2012 Francois Villard SYRAH "L'Appel des Sereines" (France)

This producer is located in the Rhone, and the grape is Syrah, so I'm assuming it's a Rhone wine.  The label doesn't say.  But it tastes like a Loire red.  A really good Loire red.  Ripe and fragrant, yet low in alcohol (12.3%), with mouthwatering acids.

Medium dark ruby magenta.  Nose is great.  Earthy and meaty (and initially a bit on the funky side), but loads of crisp black cherry and boysenberry fruit come through, all undergirded with a saline minerality you can actually smell.  Ripe, crisp, earthy cherry fruit, with tons of rocky minerals.  Fantastic acidity keeps it refreshing.  This was about $16, if I remember correctly, from Red White & Bleu in Falls Church.  This light-bodied quaffer knows exactly who it is:  something that quenches your thirst and fits right in with a wide variety of foods (would be dynamite with braised chicken dishes, such as coq au vin).  Though it's a style that does not aspire to greatness, I give it an A-, based on its exuberant and highly distinctive character.  Imported by Elite Wines, Lorton, VA.

2011 Thorn-Clarke "Shotfire" SHIRAZ (Barossa Valley, Australia)

This had everything in beautiful balance.  Nice body and concentration.  Velvety texture.  Nose had swirling mixture of smoke, gravelly minerals, gorgeous dark berry fruit, and a meaty element.  Deep flavors of iodiney/minerally blackberry extract.  A saline element in the finish, which is long.  Not overripe or hot, as many Aussie Shirazes can be.  Really fine.  A-.  Was about $15 at Total Wine in Fairfax.  Drink over the next two years.

(Sorry, 2009 shown.)

2010 Domaine La Bastide "Les Genets" SYRAH Vieilles Vignes (Rhone Valley, France)

A terrific value in a deep-flavored, complex, well-balanced Syrah.  Very linear, and not a hint of flabbiness.

Saturated dark, plasma-like ruby.  Nose features smoke, dark minerals, roasted herbs, meat, and cassis fruit.  Flavorful on entry, with lean, clingy, iodiney/minerally notes overlaying dark, dry blackberry skins.  A fair amount of fine-grained tannin and a surprising level of acids lends structure and liveliness.  Full-bodied, bone dry.  All muscle with not fat.  This went very well with braised lambs shanks and grits.  B+/A-.  Imported by Paul Young Wines, Los Angeles, and purchased from Winex.com for a ridiculously low $9.99.  Get some of this.

PS -- I believe I had this wine in Houston several years ago (a different vintage, obviously, and liked it a lot).

PPS - It occured to me after I posted this review that this wine is basically a "Poor Man's Cornas."

2010 Shingleback SHIRAZ "The Davey Estate" (McLaren Vale, Australia)

I don't buy many Aussie Shirazes, and I've had way too many oaky, liquid jam-jars, but this one was billed as a leaner, more minerally exhibition of the grape, and it actually is.  It's quite nice.  Still identifiably Aussie, but stripped down.

Impenetrable black ruby, with a violet tinge.  Loads of liquid, slightly saline dark minerals, cedar, and blackberry and cassis skins on the nose.  Bone dry, dark blackberry extract and a clingy, iodiney streak in the mouth initially.  Loads of soft tannin then announces itself, and the lean, concentrated flavor profile grows slightly riper and sweeter on the back end.  Full-bodied, but not nearly overbearingly huge like some of its Aussie cousins.  The finish is very long and linear.  There is a lot going on in this wine.  Really fine.  A-.  Was $14.99 from WTSO.com, making it a very good value.  Would be outstanding with a juicy, grilled prime porterhouse.  Imported by Precept Wine, Seattle, WA.

2010 I Giusti & Zanza "Nemorino" (Tuscany, Italy)

I usually don't buy non-DOC Italian wines, especially from Tuscany, because they're usually non-indigenous varietals and tend to be heavily oaked and "international" in style.  I hate that shit on principle.  But my research indicated that this 60% Syrah, 20% Sangiovese, 20% (f*cking) Merlot is aged only in large casks for a short period, and was grown organically near Pisa.  So I gave it a shot.  I like it.

The first night it was very tight and unyielding.  I got nothing out of it.  Good thing I didn't review it then.  But I put it under Vacu-Vin for two days and came back to on night 3.  Much better.

Very dark, black ruby with violet highlights.  On night 3 the nose showed very precise dark cherry fruit, framed nicely by slightly smoky, rock dusty- minerals.  Concentrated, focused fruit in the mouth, with nice persistence and texture.  Medium-full body and great acids.  Finishes just a tad shorter than I'd like, but is very pleasurable.  The fact that it took so long to show itself tells me this wine will age nicely for a few years.  If you're going to drink it in the next 12 months, be sure to decant it in a huge decanter several hours ahead of time.  This wine will go well with a wide range of dishes. B+.  Was $14.99 from WTSO.com.  Imported by Superior Wines, Cranford, NJ.

PS -- I have to say, the label just sucks.  Really stupid.

2008 Tahbilk SHIRAZ (Nagumbie Lkes, Central Victoria, Australia)

I haven't had an Aussie Shiraz in a long time -- I find their typical jammy, oaky profile tiring and uninteresting.  But I remember drinking some structured, earthy Chateau Tahbilk Shirazes in the late 80s and early 90s, so I picked this one up recently for $13.99 (at Winex.com).  And, true to form, it's a bit more structured and interesting than the typical jam-fest.

Nearly saturated black ruby color.  Needs some time for the nose to develop fully, but when it does it shows ripe blackberry and sweet cassis fruit, and iodine/graphite note and smoky embers.  Full bodied and ripe, but not overripe or jammy, it fills the mouth with clingy deep fruit and smoky flavors.  It has considerable but soft tannin, and surprisingly good acids.  (And the acidity feels natural, as opposed to many Aussie reds, whose acidity seems so at odds with the jammy overripe fruit that it fairly screams "added by the winemaker.")  Fairly lengthy, almost refreshing finish.  B+/A-.  Imported by Epic Wines, Aptos, Cal.  This wine would go well with a wide range of meat and red-sauced pasta dishes.

2008 Kingston Family Vineyards SYRAH "Lucero" (Casablanca Valley, Chile)

Eh.  So "international" in style I wouldn't have had a clue what it was or where it was from if I couldn't see the label.  Dark, ripe, very oaky, and with a short finish.  It could be an over-oaked, young vine Cabernet, Merlot, or Syrah from California, France, Italy, Spain, Australia, or South America.

Since drinking a really good Chilean Syrah from Chono, I've been looking for another one of that caliber and have invariably been disappointed.

I don't get the point of making or drinking a wine like this.  It's not flawed or anything, it's just terminally uninteresting.  Was $15 and change on sale from zachys.com, and not worth half that.  C-. 

2009 Jimenez-Landi "Sotorrondero" MENTRIDA (Central Spain)

A wine from an area I'm not familiar with in central Spain, it's composed of Syrah primarily and actually tastes more French then Spanish.

Gorgeous, deeply-tinted dark ruby-violet.  Medium intensity nose of blackberry with a minute, sour twist.  Powdered sandstone is there too, with scorched earth notes and a wisp of high-toned smoke.  Dry, clingy entry, with slightly vegetal dark cherry fruit mixed with dry unsweetened chocolate and lots of powdered stone notes.  Good acids and lots of fine-grained, puckery tannins are the physical characteristics.  It's a unique wine that I probably would have placed as a Carignane-based wine from the Languedoc region of France had I not known what it was.  B.  Imported by Eric Solomon's European Cellars, this was $16.99 from The Wine Exchange (winex.com).

2006 Ridge SYRAH "Lytton Estate" (Dry Creek Valley, Cal.)

Our friends the Murphys bought this at Ridge when they were out there visiting a coupla months ago, and were nice enough to share it with us recently.  It's available only at the winery or if you're a member of the Ridge "Advanced Tasting Program" (which is well-worth being on if you have the wherewithal.)

It was outstanding.  Very much a "Ridge style" wine, with great depth, length, and linear flow, without being too heavy, too jammy, too alcoholic, or too tannic.  In other words, everything in perfect balance.  Great nose of dark, ripe berries, bacon drippings, and dry gravel.  Loved it.  Perfectly mature, though seemed like it could hold for several more years.

Mom & Dad's visit -- next few rounds

Louis Roederer CHAMPAGNE Brut Premier -- Very nice, toasty, yeasty, apply scented, on the lighter side but with a very long, crisp finish and great persistence of bubbles.

2010 Pascal Granger "La Jacarde" BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES BLANC (!) -- A rare white Beaujolais, from Chardonnay grapes and completely unoaked.  It has a ridiculously fresh, fruity fragrance with crisp peach and ripe apple fruit, and was nicely balanced, medium-light bodied, and as fresh as cotton sheets lined-dried on a crisp, sunny fall day.  ($21 at Houston Wine Merchant).  Get this.

2008 Core GRENACHE Santa Barbara County -- Tasted like freshly crushed plum and raspberry juice.  Very unusual, but good.  After a couple of days an herbal side came out.

2008 Chono SYRAH (Elqui Valley, Chile) -- Previously reviewed here, this wine remains a fantastic value.  (Available at Houston Wine Merchant and at Central Market).

2009 August Kesseler SPATBURGUNDER (Pinot Noir) ROSE (Rheingau, Germany) -- Fragrant, with crisp, light cherry and floral fruit, and surprisingly large -framed for a German wine.  Unique and good.

2006 Ottimino ZINFANDEL "Von Weidlich Vineyard" (Russian River Valley, Cal.) -- Very elegant Zin, showing the classic profile of a Zin with some bottle age, which tends to mute the up-front fruit and bring out a brambly quality.  More depth than the previously reviewed "Ottimino Vineyard" bottling from this producer.

2009 "Beso de Vino" (85% Syrah, 15% Garnacha) (Carinena, Spain)

This was a pure tasting, simple but satisfying value-priced red.  Great for weeknight meals.

Nearly saturated black ruby.  Nose very fruity with loads of tangy raspberry and boysenberry scents over a little bit of smoky gravel.  Soft and fleshy in the mouth, medium-full bodied, with nicely concentrated, direct berry fruit.  Some very soft tannin lends a little structure.  Decently long, pure-tasting finish.  Everything nicely in balance.  Drink over the next year.  B+  Was $9 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.  Imported by Steve Miles Selections.

2007 Falernia SYRAH Reserva (Elqui Valley, Chile)

Another good Syrah from the Elqui Valley. This wine was intense in a very lean, zero body fat way.

Nearly saturated deep mulberry ruby color. Strong nose of intense crushed black peppercorn, deeply-roasted bitter herbs, and sandstone, overlayed with dark blackberry fruit. The first night is was intense, lean, and austere, with very clingy herbal flavors predominating. On night 2, more fruit and roundness emerged. It displayed ripe blackberry fruit and a high-toned, chalky minerality. The herbal stuff decidedly took a back seat for the ride home on night 2. Good acidity to bring liveliness to the clingy flavors. Still some tannin left. This will hold and maybe improve over the next 2 years. Be sure to let it air out well in advance (pour through a Vinturi into a wide decanter if you can). B+. Imported by Meadowbrook Estates (an arm of Neil Empson's company). Can't remember where I got this, but I think it was around $12.

2008 Yalumba SHIRAZ "Patchwork" (Barossa Valley, Australia)

A very nice, not over-blown or overly jammy Shiraz.

Almost completely saturated soft, blackish plasma color. Rich and inviting nose of sappy blackberry, salty, warm sandstone, and creamy baking spices. Dark, low-toned, ripe flavors of rich plum/blackberry juice, saline sandstone-infused earthiness, and smoky balsa wood. Clingy finish with a tad bit of peppery bite, low-ish acidity (but not too low), and a bit of soft tannin. Fun to drink and actually pretty elegant for an Aussie Shiraz. B+. Was $14 and change at Spec's on Richmond.

2008 Chono SYRAH Reserve (Elqui Valley, Chile)

Holy crap! I've never had as strong a sense of "deja wine" as with this one. It reminded me of a 1979 Cakebread Howell Mountain Beatty Ranch Zinfandel I had a couple of bottles of in the early 1980s in my Upper West Side apartment on w89th Street in NY. It almost literally transported me back to that place and time. But enough New Age drivel.

Dark ruby color was not remarkable. But then I stuck my nose in the glass. And the time warp began. Fragrant nose of cracked black peppercorns, smoky gravel, and ripe, flavorful spicy blackberries. Ripe (but not jammy or overblown) dense, clingy flavors of black peppercorns, cassis, and smoky embers. Long, very clingy, low-toned, minerally finish. Full-bodied, yet not overdone, with good acidity for its size and good balance. Will keep and maybe even improve over the next 2-4 years, but, why wait? This is delicious now. A. I got this (I think) for around $13 at Whole Foods on Bellaire. Imported by one of my favorite importers, North Berkeley Imports.

2005 Domaine du Murinais CROZES-HERMITAGE "Cuvee Vieilles Vignes" (Rhone Valley, France)

This Syrah was good, but nothing more.

Youthful dark black ruby. Meaty, earthy nose with warm sandstone scents and some faint, slightly yeasty cassis fruit. Tight and crisp in the mouth, and actually a bit thin and lacking concentration. The modest fruit quickly transitioned in the mouth to a clingy, brambly component. Not bad, but not a repeat purchase. 80.

2008 Domaine La Bastide "les Genets" SYRAH "Vieilles Vignes" (VDP, Languedoc,Southern France)

This Syrah -- from a dry, hot region in the south of France, and unoaked, I think -- is an excellent value. I would put this up against Crozes-Hermitages and oaky U.S. Syrahs costing 2-3 times as much.

Gorgeously dark ruby with violet highlights. Deeply fruity nose of rich cassis and blackberry along with smoky, gravelly scents. Concentrated and tight, with good weight in the mouth yet with a relatively soft texture. Tightly-wound core of deep-toned dark berry fruit with a long, mineral/schist-infused finish. Soft enough to enjoy now, yet its balance, concentration, and loads of soft tannin will insure that it will keep for a couple of years. 88. Only $11 at Spec's on Smith. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler.

2008 "THREE TREES" (100% Syrah) (VDP de Cotes Catalanes, southwest France)

This is a very good wine for the money. Tastes like a much more expensive Cornas.

Dark black ruby with violet highlights. Closed at first, with significant air time (and pouring through a Vinturi), it develops a big, dark, meaty, smoky blackcherry extract nose. The glory here, however, is in the mouth. These grapes must have been picked the perfect time. Loads of perfectly ripe, plummy, blackberry fruit, together with loads of smoky, sandstoney earth, Fantastic acidity. Lots of chewy, ripe tannins. Excellent! 90. Was $16.99 at Houston Wine Merchant on South Shepherd. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections.

2007 Pillar Box Red (65% Shiraz, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot) (Padthaway, Australia)

Very good, if you like that super-extracted, super-ripe Aussie style. May be a bit much for some.

Completely saturated, nearly black plasma color. Sweet, deep, smoky, salty nose, with loads of graphite and dried blackberry sap scents. As it aired out, more fruit emerged, and the smoky, graphite elements receded. Very low-toned, dense flavors of salty sandstone-infused blackberry syrup attack the palate and then morph into smoky, liquid minerals in the back of the throat. Low acidity and a boatload of soft tannin. Huge and dense, this is a weighty mouthful. It was about $10 (I can't remember where, but it's widely available, appearing even in supermarkets). Not elegant, but no skimping on flavor. I gave it an 88, but some won't go for this style, and I admit that I have to be in the mood for it.

2006 Domaine Durand CORNAS "Premices" (Northern Rhone, France)

A large-scaled and rustic Syrah.

Dark, vivid plum-ruby color. Although closed and giving up nothing but scorched earth scents initially, after significant air time it yielded scents of sweet, plummy fruit, smoky, meaty, almost bacon-y notes, and lemon-cream spices. Compact and tannic in the mouth, with lots of pencil shaving and scorched earth flavors, along with youthful and not-so-soft tannin and peppery piquancy obscuring some nice but shy cassis fruit. Long, dry finish. Needs another 2 - 4 years to drop out some of the tannin and open up a bit. 85+. Imported by Fruit of the Vine, Inc. Was $26 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

(Sorry -- this label looks a little different than the one I got, but it's close).

Easter wines

Sorry -- I know I'm behind, but here are the wines we popped open for our Easter dinner (with truncated, from-memory notes).

NV Pierre Sparr CREMANT D'ALSACE Reserve Brut -- To my mind, in general, sparkling wines from Alsace are the best values in the market for bubbly. They're generally $15-$20, and have as much character as non-vintage Champagne costing twice as much or more (although because of the different varietals used in Alsace the flavor profile is a bit different). They tend to be more flavorful than the Spanish cavas as well. This one was decent, but not a great example -- crisp, citrusy fruit, bone dry, but I detected just a note of beginning oxidation. Lucien Albrecht and Rene Mure are other producers to look for in Houston.

2006 Jean-Max Roger SANCERRE "Cuvee Les Caillottes" (Loire Valley, France) -- Lean, very herbal and crisp. A tad underripe for my palate. Bone dry and refreshing, however.

2001 Delectus MERLOT "Stanton Vineyard" (Napa Valley, Cal.) -- Yes, I have often repeated the famous Merlot line from Sideways, but this wine (which our guests the Murphys brought over) floored me. Superb, rich, chocolately dark fruit on the nose. Full, and still sporting some nice tannic structure. Lots of concentration and length, but with good balance. Can even stand a few more years in a cool cellar.

2006 Linne Calodo "NEMESIS" 82% Syrah, 14% Mourvedre, 4% Grenache (Paso Robles, Cal.) -- Big disappointment for such a cult winery. Overripe and massive, but plainly out of balance, with hot, hot alcohol burning from entry to finish, obliterating the flavors.