2004 Chateau la Coustarelle CAHORS "Grand Cuvee Prestige" (Southwest France)

Having been burned many times in the 1980s (plus not being a Malbec fan), I always approach Cahors with trepidation, but the quality there has gotten much better of late, and this was a very good wine.

This was a blend of 90% old vine Malbec ans 10% Tannat (which, like its name sounds, tends to be very tannic).

Nearly saturated very dark ruby. Low-toned, intense nose of lemon-soaked dark cherry extract, fragrant peat smoke, and scorched gravel. Bone dry, concentrated flavors of metallic minerals and dry black cherry, along with a brambly, dried underbrush component. Loads of cottony tannins coat the mouth. In other words, this was a seemingly textbook Cahors, showing rusticity and elegance simultaneously. B+ Was $17.99 at Houston Wine Merchant. Imported by Charles Neal Selections. Drink over the next two years.

(Sorry, 2002 shown).

2007 Domaine Roc de Chateauvieux MALBEC TOURAINE (Loire Valley, France)

This was very high acid and tart, but went well with Szechuan Chicken.

Very dark, nearly saturated black ruby with magenta highlights. Medium intensity nose of smoke dried leaves and scorched earth, along with very tart berry aromas. Very high acidity in the mouth, with some decent if undernourished fruit underneath. Medium length finish. Not particularly distinguished on its own but, strangely, it paired nicely with a very spicy and salty Chinese dish. 78 on its own. 83 with the meal. Was $12.35 at the new Spec's in my neighborhood (at Weslayan & Bissonnet). Imported by Cannon Wines Limited.

2006 Finca Flichman MALBEC (Mendoza, Argentina)

Call this ridiculous value "Recession Red." $4.99 for a solid, well-made red with some real character.

Dark ruby garnet. Interesting nose of plums, sweet lemon juice, and angel food cake crust. Medium full-bodied, with medium intensity flavors of blackberry, brambly earth, and minerals, with a long, dry, slightly tannic finish. Drink over the next year. 86. Got is, as I said, for $4.99 on sale at Fiesta (Old Spanish Trail and Kirby), but I think the regular price is $5.99, which still qualifies as an excellent value.

(Sorry -- 2008 pictured).

2007 Terrazas de los Andes MALBEC (Mendoza, Argentina)

Pretty good Malbec, with this varietal's trademark coarseness pretty well in check.

Very dark, mulled ruby color. Lots of ripe, plummy-blackberry fruit in the nose, with a sweet, earthy/woody note. Rich, deep-toned flavors, nice ripeness, with lots of tannic structure, veering over only slightly to the coarse side. Would be very good with rich stews and braises, which would tend to smooth out the tannins. 87. Got this at Whole Foods on Bellaire, I think, for around $14.

2005 Salentein MALBEC (Mendoza, Argentina)

This was a very nicely-crafted red. Soft, rich, and complex.

Eye: Completely saturated dark ruby-purple.

Nose: Intense and complex nose of minerally gravel, lemon juice, and ripe blackberries.

Mouth: Full-bodied, with complex flavors of coffee, cassis, blackberry, and peppery iodine. Lots of medium-soft tannins in the lengthy, minerally finish.

Score: 89.

Cellar or drink? Drink over the next 3-5 years.

Price/store: This was a gift, but Spec's lists this for $19.

Vacation wines -- Day 7

2005 Herdade das Servas "Monte das Servas" (Alentejano, Portugal) -- This wine was extraordinarily soft and velvety textured, with nicely integrated red berry fruit and cigar box scents. I liked it a lot.

2006 Altos las Hormigas Malbec Reserva (Mendoza, Argentina) -- A dense, ripe, highly extracted and very tannic Malbec. My brother Angy liked it a lot more than I did, as I thought the level of tannins was a bit over the top.

Dinner: Beef Stew "in the Italian fashion" with lots of red wine and tomatoes.

2006 Pascual Toso MALBEC (Maipu Vineyards, Mendoza, Argentina)

An outstanding value, this wine had loads of flavor for under $10.

Color: Dense purple-tinged ruby.

Nose: Interesting nose of buttered wheat toast, gravel, and ripe plums and cassis.

Mouth: Round, ripe, soft, and concentrated. Persistent flavors of blackberries and sandstone. Full-bodied, with a long, balanced finish, and lots of soft, ripe tannin.

Cellar or drink?: Drinking very well now, but will age nicely for the next three years or so.

Score: 90.

Price/store: Was $9 and change at Spec’s on Westheimer.

2006 Doña Paula MALBEC "Los Cardos" (Mendoza, Argentina)

This was a very ripe, well-balanced red with a lot of character.

Saturated black ruby/mulberry color. The nose needs a lot of air time to develop, but then displays deep fruit (crushed, oozing blackberries, sweet cream, coffee and balsa wood. Rich, spicy black raspberry fruit, with a smokey granite component as well. Full-bodioes and mouthfilling. Substantial tannin in the finish, but it's relatively ripe for Malbec. Reminded me of a very ripe, old vine Zin from Contra Costa County like Rosenblum or Cline make. Very nice. 89. Was about $14 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.