2011 Tilia BONARDA (Mendoza, Argentina)

This is a terrific value.  Vibrant, loaded with fruit, and balanced.  Buy cases of this to have on-hand for cookouts this upcoming summer (if it ever gets here).

Very dark, blackish ruby.  Fantastically lively nose with loads of bright, ripe raspberries and mixed red berries, along with rock dust.  The attack is intensely fruity, with excellent concentration.  Lots of pure dark and red fruits in the mouth, turning a bit minerally as the finish progresses.  A fair amount of soft tannin gives some structure.  It's not complex, but it's very flavorful and nicely-textured.  B+.  Was $7.99 from Winex.com.  Imported by Winebow, Inc., NYC.

PS, note that Bonarda in Argentina isn't the same thing as Bonarda in Italy.  It's actually the grape called Charbono in this country.

2010 Viejo Isaias Clasico BONARDA (Mendoza, Argentina)

Typical modern "international style" red.  Big, fleshy, extracted, and oaky . . . but it's almost impossible to tell what is is and where it's from.

Almost fully-saturated black ruby.  Oaky nose, featuring loads of baker's chocolate and some jammy dark berry fruit underneath.  Dark, chocolatey flavors as well.  In terms of flavor intensity, there's a lot here, but it tastes more like some labor-intensive mocha drink from Starbucks than a Bonarda (which should have loads of red berry fruit and good acids).  If you like the oaky, way ripe, very extracted "international style," you'll like this more than I did.  To me, this is a C+.  Was $9.99 at the Clarendon-area Whole Foods in Arlington.  Imported by Kysela Pere et Fils. 

2008 Durigutti BONARDA (Mendoza, Argentina)

Bonarda is a grape native to northwest Italy, in the Novara region, where it typically is blended with Nebbiolo (Spanna) in several of the DOC wines of the area (like Ghemme, Boca, Fara, etc.).  On its own there, it's no great shakes, but in the Mendoza region of Argentina it seems to have more character.  This one is a very good, flavor-filled everynight dinner wine, and an excellent value.

Very vivid, dark ruby/violet.  Vivacious nose of tangy plum and mixed berry fruit, along with loads of chalky rock dust and a high-toned smoky component.  Richly-fruited in the mouth, yet with a vibrancy that buoys up its full-bodied frame.  Loads of rich, earthy, dry dark berry fruit fills the mouth, and leads to a long, clean, clingy finish with some noticeable but soft tannin.  Not super complex, but very satisfying.  B+.  Will go with lots of pastas and Italian meat dishes, stews, and braises.  Was $11 and change at Spec's on Smith.

UPDATE (11/28/11):  I just read somewhere that Argentine Bonarda is NOT the same thing as the Bonarda grown in the Novara region of Italy, but, in fact, is the Charbono grape native to the Savoie region of France.  Well, I guess that would explain why Argentine Bonarda tastes and feels very different from its Italian namesake. 

2010 Crios ROSÉ OF MALBEC (Mendoza, Argentina)

A bruiser of a rosé, but in a good way.


Very dark (for a rosé) cherry/watermelon color.  Deep nose of cherry and watermelon juice (I'm not just getting lazy here, it really did look and smell like cherry and watermelon) along with powdered rock dust.  Intensely flavored (almost overwhelmingly so for a rosé) with cherry/mineral flavors.  Lots of body too.  It's a rosé that drinks like a red, is what it is.  Clean. long, minerally finish with some (barely) perceptible residual sugar.  Not a lot of finesse, but a lot of oomph.  Put a good chill on it or it will be cloying, but with that good chill it's a B+.  Got this as a gift, so I don't know the price, but an Internet search reveals that most places sell this for around $10, making it a good value.  

2006 La Posta BONARDA "Estela Armando Vineyard" (Mendoza, Argentina)

Bonarda -- a grape that takes a back seat to Nebbiolo in the Novara area of Piemonte in Italy -- can produce wines of greater depth and distinction in Argentina. This Bonarda proves the point.

Fully saturated violet-tinged dark ruby. Lively and ripe nose -- sweet, smoky gravel, and lots of ripe blackberry fruit. Medium-full to full bodied, it has an intense initial attack of minerally blackberry fruit, which morphs quickly into a sequential parade of mixed berry extracts that clings to the palate. Lots and lots of youthful tannin to resolve, but it's not too rough to enjoy now. 88. Very nice value at $14 at the new Spec's at Weslayan and Bissonnet.

2006 Finca Flichman MALBEC (Mendoza, Argentina)

Call this ridiculous value "Recession Red." $4.99 for a solid, well-made red with some real character.

Dark ruby garnet. Interesting nose of plums, sweet lemon juice, and angel food cake crust. Medium full-bodied, with medium intensity flavors of blackberry, brambly earth, and minerals, with a long, dry, slightly tannic finish. Drink over the next year. 86. Got is, as I said, for $4.99 on sale at Fiesta (Old Spanish Trail and Kirby), but I think the regular price is $5.99, which still qualifies as an excellent value.

(Sorry -- 2008 pictured).

2007 Terrazas de los Andes MALBEC (Mendoza, Argentina)

Pretty good Malbec, with this varietal's trademark coarseness pretty well in check.

Very dark, mulled ruby color. Lots of ripe, plummy-blackberry fruit in the nose, with a sweet, earthy/woody note. Rich, deep-toned flavors, nice ripeness, with lots of tannic structure, veering over only slightly to the coarse side. Would be very good with rich stews and braises, which would tend to smooth out the tannins. 87. Got this at Whole Foods on Bellaire, I think, for around $14.

2006 Navarro Correas SYRAH "Coleccion Privada" (Mendoza, Argentina)

This was a complex, balanced red at a reasonable price.

Fairly deep color. Needed a couple hours of air to unwind, but then displayed a nice nose of hot, smoky gravel and plummy, blackberryish fruit. Broad and mouthfilling, this wine had full body, lots of rich red fruit and mineral flavors, and gobs of soft tannin. It'll keep for a couple of years, but was very nice last weekend with "Matambre" (an Argentine butterflied, stuffed, rolled, braised flank steak -- yummy). 87. Was about $12 at Kroger's on Westpark.

2005 Tikal "PATRIOTA" (60% Bonarda, 40% Malbec) (Mendoza, Argentina)

This was a very interesting red. The nose promised great weight and ripeness, but in the mouth it was leaner and crisper than expected, although still quite flavorful. It would pair very well with very rich braised meat dishes such as oxtails, beef or lamb shanks, or tripe.

Eye: Saturated ruby purple color.

Nose: Rich, deeply fruity nose of sweet cassis and very ripe raspberries, with a prominent smoky, gravelly component.

Mouth: Ripe and full, yet somewhat lean, with good weight and broad flavors of dry, ripe, blackberry extract and crushed stones. Long, lean, crisp finish. Would have been amazing with just a tad less acidity and tad more flesh.

Score: 89.

Cellar or drink? This wine's concentration indicates that a few more years of ageing may improve this wine a bit, though I have found that wines with high (as opposed to moderate) acidity like this one really don't fare well with longer term ageing.

Price/store: Was $23.78 at Spec's on Westheimer.

2005 Salentein MALBEC (Mendoza, Argentina)

This was a very nicely-crafted red. Soft, rich, and complex.

Eye: Completely saturated dark ruby-purple.

Nose: Intense and complex nose of minerally gravel, lemon juice, and ripe blackberries.

Mouth: Full-bodied, with complex flavors of coffee, cassis, blackberry, and peppery iodine. Lots of medium-soft tannins in the lengthy, minerally finish.

Score: 89.

Cellar or drink? Drink over the next 3-5 years.

Price/store: This was a gift, but Spec's lists this for $19.

Vacation wines -- Day 7

2005 Herdade das Servas "Monte das Servas" (Alentejano, Portugal) -- This wine was extraordinarily soft and velvety textured, with nicely integrated red berry fruit and cigar box scents. I liked it a lot.

2006 Altos las Hormigas Malbec Reserva (Mendoza, Argentina) -- A dense, ripe, highly extracted and very tannic Malbec. My brother Angy liked it a lot more than I did, as I thought the level of tannins was a bit over the top.

Dinner: Beef Stew "in the Italian fashion" with lots of red wine and tomatoes.

2005 Pascual Toso CABERNET SAUVIGNON "Reserve" Las Barrancas Vineyards (Mendoza, Argentina)

A complex, generous, high-class, good-value Cabernet.

Eye: Fully saturated black/blood red color.

Nose: Incredibly rich nose of ripe cassis, blackberry, chocolate, roasted coffee beans, and crushed stones.

Mouth: Soft and very full-flavored, with rich blackberry fruit and lots of dark chocolatey notes, as well as loads of metallic minerals, particularly in the finish (which is long, long!) Substantial tannin, but it's soft, so it doesn't detract from immediate drinking pleasure.

Score: 90.

Cellar or drink? This will certainly last for another several years, although its flavors are so open and inviting now, I can't see it developing additional nuances.

Price/store: Was $15 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

2006 Viña Antigua SANGIOVESE-BONARDA (Maipu, Argentina)

This was a great value in a super-cheap red.

Eye: Medium ruby garnet color.

Nose: Needs time to open up, but once it does it displays a nice nose of sweet plums, lemon custard, and spiced, sweet apple wood.

Mouth: Medium-bodied, balanced flavors of smoky cherries and earth, with a surprisingly long (for the price), pure finish.

Score: 88.

Cellar or drink? Drink over the next year.

Price/Store: $5.24 at Spec's stores.

2006 Pascual Toso MALBEC (Maipu Vineyards, Mendoza, Argentina)

An outstanding value, this wine had loads of flavor for under $10.

Color: Dense purple-tinged ruby.

Nose: Interesting nose of buttered wheat toast, gravel, and ripe plums and cassis.

Mouth: Round, ripe, soft, and concentrated. Persistent flavors of blackberries and sandstone. Full-bodied, with a long, balanced finish, and lots of soft, ripe tannin.

Cellar or drink?: Drinking very well now, but will age nicely for the next three years or so.

Score: 90.

Price/store: Was $9 and change at Spec’s on Westheimer.

2006 Doña Paula MALBEC "Los Cardos" (Mendoza, Argentina)

This was a very ripe, well-balanced red with a lot of character.

Saturated black ruby/mulberry color. The nose needs a lot of air time to develop, but then displays deep fruit (crushed, oozing blackberries, sweet cream, coffee and balsa wood. Rich, spicy black raspberry fruit, with a smokey granite component as well. Full-bodioes and mouthfilling. Substantial tannin in the finish, but it's relatively ripe for Malbec. Reminded me of a very ripe, old vine Zin from Contra Costa County like Rosenblum or Cline make. Very nice. 89. Was about $14 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

2005 La Posta MALBEC "Pizzella Family Vineyard" (Mendoza, Argentina)

Avoid this one. Earthy, sour, old leather nose. Tart, overly earthy and leathery flavors. Very austere. 70.

2005 Trumpeter Mendoza TORRONTES (Argentina)

Torrontes is a white varietal that is a specialty of Argentina. I view it as a poor man's Viognier because it has lots of tropical fruit scents, fairly full body, yet falls apart within one to two years.

This one is very inexpensive, but not bad. Bright, crystalline light brassy-gold. Very fruity nose of tropical fruit (mango?), with apple and ruby red grapefruit scents as well. Medium bodied, with lots of up-front fruit and fruit-pit flavors, with citrusy notes. Fades fast in the mid-palate, however. Short, clean finish. 82. Was $7 at Spec's on Westheimer (near Fogo de Chao).

2005 Vida Organica MALBEC (Mendoza, Argnetina)

This is a ridiculous bargain. A $4.99 organic red that's cleanly made and fun to drink. Medium deep plum color. On the nose, it's plummy, with sweet cream and scorched earth notes. Soft, fruity, and leathery flavors, with a soft, medium-light bodied gulpable texture. Not very concentrated but open, friendly, and fun to drink, so who cares? Consider this a Beaujolais substitute at half the price of a good Beaujolais. Great for parties, summer cook-outs (go ahead and chill it a bit!), and pizza time. Got it on sale at Whole Foods on Bellaire for $4.-friggin-99. 85.

Easter Dinner/Wines

We had our Easter dinner Saturday evening, so our guests the Hughens, who were in from Austin, could get back at a reasonable hour on Sunday. The tasting notes are from memory, since I didn't do anything but enjoy the food, wine, and company on Saturday. We had these wines with Oma's Egyptian Lamb, the recipe for which follows the tasting notes.

2005 Vida Organica Malbec Rose (Mendoza, Argentina) -- I think I previously reviewed (and definitely remember liking) the 2004 version of this wine, and this one is just as good. Fresh nose of strawberry and cherry fruit, with a tad of earthiness too -- unusual for a rose. Great balance, and clean, refreshing flavors. Very nicely done dry rose for drinking throughout the summer months ahead. Was about $8 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

2000 Tardieu-Laurent Cotes du Rhone "Guy Louis" -- Tardieu-Laurent is probably THE best negociant in the south of France, in my view. Their wines are always more expensive in every appellation, but are frequently so far superior to the competition (particularly in the less prestigious appellations) so as to warrant the extra cost. This wine was amazing, and not only would blow away almost any other Cotes du Rhone I've had in the last 20 years, but also most regular Chateauneuf-du-Papes as well. Remarkable nose of rich blackberry, cassis, incense and earthy-iodine scents. Still young in the mouth, with some tannic structure for a few more years' development (if you've got a cellar or good temperature controlled wine storage unit -- I don't). Great length and concentration. I think I paid about $24 a couple of years ago for this, but Specs on Smith still has some left, albeit at $29 now.

Recipe for "Egyptian Lamb" -- This is a recipe I got from Liz's mom, and it's become our Easter tradition. We had it yesterday with the wines listed above. It results in a well-done roast (not rare, so beware), but it's very flavorful and moist. The presentation is nice because you've got a leg of lamb surrounded by neat piles of many different-colored roasted veggies, all of whose flavors have mingled with the roast juices.

1 6 to 8 lb. leg of lamb
1 large clove garlic (crushed)
2 onions or leeks, roughly minced
1 lb green beans
2-4 eggplants, depending on size (I like smaller ones), cut into 1" cubes
1 1/2 lbs zucchini, cut in half, lengthwise, then into 1/2 " slices
2 green bell peppers
3-4 tomatoes, cut into large chunks
1/2 teas. marjoram
2 bay leaves
2 tblsp. chopped parsley
3 tblsp. tomato paste
oregano (dried)
salt, pepper

Preheat over to 450. Bone leg of lamb. Rub lamb all over with crushed garlic. Sprinkle and rub in salt, pepper, and oregano. (Optionally, then put bone back in and tie meat up around it since bones add flavor).

Allow 30 minutes per pound total cooking time. Place leg in a LARGE roasting pan in oven, and roast at high heat for 20 minutes or so. Then reduce heat to 325. When you've got about 2 1/2 hours to go (which may be right away if you've got a smaller leg), add the onions or leeks, and soften them in the roast juices for 10 minutes or so. While that's going on, parboil the green beans in 1 cup water, reserving the water. Push the onions/leeks into a pile, then add the green beans and all the other veggies, in separate mounds surrounding the leg. Season with salt and pepper. Add marjoram, bay leaves, and parsley. Dissolve tomato paste in reserved green bean water, and pour over all veggies.

Roast, uncovered, until lamb is done, basting occasionally.

Carve into thick slices and arrange on plates with desired veggies. Spoon on pan juices.

VARIATIONS: Yesterday, I tried a few variations, and we all liked them. First, instead of rubbing with one clove of garlic, I pressed three finely chopped cloves of garlic into the meat (both outside and inside where I replaced and tied in the bone). Second, instead of oregano, marjoram, and bay leaf, I used the leaves of several sprigs of fresh rosemary, again, pressed into the meat. Third, I've taken to using Indian eggplant (available at Fiesta near Reliant Stadium). They're smaller (about the size of an egg), firmer, and have a better flavor than the big spongy monstrosities that pass for regular eggplant these days.

2004 Viña Antigua Sangiovese/Bonarda (Maipu, Argentina)

For the second year in a row, this is a tremendous buy in a dirt-cheapo red. I reviewed the 2003 here, and this wine is just as good, at least.

Medium ruby-garnet color. Bright cherry-strawberry aromas in the nose, with crusty bread in the background. Vibrant cherry and mineral flavors, with medium body, good acidity, and a fairly long finish. A great value at $4.20 at Spec's. Reminiscent of a good entry level Chianti, but at 1/2 to 1/3 the price. 85.