Wednesday, February 24, 2010

2007 Kermit Lynch Selection CÔTES DU RHÔNE (France)


This was a very fine Côtes du Rhône, specially formulated for the excellent importer Kermit Lynch.

Brilliant dark ruby. Tight nose was pungently earthy at first, but opened into a gorgeously fresh-fruit nose of just-picked raspberries and blueberries, with notes of sea shell-scented gravel. Dry and lean in the mouth, but with resiny, fruity, earthy flavors that cling to the palate. A bit more concentration and weight in the mid-palate would have made this exceptional, but as it is, it's very good. 88. Was $17 at Houston Wine Merchant on South Shepherd. (sorry, 2006 pictured)

2006 Bleasdale "Langhorne Crossing" (52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Malbec, 15% Shiraz, 6% Petit Verdot) (Langhorne Creek, Aus.)


A good everyday dinner wine. Fruity, flavorful, soft, balanced.

Bright, deep ruby color. Yeasty, fruity nose -- black raspberries and sweet blackberry. Medium full body, with direct blackberry and ripe cassis flavors. Also a hint of scorched earth. Clean, fruity, steely-minerally finish. Virtually no tannin to speak of. 86. Was $12 at Whole Foods on Bellaire (also available at the same price at HEB on Buffalo Speedway).

Saturday, February 13, 2010

2008 Castillo de Almansa GARNACHA Tintorera (Almansa, Spain)


This was an excellent buy at Houston Wine Merchant (on South Shepherd). Showing an interesting flavor profile for a Spanish Grenache in that it wasn't as directly "raspberry fruity" as many.

Very dark, nearly saturated black ruby. Intense and direct nose of equal portions of raspberries and tomato skins, with some lemony, smoky scents as well. Low-toned, dry flavors of dark berries and iodiney minerals. Long, peppery finish with a pleasant hint of bitterness, and a bit of tannin for a Grenache. Very flavorful and athletic. 87. Drink over the next year. Was $10.99 at Houston Wine Merchant. Imported by Winebow. (Sorry, 2007 shown).

2005 Trentadue ZINFANDEL (Sonoma County)


This blend of fruit from the Alexander Valley and other Sonoma locations is a very good value in a fully mature Zin.

Dark, blackish ruby. Intense, low-toned nose: Smoky balsa wood, rick blackberries, and loamy, minerally gravel. Deep, rich, ripe, and peppery, with low-toned flavors of dark black fruits, and a long, smoky, ripe finish. Can still sense a bit of tannin. 88. Was about $14 at Spec's on Smith.

2006 Cabriz DAO (Portugal)


A pretty solid Dao, and a good value. Note: this wine requires lots of air-time (or to be poured through a Vinturi) to open up.

Dark ruby. Interesting, medium-intensity nose of spiced gravel, dark cherries, and lemony chalk. Focused and balanced, with minerally dark cherry and blackberry fruit. Medium-bodied, with a nicely-balanced finish, and decent length. 87. $10.99 at Houston Wine Merchant. Imported by Aidil Wines, Newark, NJ.

2006 Clos des Rochers AUXERROIS (Luxembourg)


I haven't had a wine from this very good producer in a few years, and this remains as good a value as it was then. Auxerrois, by the way, is a relative of the Pinot Blanc grape.

Bright, light gold color. Earthy, honeyed nose, with toasty straw notes and pear/apple fruit. Round and loaded with fresh, earthy minerals in the mouth, with some interesting sour pear skin fruitiness and pretty good acidity. Almost Maconnais in style. 86. About $16 at Spec's on Smith. Imported by Glazer's Wholesale in Dallas.

PS -- the Riesling from this estate is usually a good value in an dry, Alsace style wine as well.


Saturday, January 30, 2010

2006 Sidejob Cellars C5 ZINFANDEL "Stefani Vineyard" (Dry Creek Valley, Cal.)


A terrific mouthful of Zin!

Crystalline black ruby/garnet. Gorgeous, open nose of bright, ripe blackberry and boysenberry fruit, along with high-toned smoky balsawood and spice notes. Rich, round, and densely-fruited, with deep, sweet, black raspberry fruit and loads of peppery minerals. Very full-bodied. Lengthy, rich finish, with some alcoholic heat peeking through. Drink over the next year before the alcohol burns through the gorgeous fruit. 92. Was $21 at Wines Til Sold Out.

2006 La Posta BONARDA "Estela Armando Vineyard" (Mendoza, Argentina)


Bonarda -- a grape that takes a back seat to Nebbiolo in the Novara area of Piemonte in Italy -- can produce wines of greater depth and distinction in Argentina. This Bonarda proves the point.

Fully saturated violet-tinged dark ruby. Lively and ripe nose -- sweet, smoky gravel, and lots of ripe blackberry fruit. Medium-full to full bodied, it has an intense initial attack of minerally blackberry fruit, which morphs quickly into a sequential parade of mixed berry extracts that clings to the palate. Lots and lots of youthful tannin to resolve, but it's not too rough to enjoy now. 88. Very nice value at $14 at the new Spec's at Weslayan and Bissonnet.

Monday, January 25, 2010

2004 Perticaia MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO (Umbria, Italy)

A voluptuous wine made from the relatively rare and exclusive Sagrantino grape, which is grown (exclusively, I think) in Umbria.

Sultry black ruby with mulberry and brick highlights (indicating near full maturity). Extraordinarily rich and expressive nose of sappy, oozing mixed berries, smoky embers, cinnamon, and soft sweet spices. Mouthfilling and large in volume, this wine coated the palate with ripe, smoky flavors that lingered and lingered -- red berry compote, earth, and smoke. Loads of soft tannin. Really unique. 90. Was $24.99 from Wines Til Sold Out (which is about half of what these puppies usually go for).

(sorry -- 2001 depicted)

2006 Giubilo AGLIANICO IRPINIA (Campania, Italy)


A very good Aglianico, but not a particularly good buy at $20.

Very blackish ruby. Nose of tangy but ripe berries, with some dry, smoky gravel scents. Very low-toned, richly-fruited flavors of scorched earth, charcoal embers, and boysenberry jam. Medium length, decent depth, and full-bodied, but not particularly complex. 87. Was $19.99 at Central Market. Imported by Monarchia Matt International.

2007 Domaine Roc de Chateauvieux MALBEC TOURAINE (Loire Valley, France)


This was very high acid and tart, but went well with Szechuan Chicken.

Very dark, nearly saturated black ruby with magenta highlights. Medium intensity nose of smoke dried leaves and scorched earth, along with very tart berry aromas. Very high acidity in the mouth, with some decent if undernourished fruit underneath. Medium length finish. Not particularly distinguished on its own but, strangely, it paired nicely with a very spicy and salty Chinese dish. 78 on its own. 83 with the meal. Was $12.35 at the new Spec's in my neighborhood (at Weslayan & Bissonnet). Imported by Cannon Wines Limited.

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

2006 Domaine "La Garrigue" COTES DU RHONE "Cuvee Romaine" (France)

Holy cow! What a wine -- and what a value!

Starts off unassumingly with a medium dark ruby color of no real distinction, but after that . . . a ridiculously expressive nose leaps out of the glass with powdered rocks, spicy raspberries, with hints of pink grapefruit, herbs, and pine forest. Intense flavors grip the palate with aggressive minerals, blackberry and cassis fruit, along with excellent acidity and a boatload of youthful but soft tannin. Long, perfumed, resiny finish. Wow! 91. Was $16.99 at Houston Wine Merchant. I hope they still have some, because I want a couple more bottles. Imported by Eric Solomon European Selections.

Saturday, January 16, 2010

2007 Simmonet-Fevre SAVIGNON SAINT-BRIS (Northern Burgundy, France)




This is a relatively hard-to-find Sauvignon Blanc from what is most certainly Chardonnay country -- the area around Chablis. But ZOUNDS, what a fun wine!




Very luminescent, bright gold. I mean, get the shades out. Fantastically lively nose of ripe, fresh squeezed lemons and limes, with flinty powdered stones, and freshly-mowed straw. Absolutely vibrant in the mouth, with (literally) mouth-watering flavors of ripe, juicy lemon juice-drenched grapes, bight stones, and, in the finish, an interesting marzipan note. Just delicious! Not a blockbuster in terms of concentration or body (it's relatively light-bodied), but really fun to drink. 90. Was a ridiculously cheap $11.99 at Houston Wine Merchant.

2006 San Leonino CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)


A very nicely-done Chianti.

Very dark, plasma-like ruby. Textbook Chianti nose of ripe chokecherries, along with smoky gravel. Good concentration and weight, with good balancing acidity and a bit of soft tannin. Flavors of ripe cherries and dark berries, with loads of dried-earthy, stony minerals. Fairly long finish. A very solid effort. 88. Was $16.49 at Spec's on Smith, making it a good buy. Imported by Wilson Daniels.

Wednesday, January 13, 2010

2007 HRW (Hendry Winery) ZINFANDEL (Napa Valley, Cal.)

This second label Zin is a solid, value-priced every-night style of red from this reputable Napa Valley winery.


Dark-ish black ruby. Extroverted nose of brambly/cedary blackberry juice. Soft, fleshy, and loose-limbed in the mouth, with lots of straightforward Zin fruit, lots of balsa/cedar notes, and a good bit of (pleasant) heat in the fairly long finish (notwithstanding that it has a relatively low stated alcohol content of 13.8%). 87. Drink over the next 6-12 months. Was $15 at Spec's on Smith.

2004 Corte Campagnola AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA (Veneto, Italy)


A really good, really rich Amarone. Pretty close to textbook.

Deep, mature black ruby/garnet. Rich, almost port-like nose of blackberry and cherry compote with warm, earthy baking spices, together with a hint of prune. Extraordinarily full-bodied, with warm flavors of tarry, dense, roasted black berries and dried cherry jam. Long, powerful finish. Very soft, and fully mature. Drink over the next year or two. 90.

Got this for $29.99 (pretty unheard-of for a high quality Amarone) on-line at Wines Til Sold Out -- a unique online wine close-out service that I subscribe to. They send daily (and sometimes 2 or 3 times daily) emails containing their offerings, which frequently are well below market prices. I recommend this service, with the caveat that if you live in Texas, ordering wines to be shipped in the summer months is a no-no.
Imported by Monarchia Matt International.


2008 MontGras CARMENERE RESERVA (Colchagua Valley, Chile)


A good, solid Carmenere.
Completely saturated black ruby. Low-toned nose of scorched earth, dark minerals, and iodine-y blackberries. Dense, low-toned flavors too, redolent of cassis, blackberry, and tinged with burnt herbs. Long, dry finish with lots of fairly soft tannin still to resolve. 87+ Was $12 at Kroger's on Buffalo Speedway & Westpark. Palm Bay Imports.

2008 Chateau de Chenas BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES (Burgundy, France)


A straightforward, lighter and tarter style of Beaujolais.


Bright, medium ruby. Bright, zesty aromas of sweet/tart cherries and crushed chilled grapes, with hints of flowers and salty stones. Bone dry and tart in the mouth, with lots of direct, tart cherry fruit and a crisp, if not long, finish. Not bad, and will be enjoyed by those who like a crisper, leaner style of Beaujolais. 84. Imported by Cellar Door Selections. Was about $12 at Central Market.

Wednesday, January 06, 2010

2006 Le Roc FRONTON "Classique" (60% Negrette, 30% Syrah, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon) (Southwest France)


Wow! What a discovery (well, it was a discovery for me, anyway). Fronton is an appellation, and Negrette is a varietal, that I have no experience with, but this was an excellent and unique wine at a very good price.


Amazingly sharp color of jewel-like black ruby with subtle violet highlights. Remarkable nose of powdered stones, and candied black cherries and raspberries. Round in the mouth, with medium weight but waves of ripe, up-front, intensely minerally black cherry/blackberry fruit. Lengthy, pure finish with a subtle but pleasant resiny quality. Lots of incredibly fine-grained, soft tannin. 89. Was $11.99 at Central Market. Imported by Charles Neal Selections.

2007 Cristom PINOT GRIS "Estate" (Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, OR)


This was a full-flavored yet nicely balanced Pinot Gris, a varietal which, particularly in Alsace, can in my view be too buttery and viscous for its own good.


Bright, pale gold with pewter highlights. Stony, buttered pears in the subtle nose. Vary soft, luscious texture but with a refreshing mouthfeel nonetheless. Rich, stony mineral-infused pear and peach pit flavors. Very long finish, with fairly good acidity. 88. Was $23.99 at Central Market.