity, like a German Mosel. Would be stunning with shellfish or shrimp. 87. About $15 at Spec's on Westheimer.

2003 Josef Schmid Gruner Veltliner "Alte Reben Priorissa" (Kremstal, Austria)

Dad and Mom bought this in Austria on the recommendation of a Viennese wine shop owner. Grapefruit and green apple nose, with hints of sweet cream. Soft, alomost oily texture in the mouth, with contrasting flavors of ripe pears and peppery minerals. Clean, crisp, but hot finish. Maybe too angular as an aperitif wine (which is how we drank it) but I think it would shine with some shrimp or shellfish. 87.