2009 Chateau Haut-Canteloup MEDOC (Bordeaux, France)

A very nicely-balanced, velvety-soft Merlot-dominated blend.  No oak showing at all, and that's a nice thing.

Very sultry black ruby.  On day 1, the nose showed next-to-nothing.  Day 2 (after being under a Vacu-Vin closure, it exhibited a medium-intensity nose of plummy, dark cherry/blackberryish fruit, along with a scorchy gravel component.  Medium full bodied in the mouth.  It's bone dry, but very soft, with lots of plummy fruit and a gravelly/graphitey note.  Clean, clingy finish.  While the lack of discernible tannin would normally lead me to think it should be drunk in the short term, the tight, closed nose and flavors, which opened only on day 2 definitely augur for 1-2 more years of cellaring.  This will drink well until 2018 or so.  B+.  Nice value at $14.99 from WTSO.com.  Imported  by Serge Dore Selections, Chappaqua, NY.

2004 Chateau La Tour de By MEDOC (Bordeaux, France)

This is a fully-mature, reasonably complex, smooth red.  Strangely, for decades I've been ambivalent about whether I really like the aged, tertiary aromas and flavors of "mature" Bordeaux.  After all this time, I just can't decide.  I feel like I should, because this is wine orthodoxy.  But, truth be told, I really do like wines on the younger side.  When they're younger, I feel like I can taste the terroir more acutely.  When they're older, I feel like I'm really just doing a science experiment on the effects of slow oxidation.  Well . . .  I guess I have decided.  My answer: not so much.  This one is about as far as I go.

Deep, mature ruby with a brickish tinge.  Nose showing lots of tertiary aromas of smoky gravel, dried fall leaves, old leather, a little menthol, and mulled cassis fruit.  Velvety soft in the mouth, with clingy flavors of leather, minerals, and some fading dark cherry fruit.  Clean, reasonably lengthy finish.  This needs a simple roasted chicken, steak with a red wine sauce, or a roast rib of beef to be at its best.  Any more vigorously-flavored food would destroy this wine.  B.  Was $24 from wineaccess.com.  Drink 'em if you got 'em.

2009 Clos des Menuts ST. EMILION Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France)

This is a style of Bordeaux I like.  Not trying to emulate a New World wine; structured, not overripe, not overoaked.  It needs a few more years, however. It is: Merlot 85%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10%, Cabernet Franc 5%.

Dark black ruby.  Nose closed at first, but on the second night it was showing lovely, subtle dark cherry fruit, and a dark, gravelly earthiness, along with a lifting baked cake note.  Densely-fruited, but in a dry extract -- not jammy -- way, it packs the palate with dark fruit and loads of gravelly minerals.  Full-bodied, with lots of fine-grained tannins.  Still feels a bit tight.  It's very good, if a bit youthful now, but will certainly improve over the next 5 years.  B+ now, probably higher later on.  I'm not sure what this cost or where to get it around the DC area, as a good friend brought this wine to our Super Bowl party as a gift.  Nice gift!  Imported by Monsieur Touton Selections, NY.

Three wines and lots of guests

We had people over for dinner Saturday and Sunday, so with all the talking and laughing etc., I didn't get to do detailed notes, but here are my impressions of three of the wines we popped.

2010 Domaine Vignaud CHABLIS PREMIER CRU Fourchaume -- Nice, minerally, brothy nose.  Nice entry, but then lean and a little hollow at present in the mid-palate.  Finishes with lots of clean, limestoney minerals in the finish.  Will be better in 2-4 years.

2005 Chateau Lascombes MARGAUX -- Much better than it was two years ago when I opened my first bottle.  Starting to develop some complexity, with the California-like primary fruit and oak I thought dominated the first bottle I popped a couple of years ago starting to subside and beginning to develop into a more sophisticated Bordeaux cedary character.  Very long finish.  Another wine that will be better still in 2-5 years.  Too bad that was my last bottle.  Paired well with Saturday's grilled steaks.

2006 Paul Pillot CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET PREMIER CRU CLOS SAINT JEAN (Rouge) -- a gorgeous, fully mature red burgundy.  Resiny cherry fruit, along with loads of gravelly minerals.  Leaner style, with very good acids.  Very nice with Coq au Vin.

2010 Chateau Duplessis (Moulis-en-Medoc, Bordeaux)

A decent, modestly-priced Bordeaux.  68% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, and some Cab Franc and Petit Verdot.  Very shy and reserved now, it may well be significantly better in  a few years.

Gorgeous color:  deeply-saturated and luminescent ruby-violet.  Very shy nose that reluctantly gives up a little whiff of brambly twigs, lightly charred oak, and cassis.  But you really have to work the sniffing to get it.  Tightly-wound flavors of lightly-scorched earth, minerals and a bit of cassis.  Dry, tight, and with a fair amount of tannin.  Medium full body, and pretty good acids.  Pretty good length.  This is a wine that needs at least 2-4 years of age to open up.  Right now, it's a B-, but with potential to come in higher after it opens up.  Got it on sale for $14.99 at Total Wine in Fairfax, VA.   Imported by Saranty Imports, White Plains, NY.

2009 Chateau d'Estang CASTILLON-COTES DE BORDEAUX (France)

This 70% Merlot/30% Cab Franc was direct, fruity, and very soft.  At $9.99, it was a very good value weekday dinner wine.

Dark ruby-garnet.  Friendly nose of plummy, ripe, black cherry fruit, along with a hint of some fragrant dry gravelly/nutmeggy scents.  Very soft in the mouth, with sultry, direct black cherry skin fruitiness, no tannin whatsoever, and a nice, pure, if not particularly lengthy, finish.  Medium-full body.  Drink over the next two years.  B.  Was $9.99 from Wine Exchange (winex.com).  Imported by Jeffrey M. Davies Selections, Illinois.

2005 Chateau Caronne-Ste. Gemme HAUT-MEDOC (Bordeaux, France)

A decent, but unexciting, Bordeaux.  A little too thin and diluted for my taste.

Dark black ruby color with some brick at the rim.  Medium intensity nose of slightly scorched gravel, old cedar shavings, and a bit of bright plummy fruit.  Fades in the mouth quickly, however, ending with drying tannins and scorched mineral, brambly blackberry, and dried leave flavors.  B-.  About $20 at Spec's.  Not worth it.

2009 Chateau Robin (Lussac-St.-Emilion, Bordeaux, France)

Solid, decent value, old-fashioned everyday Bordeaux.  Mostly Merlot, with some Cab Franc and a little Cabernet Sauvignon blended in.  Typical proportions for the St. Emilion side of the Gironde River.

Vivid blackish ruby.  Nice, youthful nose of dried underbrush and plummy fruit, along with a bit of fragrant crushed stone.  Bone dry and surprisingly tannic for a lower-end St. Emilion (which are usually made for short-term drinking), this wine grips the palate with dry cassis extract and brambly gravel flavors.  Pretty good concentration, medium-full body, but a somewhat short finish.  Not bad for the price.  B-.  Needs a year or two to settle down a bit more.  Was $13.99 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

2005 Chateau Fonreaud (Cru Bourgeois, Listrac-Medoc) (Bordeaux, France)

Nice, old-fashioned style Bordeaux.  Balanced, complex, medium weight, no new oak flavors, no fruit-bombiness.  Mostly Cabernet, but with a lot of Merlot in the blend.

Dark brickish ruby.  Medium intense nose of cassis, graphite, and fragrant, lightly-scorched earth.  Mouthcoating, drying flavors of low-toned dry blackberry extract, with sandstoney, brambly-woody accents.  Long, tannic finish with pretty decent acids.  B+.  Drink over the next 2-3 years.  Was $19 and change at Spec's on Weslayan/Bissonnett.  Imported by Horizon Wines, Houston.

2005 Chateau Lascombes (Margaux, Bordeaux)

This nearly half-and-half Cabernet/Merlot was very California in style. I would have not picked it out as a Bordeaux if I was served it blind. As such, it was stylistically disappointing, but well made.

Very dense, soft color -- rich black ruby. Very California nose of plush, ultraripe blackberry, graphite, and smoky oak. Very dense, low-toned flavors of graphite and dark cassis syrup. Very long finish of mineral-infused, ripe fruit. Will probably age for another 2-4 years. 87. Was $49 from Wines Til Sold Out back in February 2010.

Grandma, Nonno, and Molly's visit -- night 5

Every 5 years or so, I put a white in the freezer to chill it fast, but then forget I put it in there and by the time I remember it has frozen solid. The cork typically blows out as the liquid expands (water expands when frozen, and wine contains lots of water). It happened again. Good thing it wasn't a screw cap wine. It was an excellent German dry Riesling I previously reviewed, and after thawing it actually tasted pretty good, though not up to the standard of the unneglected bottle I had a few months ago. It was a 2008 Schafer-Frohlich RIESLING Trocken "Bockenauer" (Nahe, Germany). I won't review the frozen bottle.

Next up was the 2001 Chateau Haut-Bergey (Pessac-Leognan), one of my sentimental favorite estates in the Graves region of Bordeaux (I used to sell this when I worked for Paramount Wines in NY back in the early 80s). It's way more expensive now, but it's also stepped up in quality. It had a dark black, brickish ruby color befitting a mature Graves, and sported an intensely fragrant smoky, spiced gravel, and sweet cassis nose. Rich and soft, with deep, ripe fruit, and a smoky, earthy, oaky finish. It would have preferred the oak to be a bit less overt, but still it was very, very good, and peaking. 89.

2006 Chateau Patache d'Aux MEDOC (Bordeaux, France)

I used to drink wines from this chateau in the early 80s but haven't had it since. They were good, solid, inexpensive wines then. The 2006 was lacked fragrance and was thinnish.

Sedate black ruby. Very shy nose gives up little: some cassis, some gravel and some green bell pepper. Tannic and bone dry, with some scorched earth and dark cherry/cassis fruit, but not much. Lean, medium length, somewhat bitter finish. 74. $17 at Spec's on Smith.

2005 Chateau Tour St. Bonnet (Medoc, France)

This is a classic Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux. I'm not usually a Bordeaux or Cabernet/Merlot fan, but this is a wine I could drink a lot of without tiring. It's also an excellent value. Try it with grilled lamb.

A blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 5% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot, this wine had a dark ruby color that is just beginning to show a bit of age. Very nice nose of cedar, cassis, and scorched earth. Nice eight and fruit in the mouth. Good balance, good structure. Flavors of cassis and low-toned smoky earth. Long, dry, fairly smooth finish with some nice tannins giving some definition to the medium bodied frame. Classic structure, classic flavors. 88. Was $15 at Spec's Warehouse on Westheimer/Commonwealth.

2005 Chateau d'Archambeau GRAVES (Bordeaux, France)

A solid, workman-like red Bordeaux at a decent price.

Jet black ruby with the bare beginnings of brick at the rim. Fairly closed nose, even with air time and being poured through a Vinturi. Light intensity aromas of cassis, toasted oak, resin, and scorched earth. Broad mouthfeel, with medium-fine-grained tannins present throughout. Ripe but bone dry flavors: dry, dark blackberry, smoky gravel. Long, interesting, though not particularly soft finish, with a slightly bitter, scorched edge. Elegant is not a word that describes this wine, though it was pretty satisfying in an unpolished way. 85. Was about $15 at Spec's Warehouse on Westheimer and Commonwealth.

2005 Chateau de Peyremorin (Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux)

A decent Bordeaux, but not a repeat purchase.

Dark ruby garnet with a tad bit of amber at the rim. No nose at first, but run through a Vinturi, it showed medium-intensity aromas of dark cherry, scorched earth, and smoky autumn leaves. A leaner, bone-dry style, with tight, dry black cherry fruit and some gravelly minerality. A fair amount of noticeable tannin. Probably not going to get any better. 85. Was about $15 at Spec's Warehouse on Westheimer and Montrose.

2005 Chateau Bel Air (Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux)

This was -- surprise! -- a good value in a Bordeaux. Lots of character, very good balance.

Mellow, dark ruby with a plasma-like sultriness. Nose was initially closed at first, with a strong forest underbrush scent, but after I poured the second glass through a "Vinturi" aeration device (which I will post about next), it displayed loads of blackberry and cassis fruit, with a dry, baker's chocolate component, along with steely minerals and scorched gravel. Medium-full body, with mouthfilling flavors that initially show lots of briar-laced cassis, but display a growing liquid minerality as it lingers into a long finish. There is still a bit of tannin to resolve, but overall there is lovely balance. Hard to find Bordeaux of this quality under $20 -- this one was $14 and change at Spec's on Westheimer and Commonwealth. 88. Imported by Fruit of the Vine.

2005 Chateau Duplessis (Cru Bourgeois, Moulis) (Bordeaux, France)

A middle of the road Bordeaux. Eh.

Soft, medium dark blackish ruby. Medium intensity nose of dry blackberry and cassis, with some high-toned smoke-laced gravelly scents. Cassis, pencil lead, and some peanutty/scorched earth flavors fill the mouth quickly, but then fade just as quickly, leaving a fair amount of puckery tannin and mouthwateringly crisp acidity as the only lingering notes in the short finish. 84. Was about $19 at Spec's Warehouse on Westheimer and Commonwealth.

(Sorry -- 2004 pictured)

A whole bunch of good wines

Mom and Dad came for another visit, and for much of their visit I didn't have time to blog in real time or take detailed wine notes, but we did open up a lot of good stuff. Pretty much special occasion , not everyday quaffers, but what the hey. Here are my quick impressions of them:

2005 Daniel Dampt CHABLIS PREMIER CRU "Cotes de Lechet" -- A wine I reviewed last year, it was holding nicely, with lots of steely, earthy, austere and penetrating (unoaked) Chardonnay fruit. Was about $29 from Flickinger's Wines (on-line) in Chicago.





1989 Chateau Meyney (St. Estephe, Bordeaux) -- Despite non-optimal storage for the last 10 years, this wine has held together nicely. Loads of cedary-peanuty aged Bordeaux scents, with soft, earthy plummy fruit in the mouth.

















2006 Wine Guerrilla "Coffaro Vineyards Old Vine" ZINFANDEL (Dry Creek Valley) -- This Zin was really, really good. Big, spicy, ripe (almost jammy but not quite) nose. Rich and fat in the mouth, but with great balancing acidity keeping it from being ponderous. Spec's has some of this limited production gem for around $32.

2004 Casa Emma CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA -- This was a deep, brooding Chianti, with big earthy, gravelly, gingerbready notes augmenting seriously concentrated macerated cherry fruit. Long, austere finish with some well-hidden tannin. Come back and see this guy in 3-5 years and it will be amazing. About $40 at Spec's.

2005 Turkey Flat Vineyards MOURVEDRE (Barossa Valley, Australia) -- This had loads of deep, ripe blackberry fruit, with a distinctly saline minerality. Mouthfilling and deep. Was about $20 on sale at Kroger's (Yes, Kroger's!) on Westpark near Buffalo Speedway.

2006 Cristom "Eola-Amity Hills PINOT NOIR "Marjorie's Vineyard (Willamette Valley, Oregon) -- Another superb P.N. from this producer. Earthy, spicy sappy cherry nose. Mouthfilling yet exceedingly elegant, with a soft finish that lasted and lasted and lasted . . . . Wow. Was about $40 at Spec's on Smith.

2006 d'Arenberg "The Noble" RIESLING (McLaren Vale, Australia) -- This botrytised late harvest Riesling was a total surprise. Who would have expected an Aussie Riesling to compare with a German Beerenauslese? Not me. But this one did, and at a (relative) bargain price of $18 (Spec's on Smith). Honeyed apricots and peaches, very sweet, intense, flavors, yet with very good acidity for balance. Not as complex as the best German versions, but a bargain in comparison!

2000 CHATEAU RAHOUL -- Graves (Bordeaux, France)

I used to see this wine a lot in NYC when I lived there in the early 80s. It was always a good value for a Bordeaux and still is.

Dark ruby/brick color. Plummy, sweet, curranty nose with lots of typical Graves cigar box and sandstone scents. Soft, rich, earthy flavors in a medium-to-light-bodied frame. Beautiful structure and texture, nice length. Not super-concentrated, but very well done. This is why I like Cabernet blends from the Graves region (or its sub-region, Pessac-Leognan) better than Cabernets from anywhere else on earth: the balance, softness, and earthy complexity. 87. I think this was about $20, but I can't remember where I got it.