2010 Jean-Paul Brun FLEURIE "Terres Dorées" (Beaujolais, France)

Another old school Beaujolais from this producer.  If you like your Beaujolais lean and minerally, this is for you.

Dark ruby garnet.  Dark smoky, rocky minerals take the lead in the nose, with hard cherry candy fruit scents.  Lean, crisp, and persistent in the mouth.  With minerals from start to finish, and crunchy cherry, plum fruit.  Great acids and some very fine tannins mark the finish.  This is not vacuous, fruity, fun Beaujolais, but a wine made for dinner duty.  B+.  If memory serves, I got this for around $21 at table and Vine in West Springfield, MA when I was up there last fall.  Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections.

(Sorry, 2009 depicted.)

2011 Jean-Marc Burgaud BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES "Les Vignes de Thulon" (Burgundy, France)

A great value in a crisp, flavorful Beaujolais.  Clean, fruity, crisp, minerally.  Gulp this sh*t down!

Crystal clear dark ruby violet color.  Fun, exuberant nose of crunchy berries, cold plums, and clean, stony minerals.  Very lively in the mouth.  Not a lot of concentration, but it's doing somersaults and ricocheting around with crisp berry fruit and stoniness, good acids, and a tad bit of tannin.  Very clean finish that invites sip after sip.  B+.  Fantastic value that I got for $9.99 at Table & Vine in West Springfield, MA.  Imported by Ideal Wines, Medford, MA.

2009 Jean-Paul Brun CÔTE DE BROUILLY "Terres Dorées" (Beaujolais, France)

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A mature, smooth, flavorful, old-school Beaujolais.  A little bottle age really smooths out some of the better, tightly-constructed Beaujolais, and that's what's happened here.  Me likee.

Dark ruby color.  Really rich nose of dark mixed berries and lots of clean stony and vaguely foresty notes.  Soft, lithe, and intensely fruity in the mouth initially, showing lots of pure berry fruit, then the mineraliness kicks in quickly and clings tenaciously to the tongue and the insides of your cheeks.  Pretty full bodied for a Beaujolais (probably due to the warm '09 growing season), but with good purity and liveliness, despite low-ish acids for a Beaujolais.  A-.  Drink over the next 8-12 months.  Was $18.99 from Wine Exchange, Los Angeles, Cal.  Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections.

2010 Gilles Gelin BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES (Southern Burgundy, France)

I drank a bottle of the a couple of weeks ago and didn't write about it because I didn't like it.  It seemed overly lean, austere, and dried out.

It must have been an off bottle, because this, my second bottle, was really good.

I think this grower markets his wines under two labels:  Gilles Gelin, and Domaine des Nugues.  I've previously extolled the Domaine des Nugues Beaujolais wines, and this alternate label wine is also terrific.  I'm not sure if they're different cuvees, or just different labels.  Regardless, this wine is fruity, minerally, energetic, soft and very, very lively.

Highly saturated violet-inflected dark ruby.  Unbelievably bright nose of ripe yet vibrantly crisp red fruits (you can actually smell the acids, making your nose tingle) and clean stoniness.  Bright, refreshing, and nicely concentrated in the mouth.  It's the kind of wine that both so cleanly-fruited, ripe, yet crisp that it's hard to get tired of drinking it.  No it's not complex, just ridiculously addictive to drink.  B+/A-.  Imported by Fleet Street Wine Merchants, I got this for $16.99.  Not cheap for a Beaujolais-Villages, but well worth it.

UPDATE:  I've now drunk the last of 6 bottles of this that I had, and the bottle variation was maddening.  3 bottles were fruity and nice, like the bottle described in detail above.  The other three were dried-out, lacking fruit, and hard as industrial steel -- like the first one described in the intro to this post.  This is Russian Roulette in bottles.

2010 Chateau Thivin CÔTE DE BROUILLY (Beaujolais, France)

A vigorous, lean and intensely minerally Beaujolais.  This is typically one of my favorite estates in Beaujolais, but I think they've recently started making different cuvees, and this is the basic bottling.  I am a little fearful that this will result in the same thing that's pervading Chateauneuf-du-Pape, where reserve cuvees have led to diminishing quality in the wines bearing the regular (and previously only) label.

Medium dark violet-tinged grapey ruby color.  A nose reminiscent of crisp plum and cherry juice poured over sharp, just-cracked stones.  Lots of crisp, minerally and grapey/cherry fruit hit the palate immediately, but there's a little hollowness in the middle.  A crisp, zesty finish carries with it a surprising amount of soft tannin.  A little angular but a very pleasant dinner wine with rustic food.  B.  Was $19.99, but I forgot where I got it.  Imported by Kermit Lynch.

2010 Domaine Calot MORGON "Vieilles Vignes" (Beaujolais, France)

This is a solid, very lively Beaujolais.

Medium ruby garnet color.  Very tangy, boysenberry, grapey, rhubarby nose, with a bit of stoniness.  Bright, tangy, and much more minerally in the mouth, bone dry, with great acids.  Dry cherrystone/berry fruit attacks the palate.  A bit of soft tannin, and crisp acids.  This is a very refreshing wine to drink with fatty foods or grilled burgers in hot weather.  Not complex by any stretch, but refreshing on a summer night.  B.  Was $17.99 at Whole Foods in the Clarendon area of Arlington. Imported by Dionysos Imports, Manassas, VA.

2009 Vincent Girardin FLEURIE "Domaine de la Chapelle" "Vieilles Vignes" (Beaujolais, France)

I usually go for old-school, traditional-tasting wines.  Particularly with Beaujolais, where the old school has tight, intensely stony, refreshing and linear wines, and the new school (DeBouef and many of the negociants) is, to my taste, muddled, sometimes flabby, and usually uninteresting. This one is not old school, but, dang, it's good!  This is how modern style should be done.

Strikingly deep, pure, violet-tinged ruby.  Wonderfully inviting nose of juicy plums and sweet, dark cherries along with a tangy, powdered stone note.  Bone dry, yet ripe and juicy in the mouth.  Nicely structured, with refreshing acids and a little but of very fine-grained tannin.  Nice purity.  A joy to drink.  Great balance too.  The only thing it lacks is a bit more minerally complexity, but it's Beaujolais, so maybe I'm being too analytically hard on it.  A-.  Imported by Vineyard Brands, I got this for $14.99 from Winex.com.

2010 Domaine Dupré RÉGNIÉ "Vignes de 1918" (Beaujolais, France)

Fragrant, ripe, fleshy, and eminently quaffable.  Not as crisp and minerally as I would have expected from a traditional producer in this vintage, but it was a very good value at $12.99.

Intensely vivid magenta-tinged ruby.  Ripe cherry, plummy fruit with a very subtle high-toned smoky, rocky note.  Fleshy and a little tannic in the mouth, but with very pleasing ripeness,  it's a tad less tightly-wound and concentrated as I usually look for in a Beaujolais.  But despite its atypical character, I enjoyed it a lot.  Decent acids keep it from being too flat, and it went really well with a hamburger from the local Five Guys.  B.  I got this from Wines Til Sold Out on the web at wtso.com. Imported by Serge Dore Selections.

(Sorry, 2009 depicted).

2009 Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois FLEURIE "Cuvee Vieilles Vignes de la Cadole" (Beaujolais, France)

Very pure smelling and tasting but lacking concentration enough even for a Beaujolais.

Bright, crystalline deep ruby color.  Light intensity nose:  cherries and clean, cracked rocks are discernable, but you have to sniff with some focus to get it.  Nice attack of pure hard cherry candy fruit and loads of stony minerals, but they're evanescent, disappearing quickly.  Some tannins remain in the mouth, and the wine has nice freshness, but the flavors bolt for the exit too fast.  Disappointing.  C+.  Imported by Neal Rosenthal, I think I got this at Houston Wine Merchant a few months ago (before I moved to Virginia).  I think it was around $25, so it was decidedly not a good value.

2009 Domaine Nebout SAINT-POURCAIN (Central France)

From an area in Central France directly west of Macon -- and near no other appellations I know of -- this blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir is not necessarily a great wine (in terms of what excites wine critics) but is a fantastically flexible dinner wine.

Very light ruby garnet color.  At first the nose displayed a fair amount of barnyardy earthiness, but with air the earthiness receded and the wine showed off tangy grapey-crisp cherry scents with an earthiness that reminded me of river stones. Barely medium light-bodied, but with minerally crisp cherry and lemon juice flavors, great acids, a soft texture, and a refreshing finish.  I went fantastically with leftover provencal chicken (here's the recipe).  I wish it were a bit cheaper, but certainly give this a shot to see how a wine SHOULD fit in with a meal.  (Hint, it shouldn't be something that contrasts so vividly that it distracts your attention away from the meal, but should feel like a complementary liquid extension of the food.)  In the abstract, this is a B.  With the chicken, it was an A.  Was $14.99 at Arrowine in Arlington.  Imported by Dionysis Imports, Manassas, VA.

2010 Domaine Balandras MÂCON-SERRIÈRES "Les Gravières" (Red!) (Southern Burgundy, France)

A very fun 100% Gamay red from the Mâcon region, which is almost exclusively known for its inexpensive whites from the Chardonnay grape.  Consider it a nice, but obscure, alternative to Beaujolais (which is the adjoining region known for its reds).


Dark ruby garnet color.  Direct, crushed rock-infused crisp dark cherry and grape aromas.  Lively, medium-bodied and flavorful, this wine isn't very concentrated or complex, but balanced, crisp, and untiring to drink.  Lots of crisp, dark cherry flavors.  Clean, medium long finish.  When you are in the mood for a refreshing wine to have with dinner, this is a great choice.  Will go well with a wide range of dishes.  B.  Imported by Fruit of the Vines.  I can't find the receipt for this one.  I think I may have gotten it for about $15 at Central Market, but don't quote me on that.


(Sorry - 2005 depicted).

2009 Thibault Liger-Belair MOULIN-A-VENT "Vieilles Vignes" (Beaujolais, France)

This was a very good, very large-boned, soulful wine.  But I wasn't thrilled with it at first because it really tastes like it has little in common with Beaujolais from other towns in the region.  I think I am coming to the realization that, even though Moulin-a-Vent is considered by many the pinnacle of Beaujolais, it's just not a style I like as Beaujolais as much as the other communes (like Cote de Brouilly, Julienas, Regnie, etc.)  Moulin-a-Vents tend to be bigger, more structured, earthier, and do not have the crunchy, vibrant, granite-laced cherry fruit I love when I think of Beaujolais.

And perhaps that's my problem:  I'm measuring Moulin-a-Vents against a Beaujolais background, when, really, to me, it tastes like something other than Beaujolais.  Maybe I'd enjoy them more if I could purge my mind of "Beaujolais-think" when I'm drinking these.

Anyway . . .  This had an almost completely saturated, very black-hued ruby color.  It was extremely earthy at first in a dry, barnyardy kind of way, but after airing, intensely stony scents began to dominate, along with some crisp, dark cherry and plum skin fruit.  It was mouthfilling and bone dry, with intense acidity as well.  Exceedingly stony, minerally flavors dominate, but with blackberry fruit underneath all that terroir.  Long, dry, intense, and fairly tannic (for Beaujolais) finish.  This wine clearly needs some bottle ageing to settle down and let the flavors fill out to fit the physical structure of the wine.  Still, it's very enjoyable with food right now.  Just don';t think of it as a Beaujolais.  Think of it more as a Gigondas, but made with Gamay instead of Rhone varietals.  B+(+)*.  Was $25 from B-21 Wines in Florida.

* The "(+)" means that the wine may well improve with 1-3 years in a cool cellar or wine fridge.

2009 Domaine de la Voute des Crozes COTES de BROUILLY (Beaujolais, France)

A tightly-wound, classic cru Beaujolais at value price.

Jet black ruby with dark purple highlights.  Intense nose of crunchy cherry candy, cracked stones, and a hint of Juicy Fruit gum.  Intensely minerally cherry and plum skin flavors.  Tight and bone dry, with a surprisingly (for a Beaujolais) amount of tannin in the finish.  Good acids too.  This wine will be better in a year or so, but it is very enjoyable now as well.  Very food-friendly.  B+.  Imported by Kermit Lynch, I got this for $18 from B-21 Wines in Florida.

2007 Thierry Puzelat "Pouille" TOURAINE (Loire Valley, France)

This really fun-to-smell-and-drink red is an unusual blend of 60% Grolleau (a varietal I don't believe I've ever knowingly drunk) and 40% Gamay. It is biodynamically grown and just loaded with character.

Medium light ruby garnet. Gorgeously fragrant nose of ripe plum, earthy sandstone, graham crackers, and lemon juice. Soft-textured and crisp in the mouth, with refreshing flavors of cherry, tart plum, and loads of stony, clean minerals. Light-bodied and addictively quaffable. Very distinctive. 89 for sheer fun. Imported by Louis/Dressner, I got this for $16 from Zachys.com in Scarsdale NY.

2007 Jean Foillard MORGON "Cote du Py" (Beaujolais, France)

A beautifully balanced, elegant, refreshing Beaujolais. Went down way too easily.

Medium ruby garnet. Gorgeously sweet nose of spiced ripe plums and fragrant powdered stones, with a squeeze of lemon juice. Soft but persistent fruit, in a fresh, medium-bodied package. Stone-infused, fruity finish. Very approachable and fun. 88. I think I got this at Houston Wine Merchant a while back, and it was around $25, but I can't be sure. Imported by Kermit Lynch.

2008 Clos de la Roilette FLEURIE (Beaujolais, France)

A really nice, classic-style Beaujolais from the higher-falutin' appellation of Fleurie.

Light ruby color.

Classic nose of crushed stone-infused bright cherry candy and grapes. Good weight, full body, with aggressive yet soft flavors -- lots of stony minerals, crushed sea shells, and an intense streak of dry cherry extract. Good acidity provides nice lift. Textbook cru Beaujolais. 88.

Got it online at Zachys.com for $22. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections (one of the best).

2007 Jean Francois Merieau TOURAINE GAMAY "Le Bois Jacou" (Loire Valley, France)

A light and refreshing red.

Medium ruby garnet. Very Beaujolais-like nose (Gamay is the grape that is used in Beaujolais) but with a higher-toned minerality. I am guessing this has to do with the differences in the soil. In very broad generalities, Beaujolais is known for its granite rich soil, while the Loire is more known for its chalky, limestoney soil.

Crisp and light in the mouth, with a good initial attack that falls away quickly, leaving mostly crisp acids and some minerality in the finish. A palate-cleansing style for hot days (put a light chill on this wine for extra refreshment) or to cut through garlicky, tomatoey dishes. 85. Imported by Jon David Headrick Selections (a relatively new but very good importer). Don't quote me on this, but I think I got this at Central Market for around $15.

2005 Georges Viorney COTE DE BROUILLY "Cuvée Vieilles Vignes" (Beaujolais, France)

This 4-year old Beaujolais tasted remarkably vibrant and refreshing for its age.

Youthful, crystalline dark black ruby. Great, classic Beaujolais nose of sweet, crunchy plums and cherries, along with lots of granite-y minerality. Zest and vibrant in the mouth, with peppery, clean cherry / berry fruit and lots of clean, stony minerals. Some very fine-grained, rounded tannins still noticeable, amazingly enough. This wine has aged beautifully for a Beaujolais. Only thing it lacked was just a tad more concentration to take it to that highest level. 87. Imported by North Berkeley Imports, I got it direct from them for about $15 several months ago.

2007 Domaine de Colette RÉGNIÉ "Séléction Vieilles Vignes" (Beaujolais, France)

This is consistently one of my favorite estates for crisp, intense, refreshing old-school Beaujolais.

The 2007 has a beautiful, crystal clear dark ruby color. Pure, piercing nose of sweet cherries and plums, along with freshly-cracked stones -- but this emerges only after it's been opened for over an hour. At first, the nose was quite closed.


Silky-smooth textured in the mouth, but with nervous, bone-dry flavors of crisp cherry, loads of stony minerals, and bit of cracked black peppercorns. A very lively mouthful of wine. 87. Imported by Charles Neal Selections, I got this for $18.99 at Central Market.

2007 Domaine Sauvette TOURAINE "Les Gravouilles" (Loire Valley, France)

A Gamay-based wine from the Loire -- think of it as the Loire's Beaujolais -- that is both cheap and really good. A superbly-refreshing wine.

Medium dark dusty ruby color. Bright nose of cold stones, candied tart cherries, and fresh, ripe grapes. Crystal clean Beaujolais-style mouthfeel, with zero tannins. Lots of tangy, stony, tartish berry/cherry flavors. Very nice acid balance. Maybe a bit higher-toned stoniness, but same refreshing appeal, as top-notch Beaujolais. 88. North Berkeley Imports sells this direct for $13.50, making it a great buy.

(Sorry: Sauvignon label shown.)