2008 Domaine Giachino "Abymes Monfarina" Vin de Savoie (France)

A fresh, crisp, biodynamic white made from the Jacquère grape.

Very light gold with silver flashes. Loads of character in the intensely stony nose, with straw, pear, perfumed loam, and banana notes competing for attention. Less fruity in the mouth than the nose would lead you to believe: instead, it's crisp, dry, and minerally, with mouthwatering acids. Very refreshing. Sparkingly clean finish. Would be great with shellfish. 88. Imported by Eric Solomon. Was $15 from Zachys.com.

2008 Chateau Font-Mars PICPOUL DE PINET (Languedoc, Southern France)

A really nice, balanced and refreshing unoaked white from an arid, hot region more known for its gutsy reds.

Light, bright, brassy-gold.

Ripe, deep, tropical fruit-laden nose, with pineapple, banana, and notes of peach and lychee nuts. Dry and refreshing, with lots of pear fruit in the mouth, and a light, clean, stony minerality. Squeeze of lime at the end. Surprisingly well balanced, flavorful, and a great accompaniment to New Orleans "Barbequed Shrimp" (recipe). 88.

Was $11 and change at Spec's on Smith, making it an excellent buy. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler.

2008 Domaine des Cassagnoles VDP Cotes de Gascogne (SW France)

This was an outstanding buy in a fresh, crisp, character-filled dry white. Worth buying by the case if you like to have a fair amount of everyday white wine on hand.

Exceedingly pale, greenish straw gold. Beautifully fresh nose of herbs, pear, stones, and clover blossoms. Smells like there's a fair amount of Sauvignon Blanc in the blend. Crisp, lip-smacking mouthfeel, with loads of focused, green appley fruit and a lightly chalky minerality. A ridiculously refreshing, light-bodied dry white. 88. Was $8.76 at Spec's on Westheimer (outside the Loop near Fogo de Chao). Imported by Weygandt-Metzler.

(Sorry: 2005 label shown)

2006 Pierre Boniface APREMONT (Savoie, France)

This wine is usually fresh, crisp, and minerally, and in some vintages can have some nice apply fruit. This one was pretty good, but would have scored higher with more fruit.

Color: Light, vivid yellow-gold.

Nose: Lively, bright aromas of lime, limestone, pungent minerals and hay.

Mouth: Minerally, fresh, bone dry, and medium-bodied, with green apples, tart lemon-lime, and mineral flavors. Long, pure-tasting finish.

Cellar or drink?: Drink now.

Score: 85.

Price/store: Was $11 and change at Spec’s on Smith.

2004 Chateau Calabre (Montravel, France)

This is a white Sauvignon Blanc (60%) - Semillion (40%) blend from an outlying region near Bordeaux. Very light brassy-gold color. Initially the nose featured grassy herbs, chalk, and gooseberries (which comes from the Sauvignon Blanc side of the family), but after it had been opened an hour or so, the lanolin scent of Semillion started to feel its oats. Large-framed with big, straightforward flavors of chalky minerals, cut grass, lime, and marzipan. Finishes clean, but with a little heat. 85. Not bad, but not a repeat purchase candidate. Was $9.99 at Richard's on South Shepherd.

2004 Grange des Rouquettes MARSANNE-VIOGNIER (Southern Rhone, France)

Straw-gold color. Shy nose of spiced ripe pears. Bone dry, broad flavors, primarily of minerals, marzipan, and pear skins. Medium body, with a clean finish. This wine definitely favors its subdued Marsanne side, displaying little of the floral, tropical fruit characteristics of the Viognier grape. Still, not bad for a change-of-pace white. 85. Was $9.99 at Richard's at Weslayan & Bissonett.