2008 Joseph Drouhin BEAUNE PREMIER CRU (Burgundy, France)

This is from purchased (not estate) grapes.  Made from a mixture of vineyards that are all premier cru level.  This is a delicate yet persistent rendition of a Pinot Noir.

Light ruby garnet color.  Delicate but interesting nose of ripe cherry extract with a slightly sour note, enveloped in warm, earthy, gravelly scents.  Lithe in the mouth, bone dry flavors of earthy, winey cherries and loads of minerals immediately hit the palate, but in a very light framework.  Very linear, the wine stays light and almost ethereal in texture yet the flavors linger.  A wee bit of tannin adds a physical presence.  Drinking really well now (though it likes air: it was better the second night after being under  a Vacu-Vin enclosure), I think this will last another 1 to maybe 3 years.  B+.  Was $29.99 from WTSO.com, so not that great a bargain relative to other wines, but a good bargain as compared to usually fairly expensive Joseph Drouhin wines.

Three wines and lots of guests

We had people over for dinner Saturday and Sunday, so with all the talking and laughing etc., I didn't get to do detailed notes, but here are my impressions of three of the wines we popped.

2010 Domaine Vignaud CHABLIS PREMIER CRU Fourchaume -- Nice, minerally, brothy nose.  Nice entry, but then lean and a little hollow at present in the mid-palate.  Finishes with lots of clean, limestoney minerals in the finish.  Will be better in 2-4 years.

2005 Chateau Lascombes MARGAUX -- Much better than it was two years ago when I opened my first bottle.  Starting to develop some complexity, with the California-like primary fruit and oak I thought dominated the first bottle I popped a couple of years ago starting to subside and beginning to develop into a more sophisticated Bordeaux cedary character.  Very long finish.  Another wine that will be better still in 2-5 years.  Too bad that was my last bottle.  Paired well with Saturday's grilled steaks.

2006 Paul Pillot CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET PREMIER CRU CLOS SAINT JEAN (Rouge) -- a gorgeous, fully mature red burgundy.  Resiny cherry fruit, along with loads of gravelly minerals.  Leaner style, with very good acids.  Very nice with Coq au Vin.

2008 Domaine Dublere VOLNAY 1er CRU LES PITURES (Burgundy, France)

This is a complex, leaner styled Burgundy.  Fragrant, balanced.  All it lacks is a little more oomph in the mid-palate.

Medium ruby color with garnet highlights, and some browning at the rim.  With air, the nose reveals multiple scents:  ripe yet slightly sour cherry, pleasantly subdued woody notes, damp, gravelly earth, maple syrup.  Initially fills the mouth, then leans out quickly, but minerally, sour cherry syrup notes cling in the finish.  A very nice wine to have with a roast chicken.  Drink up over the next 18 months.  B+.  Imported by Chelsea Ventures, Chicago, this was $29.99 from Flickingerwines.com.

2008 Bader-Mimeur CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET Rouge "Chateau de Chassagne-Montrachet" (Burgundy, France)

Tight, tight, tight!  This wine is very youthful and tightly-wound, but contains all the elements to become a very good Pinot in 2-4 years.

Bright medium ruby with the beginnings of some garnet.  Very shy nose (even when poured through a Vinturi).  Just a few subtle scents come through:  crisp, just-picked cherry and stony minerals, with a lifted floral element.  Bone dry, crisp (mouthwatering acids) and lightly tannic in the mouth. Fairly full body.  Lots of cherry-skin fruit and lean, stony minerals in the mouth.  Clean, medium-long finish.  This just needs time to shine (at least a couple of years).  For now, B.  In a few years, probably higher.  Was $24.99 from WTSO.com.  Imported by MHW, Ltd., Manhasset, NY.

2010 Henri Boillot BOURGOGNE ROUGE (Burgundy, France)

I wanted to open this too-young half bottle of plain ol' generic Burgundy from a good producer close on the heels of the Louis Latour Corton I just panned to make sure I wasn't being too harsh on the Corton.  I wasn't.  This is very good, though too young.  The Corton is crap by comparison.

Medium dark, youthful ruby.  Still developing nose, but showing snappy aromas of sappy cherries, lemons, and clean stoniness.  Incredibly young in the mouth, but with lots of still-angular dark cherry skins and an intense amount of clean powdered stony minerality that clings to the sides of the mouth.  Crisp acids.  Not that much tannin.  This wine is very nice now if you appreciate wines in their extreme youthful state, but will be way better in a couple of years.  B.  Was $9.99 for a 375 ml (half bottle) from Flickinger Wines, Chicago.  Imported by Chelsea Ventures, Chicago.

2007 Louis Latour CORTON (Burgundy, France)

This wine embodies what is wrong with Burgundy.  Even discounted to $39 from $50, it is a mediocre, characterless wine that had no business being sold under a Grand Cru appellation, and even if it were declassified, as it should have been, to a generic Bourgogne and sold for $15, it wouldn't have been a repeat purchase.  Burgundy, unfortunately, is filled with wines like this, as soulless producers, in the name of making money, denigrate the amazing terroir and grapes God blessed them with.

Listless pale brick/ruby.  Weak nose of some vaguely old cherry fruit, some mineral, and dried leaves.  Lean and diluted in the mouth, with weak, drying flavors of bitter cherry.  No finish whatsoever.  D.  Avoid.

2008 Domaine Dublere SAVINGY-LES-BEAUNE "Les Planchots du Nord" (Burgundy, France)

A shockingly light-colored wine, but with real fragrance and flavor.  A very good value Pinot Noir from the largely overpriced Burgundy region.

Very light garnet color -- almost like an old, oak-aged rose would look.  Scents of minerally cherries and fresh-baked honey whole wheat bread.  Lively, medium-light bodied flavors have surprising intensity, tenaciously clinging to the palate with earthy, crisp cherries.  Long, vivacious finish, with good acidity.  It's a unique style of Pinot Noir.  It went very well with whole wheat macaroni with cheese and bacon, and would also do nicely with tomato-less chicken dishes.  B+.  Was about $22 on sale from Flickinger Wines, Chicago.  Imported by Chelsea Ventures, Chicago.

2009 Domaine Mazilly Pere & Fils BEAUNE 1er CRU "VIGNES FRANCHES" (Burgundy, France)

This is an energetic, electric Pinot Noir that is way too young to drink now.  It deserves at least 2-3 years to settle down and mellow and fill out, but make no mistake, it's really nice right now if you like your PNs zingy and youthful.

Bright, crystalline dark ruby.  Piercing nose of crisp, tangy, ripe cherries, stony minerals, brown sugar, and a whiff of fruitcake.  An intense, linear streak of minerally cherries with a hint of dry barnyard gravel hits the palate immediately.  There's a bit of tannin and zesty acids to keep the vigorous sensations going.  Long, lean, clean finish.  Very, very good.  An A- now, this has the potential to be an "A" in 3-5 years.  Was $26.99 from WTSO.com, making it a bargain for a premier cru Beaune of this quality!  Imported by MHW, Ltd., Manhasset, NY.

(Sorry, 2008 depicted)

2009 Domaine Antonin Rodet RULLY "Chateau de Rully" (Southern Burgundy, France)

A decent Pinot Noir, but not worth the price (a statement I find myself making time after time about moderately-priced Burgundies).

Medium ruby/garnet color that looks too advanced for a 3-year old PN.  Nose of dry leaves, scorched earth, and some vaguely cherryish scents.  Dry, dessicated flavors are uncharacteristically austere for an '09.  Nothing wrong with it, but highly-disappointing for a $20 wine.  When it comes to red burgundies, I'm like a dysfunctional addict.  I keep going back, trying to find one I'll really like, only to be disappointed time and time again.  C.  Was $19.99 at Total Wine in McLean.  Imported by Boisset America.

2007 Louis Jadot SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE PREMIER CRU "LA DOMINODE" (Red Burgundy, France)

Not worth the $30 price or up to the premier cru pedigree.  Too thin and angular.

Medium light ruby garnet.  Medium intensity nose of tart, wild cherry fruit and pungent crushed stones, with a hint of freshly-baked bread.  Loose, somewhat diluted flavors of sharp, bone dry, winey cherry fruit and dry, stony minerals, with a squeeze of lemon rind.  Good acidity, a little bit of tannin.  A bit of bitterness in the disappointingly short finish.  This wouldn't be worth complaining about if it were a $15 generic Bourgogne Rouge, but at double that price and from a premier cru vineyard, disappointing.  B-.  Was $30 and change at Spec's on Smith.

2010 Domaine Balandras MÂCON-SERRIÈRES "Les Gravières" (Red!) (Southern Burgundy, France)

A very fun 100% Gamay red from the Mâcon region, which is almost exclusively known for its inexpensive whites from the Chardonnay grape.  Consider it a nice, but obscure, alternative to Beaujolais (which is the adjoining region known for its reds).


Dark ruby garnet color.  Direct, crushed rock-infused crisp dark cherry and grape aromas.  Lively, medium-bodied and flavorful, this wine isn't very concentrated or complex, but balanced, crisp, and untiring to drink.  Lots of crisp, dark cherry flavors.  Clean, medium long finish.  When you are in the mood for a refreshing wine to have with dinner, this is a great choice.  Will go well with a wide range of dishes.  B.  Imported by Fruit of the Vines.  I can't find the receipt for this one.  I think I may have gotten it for about $15 at Central Market, but don't quote me on that.


(Sorry - 2005 depicted).

Cheap Bourgogne Rouge Death Match (Bout 2)

On the next card we have Domaine Pierre Labet (one of Spec's featured producers) versus the ubiquitous house of Louis Latour.

First Place:  2008 Domaine Pierre Labet Bourgogne Pinot Noir "Vieilles Vignes" -- Medium light ruby.  Medium intensity nose of sappy, sour cherries and sweet, moist, smoky earth.  Bone dry, but with decent concentration of fruit in the mid-palate, along with a pronounced stony minerality.  Thins out a bit on the finish, but is clean and quite pleasant.  Still a bit of tannin showing.  Drink with the next 18 months. B.  Imported by Horizon Wines, Houston.  Was $19 and change at most Spec's stores.


Second Place:  2009 Louis Latour Bourgogne Pinot Noir -- Medium light ruby color.  Shy but fresh nose of sour cherry and minerals, with some lemon coated rock dust.  Crisp, very light flavors of vague cherry fruit and brambly twigs quickly spread through the mouth but thin out quickly.  Some tannin but not much weight of flavor concentration.  This wine has a bitterness that grows as the finish wears on.  C.   $16 and change at most Spec's stores (and lots of other places).



Moral of the Two Deathmatches:  This Burgundian throwdown nicely displayed the difficult reality of searching for bargain Burgundian Pinot Noirs:  the ones that are worth it (like the '09 Bertrand Ambroise) are few and far between.  Many are OK, but I'm usually left wishing I had spent my $15-20 on a Chianti Classico, a Cotes du Rhone, a Zinfandel, a Spanish Grenache, or a small grower Beaujolais-Villages.

Cheap Bourgogne Rouge Death Match

Since I wasn't able to do my Cotes du Rhone battle royale, when recent guests gifted me with a Joseph Drouhin "LaForet" Bourgone Pinot Noir -- a widely-available, reasonably-priced red burgundy -- I decided to pick two more at around the same price and open all three entry-level French PNs all at once.

The result:  CHEAP BURGUNDY DEATH MATCH.  I picked up the equally-widely-available and reasonably priced Louis Jadot Bourgogne, and, to throw in a David with these commercial Goliaths, a Bourgogne Rouge from the relatively smaller producer, Bertrand Ambroise.  Here are the results.

1st Place:  2009 Bertrand Ambroise Bourgogne -- The nose was very youthful, like it had just been bottled, but it had more body and flavor than the other two.  Bright ruby with magenta highlights.  Big, youthful nose of concentrated, crushed cherry and pomegranate, along with rock dust and grated lemon zest.  Youthful and mouthfilling (for a Bourgogne) with tightly wound black cherry and brambly earth flavors.  Fine-grained tannin coats the mouth as the clingy finish wears on.  This will keep and improve over the next three years.  B(+) (which means it's a B right now, but with age should get better).  Imported by Robert Kacher.  $19 and change at Spec's on Smith.

2nd Place:  2008 Joseph Drouhin "Laforet" Bourgone Pinot Noir -- This was more developed in the nose, and had nice, correct Pinot flavors, but was a little light.  Medium-light ruby showing a little amber hue.  Bright nose of pure, sappy, crisp cherries and a hint of stoniness.  Bright cherry fruit at first impression in the mouth, followed by some light but kind of coarse tannin.  Clean, but short and thin finish.  This is a pleasant wine but needs drinking up over the next 6 months.  B-.  Imported by Dreyfus-Ashby, it sells for $16 and change at Spec's.


3rd Place:  2008 Louis Jadot Bourgogne Pinot Noir -- This was light on the nose, light and somewhat lacking in life in the mouth, but had a clean finish.  Bright, medium ruby.  Relatively closed nose reluctantly gives up scents of tart cherry candy and chalk.  Correct but somewhat flat cherry flavors, but diluted-tasting.  Clean, medium length finish.  Drink over the next 12-18 months.  C+.  Imported by Kobrand, it was $17 and change at Spec's.

2008 Domaine d'Ardhuy LADOIX "Chagnots" (Burgundy, France)

One of my two "Holy Grails" of wine is a good, inexpensive (which these days means under $20) red burgundy (Pinot Noir).  This is one.  On the leaner side but with real character, particularly the second night.  The village of Ladoix is one of those less well-known "sleeper" appellations in Burgundy (along with Santenay, Auxey-Duresses, and Pernand-Vergelesses) where values, as rare as they are there, tend to be more frequent.

Light ruby color with a touch of amber beginning to show at the rim.  Fragrant, high-toned nose of peat and ripe but crisp crushed cherry, along with stony gravel.  Crisp, penetrating flavors of tart cherry, with powdered limestone and granite.  Not a lot of concentration or weight, but clingy flavors and very nice purity, energy, and minerality.  Good length. B+.   Was $19 and change at Spec's (cash price).  A Becky Wasserman Selection (she represents several excellent French estates, as an exporter I think, and her selections are imported by various importers in different regions of the U.S.)

2008 Jean & Gilles Lafouge AUXEY-DURESSES 1er CRU "LES DURESSES" (Burgundy, France)

One of the best under $30 Burgundian Pinot Noirs I've had in many years.  A high energy wine.


Light ruby garnet color.  Gorgeous, high-toned nose of sweet/tart cherries, cool plums*, powdered stones and lemon dust.  Piercing, almost electric flavors of high-toned cherry and tingly, stony minerals.  Crisp acidity and a fine dusting of tannin dominate the texture of the finish.  Amazing purity of flavors and liveliness.  Leaves the palate tingling and invigorated.  A-.  Was $29.99 from B-21 Wines in Florida (an excellent retailer who ships).



*  Remember that William Carlos William poem, "This is Just to Say"?

This Is Just To Say
I have eaten the plums that were in the icebox and which you were probably saving for breakfast Forgive me they were delicious so sweet and so cold

2008 Leonce Bocquet MACON (Rouge) (Southern Burgundy, France)

It's funny. Macon and Beaujolais are right next to each other. Both make Chardonnay based whites and Gamay based reds. But Beaujolais' reds are better than their whites, and Macon's whites better than their reds. But when I ever see a Macon rouge, I always give it a try and root for the exception. This was not it, but it was a decent quaffing wine.

Very light bright ruby. High-toned nose of almost Kool Aid-like blackberry and cherry, along with rock dust. Light, gulpable flavors of cherry and light minerality. Slug this back with a plate of good salami, coppa, or other good quality cured meats and bread. B-. Imported by Patriarche Pere . Was $12 and change at Spec's on Richmond.

(Sorry, can't find a photo.)

2008 Louis Jadot SANTENAY "Clos de Malte" (Burgundy, France)

A decent entry-level red burgundy. Closed and young, but not that much stuffing.

Dark ruby garnet. Very closed -- needed to be poured through a Vinturi to develop any aroma at all. After a long while, delicate scents of ripe cherry syrup and warm, fragrant, minerally earth developed. High-toned, minerally, crisp flavors, with fruit tending towards crisp cherry. Refreshing, lightly-minerally finish. 86. Was about $25 at Richard's on Kirby/Westheimer. Poor price-quality ratio, as is usual with red burgundies.

PS --did anyone else hear that Spec's quietly bought out the Richard's chain?? Is that true? If so, will Richard's stop getting wines from Robert Kacher Imports? I hope not. Spec's carries nothing from Kacher, and he's got a pretty good, value-friendly line-up.

2004 Meo-Camuzet MOREY-ST.-DENIS (Burgundy, France)

This was marked down by half (from $52 to $26) at Richard's on Voss so I thought I'd try it. Not bad, but kind of loose and starting to fade a bit (as are a lot of 2004 red burgundies I've tried -- they're clearly to be drunk up).

Light amberish ruby. Initially intensely earthy (in a barnyard-y kind of way), but with air more fruit emerged and the earthiness took a back seat. Lots of soft, flowing, schisty-minerally flavors, with mushrooms and baking-spice laced mulled cherries. Tightened up on the finish, with hard, dry cherry extract flavors the last to leave. Zero tannin. 80.

(Note: Fixin shown, but label design same for the Morey)

2005 Pierre Labet BEAUNE "Clos du Dessus des Marconnets" (Burgundy, France)

This Pinot Noir was tight and pretty good, although a bit on the tarter side than I like. Lots of the "terroirist" crowd seem to enjoy this style more than I do, however. It should have been a heck of a lot better for $33.

Eye: Vivid medium ruby color.

Nose: Medium intensity nose of cherry, with a hint of tart raspberry, as well as cinnamon, smoke, and powdered stones.

Mouth: Tight cherry and stone flavors, with crisp acidity but only medium concentration and length.

Score: 86+

Cellar or drink? The concentration and ripeness are marginal, but I'm guessing that there's just enough there to warrant 2 years or so to see if this softens up and broadens out a bit.

Price/store: Was $33 at Spec's on Smith, making it NOT a good value.

2005 Domaine Jean-Luc Dubois CHOREY-LES-BEAUNE "Clos Margot" (Burgundy, France)

A good (not great) Pinot Noir that is fairly priced, as PNs go. Features some bright, crisp Pinot fruit and good balance.

Eye: Medium dark ruby with purply highlights.

Nose: Bright, tart fruity nose of crisp cherries, crushed rock powder, and rhubarb.

Mouth: Tart cherry and stony mineral/graphite flavors. Very tightly-wound, but with decent concentration and length. The texture is quite light.

Score: 87.

Cellar or drink? I would cellar this one for 1 - 3 years, and it will likely soften and gain a little complexity.

Price/store: Was $21 and change at Spec's on Smith.