2010 Bodegas Olarra RIOJA CRIANZA "Cerro Anon" (Spain)

This is probably the cheap wine value of 2012.  I like it even better than its more expensive, older sibling, which I reviewed a couple of weeks ago.  This is akin to a balanced, soft, deep, very drinkable non-oaky Cabernet from California (or a newer style Bordeaux).

Deep, intensely red ruby color.  Deep and pure on the nose, with very ripe, rich cherry/berry fruit, augmented with very subtle smoky gravelly quality.  Ripe, pure, soft and intense on the attack, with excellent balance, and good cling.  This would pair well with lots of foods, and is also really nice on its own.  A-.  This was ... wait for it ... $9.99 from WTSO.com.  If and when they list it again, get some.    Imported by Classic Wines, Stamford, CT.

2005 Bodegas Olarra "Cerro Anon" RIOJA RESERVA (Spain)

I haven't had a good Rioja in a while.  I like them, but the old style, with its heavy-handed use of American oak, always leaves me wondering what the heck to eat with it.  This one is very good, but it shows the heavy oak.

Very dark, surprisingly youthful color: very dark ruby violet.  Intense concentrated cherry extract fruit on the nose, but it's in neck-and-neck competition with intensely -- almost resiny -- oakiness.  Youthful-tasting as well, with bring, penetrating flavors of  dark cherry, liquid graphite, and some intense oakiness.  Full-bodied, and with a nice freshness in the finish, this wine still has some youthfully tight, fine-grained tannin.  This will age slowly and nicely for at least another 5 years.  B+ if you are an admirer of this style.  Was $12.99 from WTSO.com, making it an excellent value.  Imported by Classic Wines, Stamford, CT.

2009 ZESTOS (Madrid, Spain)

This 50% Garnacha, 50% Tempranillo was grown just outside of Madrid, and is a fantastic value. It's got gorgeously fresh fruit, good concentration, and great balance.

Youthful dark black ruby. Vivid dark cherry/berry aromas leap from the glass, mixed with stones and baby powder. Lively, rich fruit attacks the palate, with excellent ripeness and acid balance juxtaposing body and freshness. Some refined tannin adds textural interest. Very direct and satisfying. I would be very hard-pressed to think of a better value in a weekday dinner (or casual party) wine. B+. Was $7.99 at World Marketplace at Richmond and West Loop. Imported by Patrick Mata's Olé Imports.

2008 Verasol "Tn" Tempranillo (Navarra, Spain)

Like a cloying version of a Spanish Beaujolais.

Vibrant dark ruby color with a hint of violet. Loud, massively fruity nose of amplified blackberry and boysenberry. Gobs of straightforward, ripe, slightly tangy fruit. Some minerality makes itself known in the back of the mouth. Low acid, soft, and full-bodied. Simple, flavorful, and satisfying in a dufus-y way. 82. Was $12.99 at Whole Foods on Bellaire. Imported by Jose Pastor Selections.

2008 ElementOs 70% Tempranillo/30% Garnacha (Calatayud, Spain)

A ridiculous bargain! A soft, well-made, flavorful red with a bit of complexity for $5.99? Pretty darn rare. I bought this to cook with and ended up drinking most of it.

Dark ruby color. Youthful nose of blueberries, cinnamon, and coffee. Mouthfilling clean blackberry fruit augmented with stony minerals. Pure-tasting, decently long finish, with good balancing acidity. 87. $5.99 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

(Sorry -- couldn't find a photo.)

2005 "Volver" (100% Tempranillo) (La Mancha, Spain)

I'm usually not a huge Tempranillo fan, but this really impressed me.

Completely saturated, youthful ruby/violet color. With air, the nose displayed a lovely combination of sweet baking spices and vanilla, along with ripe raspberry syrup and gravel. Ripe, mouthfilling, and still a bit tannic, the flavors started off with dense, rich fruit (blackberry and blueberry) but then tapered off into a lean, long iodine and dry berry extract finish. Lots of alcohol, acidity, and structure. A large-scale, formidable wine. Still could use a year or two of cellaring, at which point it may be even better. 89+. Was a great buy at $14.88 at Whole Foods on Bellaire. Imported by Jorge Ordonez Selections.

2005 Montebuena RIOJA (Spain)

This was a very straightforward, middle-of-the-road red. It's hard to get up any emotion to write about.

Had a nice, vibrant dark ruby color. Pleasant, low intensity nose of crushed, nameless berries. Medium-bodied, decently balanced and structured, but really devoid of any interesting flavors in the mouth. The finish consists more of the feeling of the physical structure of the wine than any memorable flavors. Quintessentially forgettable. 70. Was $14.99 at Whole Foods.

2005 "Venta la Ossa" (La Mancha, Spain)

This wine was done in what is euphemistically called the "international style" -- which some critics call "spoofulated." It usually signals a wine made in a very ripe style and aged in lots of new french oak. Almost invariably, regardless of the varietal, it ends up tasting to some degree like an oaky Merlot. Usually, I'm not crazy for this style. And although this wine was made in that style . . . it nevertheless was a very tasty and pleasurable Tempranillo.

Eye: Fully saturated impenetrable black color with ruby purple highlights.

Nose: Extremely rich, oaky nose with lots of fresh ground coffee notes, dark chocolate, fresh bread, and, oh yeah, some ripe fruit underneath all that.

Mouth: Huge, ripe, mouthfilling oaky flavors coat the palate. Not much, if any complexity, but doesn't skimp on flavor and has lots of "oomph." Long, oaky, peppery blackberry juice finish.

Score: 89.

Cellar or drink? Drink over the next year, as it is my experience that whatever fruit is there will be dwarfed by the oak pretty soon.

Price/store: $13 and change at Spec's on Smith.

2005 Cortijo III Rioja (Spain)

Like the 2004, the 2005 version of this Rioja reminded me of a Beaujolais.

Medium dark ruby with magenta at the rim. Very nice, straightforward nose of ripe berries and fur. Clean, focused fruit in the mouth, with a nice, stony-minerally component. Good persistence. Based on the 2004 and 2005, I'm guessing that this winery goes in for carbonic maceration fermentation -- like they use in Beaujolais -- for all or at least part of the fruit for this wine. Good value, and would match well with a wide variety of foods. I'm not sure, but I think I got this at Central Market for about $7 or $8. 86.