Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Cheap Bourgogne Rouge Death Match

Since I wasn't able to do my Cotes du Rhone battle royale, when recent guests gifted me with a Joseph Drouhin "LaForet" Bourgone Pinot Noir -- a widely-available, reasonably-priced red burgundy -- I decided to pick two more at around the same price and open all three entry-level French PNs all at once.

The result:  CHEAP BURGUNDY DEATH MATCH.  I picked up the equally-widely-available and reasonably priced Louis Jadot Bourgogne, and, to throw in a David with these commercial Goliaths, a Bourgogne Rouge from the relatively smaller producer, Bertrand Ambroise.  Here are the results.

1st Place:  2009 Bertrand Ambroise Bourgogne -- The nose was very youthful, like it had just been bottled, but it had more body and flavor than the other two.  Bright ruby with magenta highlights.  Big, youthful nose of concentrated, crushed cherry and pomegranate, along with rock dust and grated lemon zest.  Youthful and mouthfilling (for a Bourgogne) with tightly wound black cherry and brambly earth flavors.  Fine-grained tannin coats the mouth as the clingy finish wears on.  This will keep and improve over the next three years.  B(+) (which means it's a B right now, but with age should get better).  Imported by Robert Kacher.  $19 and change at Spec's on Smith.

2nd Place:  2008 Joseph Drouhin "Laforet" Bourgone Pinot Noir -- This was more developed in the nose, and had nice, correct Pinot flavors, but was a little light.  Medium-light ruby showing a little amber hue.  Bright nose of pure, sappy, crisp cherries and a hint of stoniness.  Bright cherry fruit at first impression in the mouth, followed by some light but kind of coarse tannin.  Clean, but short and thin finish.  This is a pleasant wine but needs drinking up over the next 6 months.  B-.  Imported by Dreyfus-Ashby, it sells for $16 and change at Spec's.

3rd Place:  2008 Louis Jadot Bourgogne Pinot Noir -- This was light on the nose, light and somewhat lacking in life in the mouth, but had a clean finish.  Bright, medium ruby.  Relatively closed nose reluctantly gives up scents of tart cherry candy and chalk.  Correct but somewhat flat cherry flavors, but diluted-tasting.  Clean, medium length finish.  Drink over the next 12-18 months.  C+.  Imported by Kobrand, it was $17 and change at Spec's.

No comments: