2009 Three Vineyards MATARO "Spinelli Vineyard" (Contra Costa County, Cal.)

A wine that juxtaposes lusciousness with balance.  Really fine.  Is it the 125-yr. old vines (that's not a typo) or great winemaking?  Probably both.  Get some.

Dark black ruby with violet highlights.  Nose of perfectly ripe dark berries, along with notes of dark liquid minerals, fresh parsley and sandalwood.  Mouthfilling and mouthcoating rich fruit, primarily dark, ripe, iodine-laced blackberry extract.  Gobs of very soft tannin give great structure, and the wine has depth yet is not heavy.  Decent acids, and a long finish.  Just a joy to drink.  A.  Was $19.99 from WineAccess.com.

2009 Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois FLEURIE "Cuvee Vieilles Vignes de la Cadole" (Beaujolais, France)

Very pure smelling and tasting but lacking concentration enough even for a Beaujolais.

Bright, crystalline deep ruby color.  Light intensity nose:  cherries and clean, cracked rocks are discernable, but you have to sniff with some focus to get it.  Nice attack of pure hard cherry candy fruit and loads of stony minerals, but they're evanescent, disappearing quickly.  Some tannins remain in the mouth, and the wine has nice freshness, but the flavors bolt for the exit too fast.  Disappointing.  C+.  Imported by Neal Rosenthal, I think I got this at Houston Wine Merchant a few months ago (before I moved to Virginia).  I think it was around $25, so it was decidedly not a good value.

Wine trends I don't like #1

Argentine Malbecs are everywhere, and they seem to be taking up shelf space at the expense of Aussie reds, particularly the Aussie Grenaches, which I love.  To me, Malbecs just aren't that interesting.  Earthy and coarse by nature, the trend in Argentina seems to be to try to bypass those characteristics by harvesting them much riper and oaking the crap out of them.  Count me out.  Haven't had one I really liked in a very long time . . . was it a Tikal?  Anyway, Australia is definitely considered uncool these days.  Not sure why.  I really miss seeing those old vine Grenaches on store shelves.  Big, ripe, yet food friendly, with warm, complex aromatics.  Bring them back please.

2009 Quivira ZINFANDEL (Dry Creek Valley, Cal)

I almost poured this wine down the drain shortly after I opened it because it was so weird initially.  I'm glad I put it away and drank it the next night, because the time helped it a lot.

Bright intense ruby color. The first day, the nose was just bizarre.  First, there was a ton of that pungent, American oak smell I associate with old school Rioja, but it was coupled with an almost cartoonishly exaggerated tangy, rhubarby/boysenberryish fruit--almost like it was concocted in a New Jersey food lab.  So I put the Vacu-Vin on it and forgot about it for a day.  The next night, it was far more normal.  The American oak smell was gone and a pure, bright, blackberryish fruit emerged.  There was good concentration in the mouth, but with nice balance.  Clingy, pure, deep fruit, a long finish, and pretty good acidity.  Almost imperceptible tannin added some frame to it.  Very nice  dinner accompaniment.  Scored on the second night, I would give it a B+.  Give this wine LOTS of air time to come around.  Was $19.99 at Arrowine in Arlington.

2009 Monchiero LANGHE NEBBIOLO (Piemonte, Italy)

Tasted blind, I'm not sure I'd be able to place this as a Nebbiolo.  But knowing what it is, I can see some varietal character, but in a youthful, simple style.

Light, bright ruby red color.  Straightforward fruity aromas of cherry, plum, and a little strawberry.  A bit more depth and grip than the light color and bouncy, fruity nose would lead you to expect.  Good acids and noticeable tannin, but little complexity.  Clingy flavors of dark cherry and some roasted herbal resin.  Fun to drink.  But tastes like it's from very young vines.  B. Was $16 and change at Arrowine in Arlington. (I've got to get out more . . .  seems like Arrowine is the only place I ever have time to do any wine shopping.)  Imported by Scoperta Importing Co., Cleveland Heights, OH.

2009 Dragonia "Old Vine" GARNACHA (Carinena, Spain)

A good value, pure-tasting, easy-drinking wine for weekday dinners.  Not especially concentrated but the flavors are very nice.

Absolutely pure-looking ruby.  And I mean ruby, as in, take a ruby, and imagine it's a liquid.  Nose is likely freshly put-up ripe raspberry jam, with a very subtle hint of clean cracked stones.  Ripe and mouthfilling, with ripe raspberry fruit, good acids, full body, and a bit of soft tannin for structure.  Not particularly concentrated, but fun to guzzle with dinner.  B.  Drink over the next year.  Was $9.99 at Arrowine in Arlington.  Imported by A W Direct, Inc, of Novato, CA.

2010 Domaine les Ondines COTES DU RHONE "La Buissonnade" (Southern France)

A good, cheap entry level Cotes du Rhone.  At its price point, it delivers.

Luminescent dark ruby/violet.  Medium intensity nose of ripe, spicy, black raspberries, tart acidity (yes, you can smell the acidity), and high-toned stoniness.  Dark spicy blackberry/black cherry fruit with loads of rocky minerals and a teensy bit of iodiney burnt herbs.  Not terribly concentrated, and the finish thins out quicker than I'd like, but the flavors and balance make this a nice, refreshing weekday dinner accompaniment.  B.  Imported by Wine Traditions of Falls Church, VA, this wine was $9.99 at Arrowine in Arlington.

(Sorry, 2007 depicted).

2008 Podere Canneta SAN GIMIGNANO ROSSO "Zenit" (Tuscany, Italy)

From the Tuscan town known for, in my view, one of the most overrated white wines in the world, this Sangiovese-based red is basically akin to a good Chianti, which is, unsurprisingly, the larger region within which this town is located.  Are there better Chiantis at this pricepoint?  Maybe a few.  But this is very tasty and also is a conversation piece because of its unusual appellation.

Dark ruby garnet.  Very typically Chianti-like nose of dry gravelly/schisty earthiness infusing winey cherries.  Bone dry in the mouth, with good acids and a cheek-coating dose of soft tannins.  Flavors of dry leather and earthy chokecherries.  Fairly-full bodied, with lots of schisty minerals and a slight bit of heat in the fairly long finish.  B.  Was $14.99 at The Italian Store (Lee Hwy & Spout Run, in Arlington).  Imported by Michael R. Downey Selections, Woodbridge, VA.

2009 Boas Vinhas DAO (Portugal)

A very easy-drinking wine that will go with practically anything you could make for dinner (except fish).  And it's inexpensive.

Dark ruby color.  Loads of spicy plummy fruit accented by some subtle rocky minerality.  Ripe, fruity, and very soft in the mouth.  Not particularly concentrated, but goes down very easy with food (what the French call "gouyelant," I believe).  Fairly low in acidity, but pure and clean on the finish.  Drink over the next year.  B.  Was $9.99 at Arrowine.  Imported by Wine in Motion, New Jersey (which I've never heard of).  40% Touriga Nacional, 30% Tinta Roriz, 30% Alfrocheiro (never heard of that last varietal).

2006 Robert Young Winery "Red Winery Road" CABERNET SAUVIGNON (Alexander Valley, Cal.)

I don't drink many California Cabs (they're pricey and many are the furthest thing from food-friendly) but I do have a weakness for the occasional Alexander Valley wine.  They tend to be softer, broader, and friendlier, with a clean, loamy earthiness.  This one is pretty typical of the genre.

Soft-hued dark ruby.  Rich, ripe cassis/blackberry fruit, accented with a modest amount of sweet vanillin from the French oak and the open Alexander Valley earthiness there in the background.  Soft and mouthfilling, with dark-toned ripe red fruit and a mouth-coating sweet graphite component.  Finishes dry and very minerally, still with some soft tannin.  Would pair nicely with roast prime rib or an Argentine-style beef cutlet "Milanese."  B+.  I got this from WTSO.com for $30 several months ago.

2009 Domaine Nebout SAINT-POURCAIN (Central France)

From an area in Central France directly west of Macon -- and near no other appellations I know of -- this blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir is not necessarily a great wine (in terms of what excites wine critics) but is a fantastically flexible dinner wine.

Very light ruby garnet color.  At first the nose displayed a fair amount of barnyardy earthiness, but with air the earthiness receded and the wine showed off tangy grapey-crisp cherry scents with an earthiness that reminded me of river stones. Barely medium light-bodied, but with minerally crisp cherry and lemon juice flavors, great acids, a soft texture, and a refreshing finish.  I went fantastically with leftover provencal chicken (here's the recipe).  I wish it were a bit cheaper, but certainly give this a shot to see how a wine SHOULD fit in with a meal.  (Hint, it shouldn't be something that contrasts so vividly that it distracts your attention away from the meal, but should feel like a complementary liquid extension of the food.)  In the abstract, this is a B.  With the chicken, it was an A.  Was $14.99 at Arrowine in Arlington.  Imported by Dionysis Imports, Manassas, VA.

2010 Viejo Isaias Clasico BONARDA (Mendoza, Argentina)

Typical modern "international style" red.  Big, fleshy, extracted, and oaky . . . but it's almost impossible to tell what is is and where it's from.

Almost fully-saturated black ruby.  Oaky nose, featuring loads of baker's chocolate and some jammy dark berry fruit underneath.  Dark, chocolatey flavors as well.  In terms of flavor intensity, there's a lot here, but it tastes more like some labor-intensive mocha drink from Starbucks than a Bonarda (which should have loads of red berry fruit and good acids).  If you like the oaky, way ripe, very extracted "international style," you'll like this more than I did.  To me, this is a C+.  Was $9.99 at the Clarendon-area Whole Foods in Arlington.  Imported by Kysela Pere et Fils. 

2009 Laurent Martray BROUILLY Vieilles Vignes "Combiaty" (Beaujolais region, France)

Fruity and fun, this wine satisfies in a simple, straightforward way.  At least if you're, like me, a Beaujolais fan.

Brilliant, crystalline ruby color.  Very bright, vibrant, crunchy, grapey scents, with a light note of clean, stony minerality.  Medium-light bodied, with dry, clean crisp cherry and grape flavors, fading into a stony finish.  Great acidity makes it feel very crisp and refreshing.  Very clean, medium length finish.  A great accompaniment to light dinners.  (I had it with spicy Thai basil chicken, however, which kind of overwhelmed the wine.)  B.  Was $15.99 at Arrowine.  Imported by Elite Wine Imports, Lorton, VA.

2009 Santo Cristo GARNACHA (Campo de Borja, Spain)

Yet another pure-tasting, deeply-flavored Spanish Grenache at a bargain price.  Sometimes I just crave that straightforward, succulent raspberry extract fruit that these Iberian beauties frequently deliver.  No, they don't have the complexity of Chateauneufs, but they're 1/4 of the price.

Crystalline dark ruby with magenta highlights.  Stunningly vibrant, deep, electric nose of reduced ripe raspberry extract, lemons, and clean, cracked river stones. Full-bodied, intense flavors of black raspberry and black cherry fruit, with a dark, clean minerality in the finish.  Mouthfilling and weighty, but with good acids, this wine is a great choice for weekday casseroles, stews, and braises.  Heck, this would be plenty fun on one of those weekends between paychecks.  Not complex, but it satisfies.  Drink over the next year.  B+.  Imported by Europvin USA, this was $9.99 at Arrowine in Arlington.

A Bleg: Intel on DC/Northern Virginia area wine shops

Here's a "bleg" (blog beg) to any readers either living in the DC/Northern Virginia area or otherwise familiar with the wine shops there:

What are your views on the best wine shops around? Keep in mind that my preferences are for stores with a broad selection from offbeat or otherwise underappreciated regions and grapes.  I really don't care who's got the best selection of first growth Bordeaux, DRC, or cult cabs.  I'm familiar with Arrowine in Arlington, which I think is exactly the kind of shop I love.  Please include comments about why you like any shops you mention.

Thanks!

The First Virginia Post: 2009 Crivelli RUCHÉ DI CASTAGNOLE MONFERRATO (Piemonte, Italy)

Well, I finally have a computer and an Internet connection here, so I guess it's time for my first post.  And this wine is unique and very good.  Ruché (or Ruchet) is a varietal indigenous to Piemonte, but there are not many who grow it.  I haven't seen one since I lived in NYC in the mid-80s (from Giuseppe Scarpa), so it was a treat to see it in Arlington (and at a reasonable price).  Loads of unique fragrance, a smooth texture, and a light, refreshing feel in the mouth characterize this very food flexible wine.

Light, vivid ruby color.  The fragrance is ridiculous, bright, licorice-inflected dark plum candy fruit and a vivid cracked stone note.  Smooth, loaded with ripe, clingy fruit, but with good acidity and medium weight.  Gorgeously rich, but not heavy, plummy fruit. Not a wine to age, enjoy this over the next 12-18 months with pastas, pizza, Chinese take out, or, like I did, with take out from Crisp and Juicy, my favorite South American cheap roast chicken joint (in Arlington).  B+.  Was $15.99 at Arrowine (which is on the same block as Crisp and Juicy).  Imported by Michael R. Downey Selections of Lorton, VA.

Happy 2012 and Big Changes

In two days I will be moving from Houston to Northern Virginia to take an exciting new job.  I'll have to change the name of the wine blog, I guess, since Virginia is more of a purple state than a red state.  But having visited that area many, many times for vacations and holidays (many members of my wife's extended family are in that area), I know of several interesting wine shops and hope to discover many more.  So my plan is to keep on blogging after I get settled in.  There may be a brief (or slightly more than brief) hiatus, however, during the transition.

Best wishes to all of my blog visitors for the new year!

2010 Chateau L'Ermitage COSTIERES DE NIMES Rose (Rhone Valley, France)

A great value in a crisp, fresh, dry, flavorful rose.

Very light bubblegum pink with coppery highlights. Beautifully fruity nose of strawberry, watermelon, and crisp grapes, with a note of brothy earthiness adding some complexity.  Direct, fresh, and fairly full-bodied for a rose, yet not heavy at all.  Loads of minerally crisp cherryish fruit, and a clean, buoyant finish.  B+.  Imported by Miller Squared.  I think I got this for around $10 at Spec's on Weslayan, but I'm not 100% sure.

(Sorry: 2008 depicted)

2007 Domaine Philippe Gilbert MENETOU-SALON Rouge (Loire Valley, France

I had heard of and enjoyed red Sancerre before, but I did not know until I saw this wine that the nearby town of Menetou-Salon (known for its Sauvignon Blanc-based whites) made any red at all.  This was a very nice, lean, light, minerally Pinot Noir.

Light garnet color with some amber at the rim.  Intensely earthy/barnyardy at first, but that blew off after a while and the wine displayed classic PN scents of minerally-infused, zippy but sappy cherry fruit and dry spice cake.  Fills the mouth with flavors but feels very light on its feet, with bone-dry spiced cherry extract and a long, stony/minerally finish.  Excellent acids.  Long, clingy finish.  Very distinctive. A-.  Imported by Neal Rosenthal, I got this for about $30 at Houston Wine Merchant.

(Sorry: 2006 pictured)

2007 La Bastide Blanche BANDOL (Provence, France)

This was a classic example of a Bandol red -- deep, a little rustic in texture (from the Mourvedre) but slowly opening with air time to reveal great, earthy scents and deep flavors.  Would be fantastic with a French pot roast like a daube.

Nearly saturated black ruby with a brick tint.  Closed and unyielding at first, but after being opened a few days under  Vacu-Vin closure, it showed a very fragrant, low-toned nose of ripe berry and plum fruit, with lots of sweaty, earthy scents.  Still very tannic-feeling in the mouth, but with nicely-developed, ripe flavors of fragrant earth, spicy dark berry fruit, and a hint of minerally baker's chocolate.  Long, tannic finish.  This will keep and improve for 4-7 years in a cool cellar.  Impressive, traditionally-styled Bandol.  A.  Imported by Weygandt-Metzler, I can't remember where I got this or for how much.  Sorry!

2007 Mounts Family Winery ZINFANDEL (Dry Creek Valley)

A large-scaled, nicely-rendered Zin.  Harmonious and rich.

Dark ruby-garnet color.  Closed nose at first, but opened the second day (under a Vacu-Vin closure) to reveal lovely, sweet black raspberry scents, along with sweet wisps of high-toned woodsmoke and brown sugar.  Full-bodied, rich, and deep, with ripe, mouthcoating fruit and a subdued, earthy/minerally component that grows on the long, warm finish.  B+.  Was about $23 at Houston Wine Merchant.

2005 Chateau Caronne-Ste. Gemme HAUT-MEDOC (Bordeaux, France)

A decent, but unexciting, Bordeaux.  A little too thin and diluted for my taste.

Dark black ruby color with some brick at the rim.  Medium intensity nose of slightly scorched gravel, old cedar shavings, and a bit of bright plummy fruit.  Fades in the mouth quickly, however, ending with drying tannins and scorched mineral, brambly blackberry, and dried leave flavors.  B-.  About $20 at Spec's.  Not worth it.

2007 Dry Creek Vineyards "Old Vine" ZINFANDEL (Dry Creek Valley)

A very nicely-done, larger framed but balanced Zin.  For those who favor a lusher, richer style of Zin.

Nearly saturated black ruby color.  Rich nose of spicy blackberry syrup, and crumbling, warm sandstone.  Deep and mouthfilling, it features stone-infused dark berry fruit and a long, warm, intensely clingy finish.  Very full-bodied, but avoids being ponderous or out of balance.  A real mouthful.  B+.  This was a gift, but Spec's sells it for just under $25.

2009 Fausto ROSSO PICENO (Marche, Italy)

Rosso Piceno is the basic everyday red of the Marche region, and this one is a very direct, typical example.  It's a blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese.  Not sure of the proportions in this example.  No delusions of grandeur or pretension: just straightforward and satisfying.  And a decent value as well.

Very dark black ruby/violet.  Strong scents of pungent gravel and tangy plums, along with a hint of parmesan cheese rind.  Direct and mouthfilling.  Loads of winey berry fruit and some rustic tannin are the strongest impressions.  Good acidity too.  Medium full body.  Would work well with meat braised in tomatoes and wine, or pasta with a meat sauce.  B.  Was $13 and change at Spec's on Smith.  Imported by Angelini Selections.

2009 Domaine Notre Dame des Pallieres RASTEAU (Cotes du Rhone Villages) (France)

Needs a little time to open up, but it's a solid effort and a decent value.

Crystal clear dark ruby garnet color.  Closed the first night, with earthy, brambly scents predominating; the second night it was more friendly-smelling, with sweet baking spices, plummy dark berry fruit, crushed stone and dry gravel scents.  Soft, enveloping, warm flavors of dry blackberry and slightly scorched dry gravel.  A fair amount of tannin in the medium length, pure finish.  B.  I can't find the receipt, and can't remember where I got this, but I seem to recall it was under $15.  I'll come back and update if my memory suddenly sparks.  A Douglas Skopp Selection imported by Dionysus Imports.

(Sorry, 2004 shown)

2009 Remo Farina RIPASSO VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE (Veneto, Italy)

I previously reviewed the 2006 iteration of this wine -- which I liked a lot -- and I like this one equally.  Very favorable smell-and-flavor-to-price ratio.  Lots of bang for the buck.

Dark ruby garnet color.  Exuberant nose of almost pungent cherry and plum extract, baking spices, and crushed stone.  Intensely flavorful -- but not heavy or jammy at all -- with penetrating fruit attacking the palate.  Some fine-grained tannins give texture, with dark cherry extract fruit then turning just a tad bitter (in a good way) and earthy as the finish wore on.  Full-bodied, but with respectable acidity.  No heat at all in the long finish.  A textbook ripasso-style Valpo with loads of character.  A.  Was $18.99 at Central Market, making it a very good value.  Imported by Banville & Jones Wines.

2010 Dauvergne Ranvier LUBERON "Vin Gourmand" (Rhone Valley, France)

This was a great value.  Very old-fashioned southern Rhone flavor profile in a smooth-textured package.  A must buy for holiday parties, to have on hand when guests unexpected pop by, and for weeknight dinners.

Dark black ruby with magenta highlights.  Closed nose at first, but with air it displayed a rich, iodiney nose of dark sweet berries, baking spices, warm sandstone, and sweet cream.  Mouthfilling, with loads of texture from smooth nano-tannin, it had inky, iodine-laced dark berry syrup flavors.  Good acids for balance.  Performing way above its pay grade.  Imported by The Sorting Table, this was $10 and change at Spec's on Smith.  B+

2007 James Petit "Cuvee Ronsard" BOURGUEIL (Loire Valley, France)

A nice lighter style Loire red, its nose and flavors could not have been more cognitively dissonant.

A medium black ruby color, this wine's floral and sweet berry fruit nose suggested that this wouldn't be a typical, earthy, machine oil-tinged, bitter herbal Cab France . . . but not so!  The flavors screamed Cab Franc and had all the clingy, slightly bitter, earthy/herbal components you'd ever want, but in a lighter style, with very nice acids as well.  It went very well with a simply roasted chicken.  B.  Imported by Neal Rosenthal, this was about $22 at Spec's on Smith.

(Sorry, 2005 depicted).

2008 Chateau St. Jean de la Gineste CORBIÈRES "Vieilles Vignes" (Southern France)

A wine a geologist could love.  Wicked gravelly and stony.

Dark blackish ruby/garnet.  Intensely gravelly dark stony nose, with some dark berry fruit underneath.  Peppery, intensely stony flavors as well, with lots of cling and bite.  Good acidity and some tannic structure.  Shows loads of terroir but not a whole lot of friendly fruit.  Needs rustic food; not to be sipped by itself.  B-.  Was $11.99 at Houston Wine Merchant.  A Becky Wasserman Selection.

(Sorry, 2009 depicted)

2006 Ridge SYRAH "Lytton Estate" (Dry Creek Valley, Cal.)

Our friends the Murphys bought this at Ridge when they were out there visiting a coupla months ago, and were nice enough to share it with us recently.  It's available only at the winery or if you're a member of the Ridge "Advanced Tasting Program" (which is well-worth being on if you have the wherewithal.)

It was outstanding.  Very much a "Ridge style" wine, with great depth, length, and linear flow, without being too heavy, too jammy, too alcoholic, or too tannic.  In other words, everything in perfect balance.  Great nose of dark, ripe berries, bacon drippings, and dry gravel.  Loved it.  Perfectly mature, though seemed like it could hold for several more years.

Mom & Dad's Visit -- last coupla rounds

Mom and Dad have gone back to Massachusetts, but we went through quite a few goods wines during the last week of their visit:

2007 "Rosso del Vulcano" AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE -- This was an excellent, balanced, flavorful, traditional styled Aglianico.  Great, minerally, gravelly nose with deep winey, berry fruit.  Excellent balance and persistence.  Not too tannic and, best of all, no smell or flavors of new French oak.  ($17.99 from Houston Wine Merchant).

2009 Chateau Thivin CÔTE DE BROUILLY  -- Outstanding old school Beaujolais.  Gobs of minerally, rich, crunchy cherry fruit.  Vivacious and deep-flavored.  Smooth, clingy, and refreshing.

2009 Domaine Diochon MOULIN-À-VENT "Cuvée Vieilles Vignes" -- This wine pointedly displayed  the typical difference between the neighboring Beaujolais applelations of Moulin-á-Vent and Cote de Brouilly (or the Moulins and ANY of the other Beaujolais appellations):  The Moulins are typically earthier, larger-framed, more structured and austere, and less overtly fruity.  (This one fit the profile to a "t".)  In a word, they are -- at least to me -- more challenging to drink.  Some would argue that makes it the best Beaujolais appellation.  I just think it's different, and I usually go for the non-Moulin style when I'm considering drinking a Beaujolais. 


2009 Leitz Rudesheimer Magdalenenkreuz RIESLING Spatlese (Rheingau, Germany) -- A fantastic, more than slightly sweet Riesling, with piercing peachy, apricot fruit, coupled with intensely minerally (almost petrolly) notes, and a dark tea leaf aspect.  Fantastically balanced, with outstanding acidity and a great, pure finish.  Loved it.


2010 King Estate "Vin Glacé" RIESLING (Oregon) -- This "fake" Eiswein (the grapes were harvested late and then frozen by the winemaker and crushed, as opposed to being harvested late while frozen, then crushed) was a fantastic buy in a dessert Riesling.  Intensely fruity, with loads of pure peach/apricot fruit, a tad bit of minerality, and intense acidity adding lift to the finish.  Was about $14 for the half bottle at Spec's on Smith, making it a steal for a delicious, lighter-styled  dessert wine.


2007 Selection Laurence Féraud GIGONDAS (Rhone Valley, France) -- A classically-styled Gigondas.  Loads of herbal, austere, iodiney-minerally fruit on the nose.  Fairly full, with that classic Gigondas austere feel, but with an excellent, clingy finish.  Great with winter stews and wine-braised pot roasts.


2008 Francine et Olivier Savary CHABLIS "Selection Vieilles Vignes" (No. Burgundy, France) -- A traditionally styled, austere, earthy, straw and broth-scented Chardonnay.  Lean, penetrating, and with loads of crisp, earth-tinged, apply fruit.  Very nice.

Mom & Dad's Visit -- Round three

2009 Domaine Perraud MACON-VILLAGES "Vieilles Vignes" -- This unoaked Chardonnay was large-framed, earthy, with lots of wet straw and gravel scents, along with intense pear/apple fruit.  Very nice.

2010 Chateau Soucherie ROSE DE LOIRE "Cuvee L'Astree" -- This rose, which I believe is Cabernet Franc-based, was ridiculously crisp, fresh, floral and zesty, with excellent minerality and sweet/tart strawberry fruit.  Excellent.

2009 Three Vineyards "Old Vines Field Blend" (Contra Costa County, Cal.) -- Much bigger, riper, and in-your-face than the 2008 (which I've previously reviewed here), this wine would be an excellent choice on a cold fall or winter evening with a beef stew.

2008 Umani Ronchi LACRIMA DI MORRO D'ALBA "Fonte del Re" (Marche, Italy) -- This wine is grown in the hills where my grandfather was born, and is quite unique in its aromas and flavors.  It's got an intense, bitter dark plum/grape and licorice aroma, with a bit of dry gravelly earth, and is both mouth-filling and palate-cleansing at the same time.  Very nice accompaniment to rich, meat and tomato sauces and braises.

2002 Selbach RIESLING EISWEIN (Mosel, Germany) -- Wow.  Light tawny-copper color.  Intense, complex nose leaps out, with honey, apricot, bright citrusy acids, and sweet earth.  Utterly ridiculous in the mouth, with mouthfilling richness and honeyed, intensely sweet fruit, but juxtaposed with such vibrant intense acids that it literally makes your mouth water.  Fantastic, long finish.  In 500 ml bottle, so a little more to enjoy than the typical dessert 375.  This wine will last another several years.

Mom & Dad's visit -- next few rounds

Louis Roederer CHAMPAGNE Brut Premier -- Very nice, toasty, yeasty, apply scented, on the lighter side but with a very long, crisp finish and great persistence of bubbles.

2010 Pascal Granger "La Jacarde" BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES BLANC (!) -- A rare white Beaujolais, from Chardonnay grapes and completely unoaked.  It has a ridiculously fresh, fruity fragrance with crisp peach and ripe apple fruit, and was nicely balanced, medium-light bodied, and as fresh as cotton sheets lined-dried on a crisp, sunny fall day.  ($21 at Houston Wine Merchant).  Get this.

2008 Core GRENACHE Santa Barbara County -- Tasted like freshly crushed plum and raspberry juice.  Very unusual, but good.  After a couple of days an herbal side came out.

2008 Chono SYRAH (Elqui Valley, Chile) -- Previously reviewed here, this wine remains a fantastic value.  (Available at Houston Wine Merchant and at Central Market).

2009 August Kesseler SPATBURGUNDER (Pinot Noir) ROSE (Rheingau, Germany) -- Fragrant, with crisp, light cherry and floral fruit, and surprisingly large -framed for a German wine.  Unique and good.

2006 Ottimino ZINFANDEL "Von Weidlich Vineyard" (Russian River Valley, Cal.) -- Very elegant Zin, showing the classic profile of a Zin with some bottle age, which tends to mute the up-front fruit and bring out a brambly quality.  More depth than the previously reviewed "Ottimino Vineyard" bottling from this producer.

Mom & Dad's visit -- first few wines

Mom and Dad are down from New England for a visit, and that means breaking out some of the "non-value-oriented-stuff."  After all, they deserve it, and at their age, making the trip is pretty grueling.

2010 Cantina Terlan PINOT BIANCO (Alto Adige, Italy) -- I expected a leaner, more minerally expression of Pinot Bianco, given the climate and the vintage, but this was a bit fatter than I'm used to seeing in Italian whites, with very good, straightforward apple and slightly underripe peach fruit.

2008 Three Wine Company "OLD VINES FIELD BLEND" (Contra Costa County, Cal.) -- I previously reviewed and liked this very much, and it's still drinking really well.  Deep, soft, a little earthy, and with good weight and balance.

2009 Jakob Schneider NIEDERHAUSER HERMANNSHOHLE RIESLING SPATLESE (Nahe, Germany) -- A ridiculously pure, sweet, and crisp Riesling.  Unbelievable purity and intensity of fruit.  Sweeter and riper (seemed more like an Auslese) and would have served beautifully as a refreshing dessert wine.  As it an aperitif, which was how we drank it, it was maybe a tad too sweet for most tastes, but we all thought it was killer.

 2008 Poggio Antico ROSSO DI MONTALCINO (Tuscany, Italy) -- Very low-toned in the nose and flavors, with deep bass berry fruit buried under loads of minerally, schist-rich gravelly scents. Drinking very well now.

2009 Chateau La Tour Beraud COSTIERES DE NIMES (Southern Rhone, France)

Go to Spec's on Smith and get some of the value-priced, loaded-with-character gem!  This blend of Syrah, Grenache, Marselan (a grape that is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache), and Mourvedre was intensely-flavored, balanced, and very old school in style, with lots of earthy, iodiney notes augmenting the spicy fruit.

Dark black ruby with a bit of magenta-tinting.  Intense nose of tangy blackberry and boysenberry fruit, accented with quite a snootful of iodine-infused dark stony gravel scents.  Intensely clingy, dark flavors of deeply-roasted herbs, slightly bitter blackberry extract, and scorched, iodiney earth.  Full-bodied, but with good overall balance.  This is a muscular, old-fashioned style Southern Rhone with lots of oomph but in a slightly more civilized frame than you'd expect.  A-.  Was $13 and change at Spec's on Smith.  Imported by Rhone specialist J&R Selections.