2008 Viu Manent "Secreto" CARMENERE (Colchagua Valley, Chile)

Another well-made, good value wine from this consistent Chilean producer. Lots of flavor and body for the money.

Thickly saturated ruby mulberry color. Ripe, highly extracted nose of sticky blackberry oozings and graphite. Mouthfilling, full-bodied flavors of very ripe blackberry and cassis, with significant notes of baker's chocolate. Lots (a bit too much) of peppery heat from the alcohol intrudes on the finish. A massive bruiser of a wine. Subtle as a sledgehammer. Some may like this style better than I do. I find it just a tad overdone, particularly in the heat of summer. Still, 86, for oomph, mostly. Was under $10 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

2009 Yves Cuilleron SYRAH ROSÉ "Sybel" (Rhone Valley, France)

A very nice, fleshy rosé. Just barely off-dry.

Light, peach-tinted pinkish color. Beautiful nose of just-picked grapes, watermelon, and peach, with a hint of flowers and dry, stony minerals. Round, ripe, yet lithe flavors of crisp berries and fruit salad. Decent acidity and freshness for such a ripe style of rosé. Absolutely pure tasting, just off-dry finish. Very nice summer sipper. 88. Was $15 at Spec's on Smith. Imported by Neal Rosenthal Selections.

2007 di Lenardo REFOSCO "Dal Vigneto da Lis Maris" (Friuli, Italy)

A very interesting wine and a good value. Very chameleon-like, changing dramatically as it aired out.

Dark black ruby. Closed at first, but with air and poured through a Vinturi, it developed a gorgeous nose of cinnamon-scented, warm, moist, intensely minerally gravel, along with very nice blackberry and plum fruit. Very soft and mouthfilling, yet with a certain weightless character. Medium-bodied, nicely balanced, with lost of ripe berry fruit and spiced sandstone in the finish.

(The next day, it was still very good, but had developed an incredibly intense dried herbal streak, and with some noticeable green bell pepper flavors in the mouth.)

89. Was about $12 at Central Market. Imported by Virtuoso Selections, Austin.

Note: There is some debate whether Refosco is the same grape known as Mondeuse in the Savoie region of France.

Rosé Time!!

I love good rosé in the Houston summertime. It gives some of the flavor of a light red, but you can drink it well-chilled on days when it's just too damn hot to pop a red.

But make sure they're fresh. 99% of rosés need to be drunk young. By summertime, rosés from the prior year's vintage should be arriving in stores. So be looking for the 2009s, and avoid any more 2008s or older. I've finished off a few of my remaining 2008s recently, and they have been flat and starting to taste over-the-hill, so I haven't written them up. I've just picked up a few 2009s and plan to be reviewing them in the next month.

Cent anni!

2009 Yalumba SANGIOVESE ROSÉ (South Australia)

A solid, fresh, nicely-textured rose. Good value.

Vivid bubble gum pink color. Richly fruity nose -- grape, watermelon, cherry, and peach. Hint of minerals. Round and ripe, with medium-light body and lots of fleshy fruit. Just off-dry, but with decent enough acid to keep it from being cloying. Shortish but soft and clean finish. A nice, easy-going summer quaffer. Was $9.99 at Houston Wine Merchant. 86.

2006 Domaine Louis Jadot PERNAND-VERGELESSES "Clos de la Croix de Pierre" Premiere Cru (White Burgundy, France)

A superb and very distinctive white.

Light pewtery-tinged gold color. Intensely mineral-infused, smoky, earthy nose, with clove and peach pit notes. Soft, broad, and slightly viscous (in a good way) in the mouth, yet with a lovely, light feel. Rich, long flavors of butter, minerals, stones, and slightly bitter-edged peach/pear fruit. Lots of the clove notes throughout. Love the texture and the unique flavors.

Pernand-Vergelesses is, in my view, one of the most underrated white burgundy towns in France. Very near the much more expensive and famous Corton-Charlemagne vineyard, the best Pernands share some of the distinctiveness of its more expensive neighbor's expression of Chardonnay fruit. 90. Was $29 at Spec's on Weslayan (and on Smith). Imported by Kobrand.

2006 Ross Estate "Old Vine" GRENACHE (Barossa Valley, Australia)

I love Aussie old vine Grenaches, be they the massive, ultra-full-bodied style, or the more restrained yet still substantial style. This is more of the latter.

Dark blackish ruby garnet. Mature, complex nose of spice cake and pungent sandstone, along with a fair amount of blackberry juice. Intensely concentrated flavors, without the heaviness, however. Mouthfilling, nicely-textured richness, with spicy, ripe plums and dark berry flavors, followed by an intensely minerally, gravelly finish. Still some tannin remaining in the finish, but the nose, flavors, and color all seem developed to the degree where I don't recommend much further ageing in an attempt to get the rest of the tannins to drop. Drink over the next year. 88. Was $20 at Spec's on Smith.

2008 "Adega de Pias" (Alentejano, Portugal)

This blend of 50% Tempranillo and 50% Trincadeira (according to the importer's website) is direct and fruity. Worth the $9.99 price, and best drunk cool.

Vibrant, deep ruby with cherry red highlights. Sweet, plummy nose with slight earthy-stony and rhubarb notes. Pure and succulent on initial entry, with ripe, soft, very straightforward fruit, and a pleasing touch of bitterness in the finish. Medium bodied, and a bit low in acidity, this wine is for quaffing over the next six months or so. Was under $10 at Houston Wine Merchant. Imported by Small Vineyard Discovery Imports. 86.

2007 Viticcio CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

Wow! This was utterly classic Chianti. I wish I could find it in Houston.

Sultry dark black ruby. With substantial airing, it developed a fantastic nose of ripe cherry liqueur, spice cake, and incense-infused warm gravel. Complex and round, medium full-bodied. Had concentrated but lithe flavors of ripe cherry liqueur, tons of clean, stony minerals, and a lengthy, smoky cherry-skin finish. Some nicely-integrated soft tannin adds a welcome bit of structure. Good but unobtrusive acidity. 90. Imported by Massanois Imports, D.C. I got this for $17 from Zachy's in Scarsdale, N.Y. a few months ago.

(Sorry, 2006 shown)

2006 Chateau du Poytet MUSCADET DE SEVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE (Loire, France)

A textbook example of Muscadet, and it also showed that well-made Muscadet can take a little bottle age nicely.

Very light gold color. Great nose of lively lemon-lime and green apple fruit, along with a lightly earthy, creamed stone emulsion. Bone dry yet soft, ripe yet crisp, refreshing yet a little earthy, this wine nicely summed up the best of Muscadet. Clean, cleansing finish. Me likey. 88. Imported by Glazer's Wholesale, Dallas. Was $13.49 at Central Market several months ago, so I'm not sure if they still have it.

Couple of Rhones from the PERRINS

Based on past experience and these two wines, I think I have come to the conclusion that I am just not a fan of the Perrin winemaking style. I'm not talking about their estate wines, Chateau de Beaucastel CDP or Cru de Coudelet CDR, both of which I like a lot, but about the negociant line they have been making for the last 10 years or so. I have had maybe half a dozen over the last decade, and have found every single one of them too coarse and rustic for their own good.

2007 Perrin VINSOBRES "Les Cornuds" -- this Cotes du Rhone Villages from the village of Vinsobres had some serious dark flavors, but was way too coarse for me. Nice dark color, but the nose favored deep tones smoky, peppery, gravelly scents over the dark berries that were smothered underneath. Dense, very low-toned flavors, with lots of peppery notes and tannin running roughshod over the fruit. 83. Was about $18 at Spec's on Smith, I believe.

2007 Perrin COTES DU RHONE-VILLAGES -- In an interesting paradox, the cheaper Cotes du Rhone Villages ($9.84 at Spec's) was more pleasurable than the more expensive Vinsobres. Medium dark ruby with some violet. More fruit (berries, plums) on the nose, with some nice powdered stones and baking spices. Fleshy and medium bodies, but still with a bit of their trademark coarse tannin intruding, though definitely less so than the Vinsobres. 85.

Next time you can't find that corkscrew . . . .

Watch and learn:

http://www.wimp.com/wineshoe/

2007 Pillar Box Red (65% Shiraz, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot) (Padthaway, Australia)

Very good, if you like that super-extracted, super-ripe Aussie style. May be a bit much for some.

Completely saturated, nearly black plasma color. Sweet, deep, smoky, salty nose, with loads of graphite and dried blackberry sap scents. As it aired out, more fruit emerged, and the smoky, graphite elements receded. Very low-toned, dense flavors of salty sandstone-infused blackberry syrup attack the palate and then morph into smoky, liquid minerals in the back of the throat. Low acidity and a boatload of soft tannin. Huge and dense, this is a weighty mouthful. It was about $10 (I can't remember where, but it's widely available, appearing even in supermarkets). Not elegant, but no skimping on flavor. I gave it an 88, but some won't go for this style, and I admit that I have to be in the mood for it.

2008 La Salette VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO (Veneto, Italy)

A classic Valpo. Crisp, focused, flavorful, refreshing, with a touch of pleasant bitterness in the finish. A terrific summertime red that is best served cool.

Dark ruby garnet color. Lively nose of crunchy, crisp cherries and berries, with pungent crushed stone scents. Bone dry, yet brightly-fruited in the mouth, with crisp flavors of cherry, and a cleansing minerality. Good flavor persistence and excellent acidity. Light bodied. Lots of character in a totally refreshing style. 88. Was $16.99 at Houston Wine Merchant on South Shephard.

2007 Almira "Los Dos" "Old Vines" 85% Grenache, 15% Syrah (Campo de Borja, Spain)

This was a ridiculous buy! I forgot where I got the damn thing, but I know it was around $10.

Bright medium cherry/ruby. Ridiculously juicy nose ripe, tangy reduction of raspberries and pungent hot stones. Dense, lively fruit attacks the palate with loads of juicy raspberries and clean stones. Long, warm, totally pure-tasting finish with very good acidity, and no tannin to speak of. Very food-friendly. 89. Imported by Winebow.

Speaking of Zins . . .

Had two very good and very different Zins at Abe & Louie's in Boston last week. The 2007 Storybook Mountain "Mayacamas Range" was more forward than I expect from this winery, which made its reputation making crisp, tight Zins that needed bottle age to round out. It had very bright, focused, and pure Zinfandel fruit (ripe cherry and blackberry), but was very soft and drinkable, with a bit of residual sugar noticeable. The 2007 Ridge Geyserville was more subdued and low-toned, with more complexity and a no residual sugar by contrast. Both very good. Not sure which I preferred. I would probably rate both in the upper 80s.

My strip steak was just a bit beyond the medium rare I asked for, but was still flavorful and juicy.

2006 Chateau Montelena ZINFANDEL "The Montelena Estate" (Napa Valley, Cal.)

This was a very good, but somewhat atypical Zin. I thought it seemed more like a large-scaled, rich Bordeaux from Margaux or Pessac (Graves).

Laid-back darkish ruby color. Complex nose of smoky gravel, dark fruitcake, rich, ripe plums, and a bit of blackberry. Soft, deep, and low-toned flavors of baker's chocolate, really ripe plums, sandstone, and smoky minerals. Very full-bodied, with a bit of peppery heat from the alcohol (label says 14.4%), and some chewy tannin in the finish. Definitely at its peak. It was very good, and I'm certainly no winemaker, but it seems to me this would have be ridiculously great if the grapes were picked just a tad earlier, and the wine had a bit less heat and a bit more acidity to focus it. As it is, I'd say it's an 89. Was $26 at Spec's, I believe.

2008 Comte Lafon MACON (White Burgundy)

Another winner from this upscale producer. Classic Macon nose, flavors, and minerality.

Very light gold with light greenish glints. Fantastic nose of crisp white grapes, powdered stones, sweet minerals -- and I could swear there's the barest hint a hint of cinnamon back in there too. Crisp, yet full-bodied, with lots of body and a decent dollop of tangy acidity. Loads of lemony, green apple fruit, good weight and balance too. Not the most complex white burgundy, but a lovely and textbook example of what Macon should be (it should be a poor man's Chablis). 88. Imported by Becky Wasserman Selections. Was $19 (and worth it) at Spec's on Richmond.

(Sorry, 2007 shown.)

2006 Rancho Zabaco "Monte Rosso Vineyard" ZINFANDEL (Sonoma County, Cal.)

Disappointing for a wine from this vaunted plot of land. As I picked this out, one of the guys at Spec's on Bissonnet off-handed commented to me that the "wine guy" wasn't too impressed with this, but I blew off the comment, since I usually don't listen to random wine store employee recommendations. In this case, that was a mistake. It was decent, but not near worth 30 smackeroos.

Rich, violet-tinged dark ruby. Animated, deep and sweet nose of almost overripe, oozing blackberries and raspberries, with a barest whiff of sandstone. Broad, fat, low-acid flavors of simple dark raspberries that immediately coated the palate, faded a bit, and then re-appeared in a fairly long, metallic/minerally, slightly hot finish. Good, with lots of flavor, but a little flabby and simple. I expect Zins from Monte Rosso to have great structure and lots of minerally complexity. This tasted like it came from very ripe fruit grown on young vines. 86. Was $31 at Spec's on Bissonnet.

2008 Benaza MENCIA (Monterrei, Spain)

I don't believe I have ever had a wine made from the Mencia varietal, but if this is any indication of how they taste, I will look for more. A fruity, weighty, smooth good value.

Dark ruby with purply highlights. Fragrant and fruity, this wine's nose oozes rich berry sap scents, along with a scorched earth note. Enters the mouth with wonderful softness and weight, with a tight core of minerality and loads of ripe berry fruit. Full bodied, with a long, clingy finish. A wee bit o' tannin too. Mineral "tang" at the very end. Not super complex, but a satisfying mouthful. 88. Was $13 and change at Spec's on Richmond. Imported by Jose Pastor Selections (an up-and-coming Spanish importer).

2008 Palama "Arcangelo" SALICE SALENTINO (Puglia, Southern Italy)

Salice Salentino is an appellation in the heel of Italy's boot that has long produced well-balanced, well-fruited reds at reasonable prices. This is one of the best -- if not the best -- I've had.

Sultry dark ruby. Incredibly sweet, ripe nose, featuring oozing blackberries and super-ripe plums, baking spices, and sweetly-smoky embers. Round and soft in the mouth, with very good concentration, but also with nice balance. Fairly full bodied. Not completely dry, with just a touch of sweetness (although those used to drinking California Chardonnays will think it equally dry). Ever-so-lightly-pruney flavors of blackberry syrup, and dry, gravelly minerals. The finish features some significant, but soft, tannins, and a very small bit of peppery heat.

Now that I'm looking at these notes, they really don't reflect how much I enjoyed this wine. Don't be put off by some of the adjectives I used -- just buy a bottle.

89. Was $12.99 at Central Market. Imported by Small Vineyards.

(Sorry -- can't find a photo).

2008 Messmer SPATBURGUNDER TROCKEN (Rheinpfalz, Germany)

German Pinot Noir! German, for Pete's sake! And it was fun and tasty. Not to mention a unique conversation piece. And no, Pinot Noir (a/k/a Spatburgunder) is not something the Germans started growing because they thought Sideways was a cool movie. It's been grown there for many decades. Put a light chill on this 1 Liter bottle and bring it to a cook-out.

Very light ruby garnet. Spritely nose leaps out of the glass with sweet/sour cherries and smoky minerals. You can also almost smell the crisp acidity that follows once you take a sip. Bright, almost prickly mouthfeel. Really nice fruit/acid balance. Soft, tanninless texture, with refreshing cherry fruit and a minerally finish. 87. Was $19.99 for a liter bottle at Central Market (so that makes it "under $15" per hypothetical 750ml). Imported by Terry Thiese (top-flight importer of German wines). Drink this year to enjoy the freshness.

(Sorry, 2006 pictured)

2006 Tenuta San Antonio VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE RIPASSO "Monte Garbi" (Veneto, Italy)

A very well-done, full mature Ripasso.

Mature color. Dark garnet with rust highlights. Closed nose at first, but run through a Vinturi it displayed a complex bouquet of roasted meat, macerated dried cherries, licorice, and smoky pecan wood. Rich, low-toned, peppery flavors initially, with brandy-soaked plums; then lightening into earthy cherry/licorice flavors. Long, dry finish. At its apogee right now despite substantial tannin. Very distinctive and nice. Drink before 2010 is up. 89. Was $18 at Spec's on Smith.

2005 Chateau d'Archambeau GRAVES (Bordeaux, France)

A solid, workman-like red Bordeaux at a decent price.

Jet black ruby with the bare beginnings of brick at the rim. Fairly closed nose, even with air time and being poured through a Vinturi. Light intensity aromas of cassis, toasted oak, resin, and scorched earth. Broad mouthfeel, with medium-fine-grained tannins present throughout. Ripe but bone dry flavors: dry, dark blackberry, smoky gravel. Long, interesting, though not particularly soft finish, with a slightly bitter, scorched edge. Elegant is not a word that describes this wine, though it was pretty satisfying in an unpolished way. 85. Was about $15 at Spec's Warehouse on Westheimer and Commonwealth.

2008 Chateau Font-Mars PICPOUL DE PINET (Languedoc, Southern France)

A really nice, balanced and refreshing unoaked white from an arid, hot region more known for its gutsy reds.

Light, bright, brassy-gold.

Ripe, deep, tropical fruit-laden nose, with pineapple, banana, and notes of peach and lychee nuts. Dry and refreshing, with lots of pear fruit in the mouth, and a light, clean, stony minerality. Squeeze of lime at the end. Surprisingly well balanced, flavorful, and a great accompaniment to New Orleans "Barbequed Shrimp" (recipe). 88.

Was $11 and change at Spec's on Smith, making it an excellent buy. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler.

2007 Bernard Baudry CHINON "Les Granges" (Loire Valley, France)

A unique (totally organic) Cabernet Franc from this idiosyncratic appellation. I liked it, but it's not a wine for the masses.

Black garnet with ruby highlights.

Day 1 the nose had loads of farm-fresh, sweet manure scents amidst smoky machine oil and tangy forest berries. Day 2 was much more normal, with lots of crisp cherry fruit and minerals. So give this guy plenty of air if the manure thing isn't for you.

Bone dry in the mouth, but with lots of lean flavors of dry cassis extract and mineral oil. Long, lean finish, with medium body and very good acidity. 86.

Was $17 and change at Spec's on Smith several months ago, so I don't know if they still have it. A Louis/Dressner Selection.

2006 Hacienda Molleda Carinena (100% GARNACHA) (Spain)

A very nice, pure-tasting Spanish Grenache. (Astute readers have deduced by now that I am partial to Grenache-based wines, as I feel they tend to go well with a lot of the dishes my wife Liz and I cook.)

High-toned, yeasty raspberries on the nose, with notes of powdered stone and a squeeze of lemon.

Lots of clean, ripe fruit in the mouth -- raspberry and crisp cherry -- with a liquid mineral streak. Fair amount of tannin. Not a lot of depth in the mid-palate, but nicely-balanced and clean. 87.

I have a vague recollection I got this at Central Market a few weeks ago, and that it was around $15. But don't quote me on that. Imported by Partick Mata at Olé Imports (a really good, young importer of generally zesty-styled Spanish reds).

2008 Clos de la Roilette FLEURIE (Beaujolais, France)

A really nice, classic-style Beaujolais from the higher-falutin' appellation of Fleurie.

Light ruby color.

Classic nose of crushed stone-infused bright cherry candy and grapes. Good weight, full body, with aggressive yet soft flavors -- lots of stony minerals, crushed sea shells, and an intense streak of dry cherry extract. Good acidity provides nice lift. Textbook cru Beaujolais. 88.

Got it online at Zachys.com for $22. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections (one of the best).

2008 Monte Oton GARNACHA (Campo de Borja, Spain)

Another cheap and good Grenache from Spain.

Dark ruby color with violet highlights.

Gangly nose of crushed raspberries and rhubarb, laced with cinnamon-scented powdered stone.

Full-bodied, with decently-concentrated, low-toned fruit on initial entry, segueing into a crisp, minerally, slightly tannic finish. Lots of character, if not elegance, for this bargain basement price-point. 87. Was $7.99 at World Marketplace on Richmond neat the West Loop.

2006 Pope Valley Winery ZINFANDEL "Eakle Vineyard" (Napa Valley)

This is an excellent Zin at an excellent price! Big, ripe, and full, but not overblown.

Mature black ruby color. Rich, smoky blackberry jam nose, with some subtle scorched earth notes. Enters the mouth with palate-clinging, low-toned intense flavors of iodine, blackberry extract, and black pepper. Very full-bodied, with a long, low-acid peppery finish. A real mouthful and a great value at $15 and change at Spec's on Smith (I'll list it as "under $15). 89. Drink over the next year.

(Sorry, can't find a photo.)

2008 Schafer-Frohlich RIESLING Trocken "Bockenauer" (Nahe, Germany)

A terrific wine -- fragrant, vibrant, loads of flavor, and zingy as all get-out. I haven't had many Trockens (dry German wines) that I love, but this is one.

Light, silvery-gold streaked with bright, light green. Vivacious nose of limes, granny smith apples, crushed stones, and a hint of fresh tea leaves. Incredibly lively and crisp, with tightly-concentrated green apple/pear fruit. Long, minerally, pure finish. Loads of fruit, but dry and very crisp. Great fun with Asian food or as a hot weather sipper. 90. A Rudi Wiest Selection (He's a great German importer). Was about $25 at Spec's on Smith.

Sorry, 2007 shown.

2006 Kilakanoon GRENACHE "Prodigal" (Clare Valley, Australia)

A big, ripe bruiser of a Aussie Grenache (i.e., just the way I like 'em).

Dark ruby color. Ripe, open nose of sappy raspberry oozings, warm sandstone, and balsa wood. Open, soft, and expansive in the mouth, with broad flavors of ripe berry sap, salty sandstone, and again with the balsa wood (I could have just said it tastes like it smells, I guess). Long, warm finish. A big fleshy mouthful. Not a cerebral wine, but a hedonistic one. Was great with butterflied, grilled leg of lamb. 89. Was about $26 at Spec's on Smith. (Sorry, 2003 shown)

2006 Peachy Canyon ZINFANDEL "Westside" (Paso Robles, Cal.)

I love the bright feel and intense minerality of Paso Robles Zins. This is a textbook example, and with a reasonable price tag.

Medium dark ruby-plum color. Complex nose of equal parts pungent crushed stones and spicy black raspberry fruit, with a hint of brown sugar. Soft, yet with a leaner style than many of the weighty Zins that are being made these days. Long, minerally, peppery finish. Nice balance. A very food-friendly style of Zin. 88. Was $18 at Spec's on Richmond.

2007 Tabali CARMENERE Reserva (Limari Valley, Chile)

Yet another dynamite Chilean Carmenere.

Completely saturated plasma-like ruby crimson. Rich, ripe, sweet-scented nose of blackberry syrup, incense, and sweet, smoky gravel. Soft, yet weighty, with concentrated flavors of ripe blackberry and graphite, with a long, long finish. Loads of very fine-grained tannin to provide some physical structure. Full-bodied, but with the alcohol seemingly in check. Very, very nice. 90. Imported by SWG Imports, Bend, OR. Still trying to find the receipt. . . .

2006 San Felice CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

A textbook, classically-built Chianti.

Nearly saturated dark, crystalline ruby with a little garnet tint. Needs substantial air time (or to be poured through a Vinturi) for the nose to develop. Starts off closed and pungently minerally, but morphs into a classic nose of ripe chokecherries, minerally gravel, old barrel scents, and lemon zest. Soft as velvet and medium-bodied, with a refreshing lift in the mouth. Minerally/gravelly-infused cherry fruit. With just a tad bit more concentration, this would have been perfect! As it is, it's pure, refreshing, and has good length. Very little tannin is noticeable. Will make great drinking with a wide variety of Italian dishes over the next year. 88. Imported by Margaux and Associates. Was $16 and change at Spec's on Smith.

2006 Domaine Mas du Bouquet VACQUEYRAS (Rhone Valley, France)

This was a very good buy, particularly for a Vacqueyras (an excellent appellation sandwiched between Chateauneuf du Pape and Gigondas), which typically cost a bit more that a regular ol' Cotes du Rhone. This one is 60% Grenache 30% Syrah 10% Mourvèdre, according to the importer's website.

Beautiful black ruby/garnet. Gorgeously ripe, fruity nose, with loads of sappy blackberries, sweet cream, and freshly-cracked stones. Fruit attacks the palate gradually, building to a deep-toned, mouth-watering fruity richness, with iodine/earthy notes. Lots of soft tannin in the long, pure-tasting finish. Nice balance. 88. Was $12 at HEB on Buffalo Speedway (but I think I have also seen this at Whole Foods on Bellaire for a little more). Imported by Laurent Terrisson Wines.

PLAN PEGAU "Lot #2007" (Southern France)

This is a grenache-based blend from the Rhone area, made by a respected producer of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. It is a soft, fruity, fun-to-drink red that would go well with lots of foods.

Dark ruby color. Direct, fruity, juicy nose. Tangy raspberry and boysenberry syrup, with a spiced peat component. Medium-bodied but densely-fruited, with a fleshy texture and a light mouthfeel. Kind of like a very ripe Beaujolais made from Rhone varietals. Mineral and berry flavors accented by a forest floor note. 87. Good value at $11.50 at Spec's on Richmond. Imported by Hand-Picked Selections.

2006 Umani Ronchi "Casal di Serra" VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DE JESI Classico Superiore (Marche, Italy)

Probably better a year ago.

Medium light gold. Accessible, soft nose of pear/banana and sweet chalk. Round and soft, with full body and loads of earthy banana and pear-skin fruit, with a peppery, minerally, low acid, slightly flabby finish. Not bad, but I favor Verdicchios that are in a fresher, crisper, more minerally-stony style. 84. Was $16 at Houston Wine Merchant.

(Sorry, 2003 shown)

Great tasting of Silver Oak and Twomey wines

I was invited to a special private tasting last week with Daniel Baron, the winemaker at Silver Oak -- one of the most prestigious names in all of California winedom. For me, it was a real treat, because I have not attended many formal tastings since leaving the wine biz in the mid-1980s, and I actually have never had the pleasure of drinking a Silver Oak wine.

It occurred during my regular work hours, so I unfortunately had to religiously spit, but I enjoyed it immensely anyway. Not only were the wines very special (notes to follow), but Daniel Baron has been making wine in the highest eschelons for decades. As we were tasting, he regaled us not only with a wealth of winemaking information, but also some great anecdotes from his interesting career.

The wines comprised not only the two Silver Oak Cabernets (the Alexander Valley and the Napa Valley), but also from Twomey Vineyards, with is associated with Silver Oak, though it focuses on varietals other than Cabernet (a Sauvignon Blanc, several Pinot Noirs, and a Merlot). All the wines were either currently on the market or about to be released.

2008 Twomey Napa Valley SAUVIGNON BLANC -- from old vines formerly owned by the now defunct Stonegate Winery, this was a very tight, crisp, French-styled Sauvignon Blanc. Restrained nose with light earthy, toasty notes and citrusy fruit. Crisp as all heck in the mouth, with a pervasive minerality and a refreshing style. Long, lean finish. Would be a dynamite accompaniment to sweet shellfish such as shrimp or scallops.

The following Pinot Noirs are denominated by regional appellation only, as they are blended from multiple vineyards within the designated region.

2008 Twomey Santa Barbara PINOT NOIR -- Tart and very tight. Gorgeous light pomegranate ruby color. Bright, nervous nose of sappy yet crisp cherries. High acidity, razor-like focus, but good ripeness. Long cherry-skin finish. (Daniel said this P.N. was from the coolest climate of the four, and will open up with time.)

2008 Twomey Anderson Valley PINOT NOIR -- Slightly darker color. Deeper, sappier nose, with spice and earth notes. Lower-toned flavors, with more earthy, humus (not hummus) notes. Longer finish too. Drinking well already.

2008 Twomey Sonoma Coast PINOT NOIR -- Darker still, with purply-ruby hues. Sweeter, riper nose, with lots of fruit and cinnamon. Broader, expansive mouthfeel, with lots of secondary flavors already showing up in addition to great, sappy Pinot fruit. Tightens up in the long finish. Needs a little time to get itself fully together, but already very tasty.

2008 Twomey Russian River PINOT NOIR -- Wow! Of all these appellations, Russian River is usually my least favorite, but this was fantastic. Great fruit on the nose. Gobs of focused, ripe cherry and a few other berries in the background. Round, silky, and concentrated in the mouth, but with a light feel. Lovely, pure fruity, soft and extra-long finish. Great balance.

2006 Twomey Napa Valley MERLOT -- I'm not usually a huge Merlot guy, but this ROCKED! From a single vineyard in SE Napa near Stag's Leap (Daniel said the soil is very poor, volcanic pumice), made only with French clones of Merlot, and aged in French oak. An elegant, blackish ruby color. Intense, focused blackberry fruit on the nose. Tight in the mouth, with ripe fruit but avoiding any jamminess or perceptible residual sugar. Lots of gravelly, stony notes, and gobs of very fine-grained tannins. Full-bodied, with fantastic length. I thought this was very much like a top growth St. Emilion or Pomerol. I probably would not have picked this out as a California wine if I didn't know what it was.

All the Twomey reds will retail at $50. (I can't remember what he said the Sauvignon Blanc sells for.)

2005 Silver Oak Alexander Valley CABERNET SAUVIGNON -- As all Silver Oak Cabs, this was 100% Cabernet and aged in 100% American Oak (50% was new for this wine). Dark black ruby color. Rich, earthy, cigar box, and humus notes along with ripe, dark fruit. Ripe and rich in the mouth, but with a nice, tight, concentrated core of fruit. Nice structure and balance. A very complete wine.

2004 Silver Oak Napa Valley CABERNET SAUVIGNON -- Very sedate color. Fantastic and unique nose, with sweet, perfumey cassis and cigar leaf, and a deep-toned inky component. Lots of minerally gravel notes in the mouth, with great focus and concentration. Impeccable balance. Still a fair amount of tannin, but a soft texture nonetheless. Very long finish.

Finally, Daniel explained a unique cork quality program that Silver Oak has instituted. I was amazed at how much thought and empirical data went into it, and the result, he said, was that, for their 750 ml bottles, the incidence of corked wine has been reduced from 2% (which seemed already pretty low to me), to an unheard of 0.67%. He also mentioned that for each and every bottle of 3L or larger, the corks are individually inspected! Amazing attention to quality.

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All in all, a great experience!

2008 Elementos GARNACHA (Calatayud, Spain)

Another very good value, food-friendly Grenache from Calatayud. Surprise, surprise.

Dark ruby with a purple tinge near the rim. Lively, youthful nose of raspberries, pungent minerals, and scorched earth. Full-bodied, aggressively fruity flavors (mostly raspberry) attacking the palate with earnest determination. A really good weekday night pasta or stew wine. 87. Was $8.99 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

(Sorry, can't find a photo).

2007 Domaine du Bagnol CASSIS (Provence, France)

A flavorful, balanced, easy-going white from a tiny appellation near Marseille.

Light, bright gold. Ripe, soft nose of earthy peach and pear fruit, flowers, and bath powder. A soft, broad, low-acid mouthfeel, with ripe apple/pear fruit and a clean, lightly-minerally finish. Very easy to drink. Were it cheaper, it would be a great party white with broad appeal, and would also be ridiculously good with spicy Asian food. 88. Was $25 at Spec's on Smith, making it kind of pricy for such a casual style. Imported by Neal Rosenthal Selections.

2004 Optima CABERNET SAUVIGNON (Alexander Valley, Cal.)

Disappointing. An over-ripe, over-extracted, over-oaked behemoth. I usually love well-made Alexander Valley Cabs for their easy going texture, ripe berry fruit, and loamy gravel notes, but this had none of those qualities.

Nearly saturated black, black ruby. Rich nose of intensely oaky, scorched earth, with lots of baker's chocolate. Very little fruit. Tannic, massive, highly extracted flavors, again with little fruit and almost all inky, baker's chocolate flavors and lots of peppery heat from the too-high alcohol in the back of the throat. D. Was $18 from Wines 'til Sold Out. (I have 3 more bottles, so if the others turn out better, I will update with a new post. If not, I have a lot of expensive cooking wine).

2005 Chateau de Peyremorin (Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux)

A decent Bordeaux, but not a repeat purchase.

Dark ruby garnet with a tad bit of amber at the rim. No nose at first, but run through a Vinturi, it showed medium-intensity aromas of dark cherry, scorched earth, and smoky autumn leaves. A leaner, bone-dry style, with tight, dry black cherry fruit and some gravelly minerality. A fair amount of noticeable tannin. Probably not going to get any better. 85. Was about $15 at Spec's Warehouse on Westheimer and Montrose.

2007 Louis M. Martini CABERNET SAUVIGNON (Sonoma County)

This is the entry level Cabernet from this widely-available winery, and it's a solid effort.

Dark, blackish ruby. Ripe, inviting nose of ripe blackberry and sweet cream. Rich, mouthfilling blackberry fruit, with lots of soft, minerally-tinged tannin clinging to the palate. Not a complex or serious Cab, but satisfying, balanced, and fun to drink. 87. I believe I got this at Randall's on Weslayan for about $16, but it's available just about everywhere.

2006 Domaine Sorin BANDOL (Provence, France)

A very solid, classic Mourvedre from this appellation.

Very blackish ruby. Classic Bandol nose of smoky blackberry under a veneer of tree bark, with a touch of sweet cream. Tannic and ripe, with inky, palate-clinging flavors of dry blackberry extract, iodine, and gravel. Long, tannic finish. Needs another 2-4 years to soften and develop. 88+. Was about $26 at Spec's on Richmond. Imported by Bandol Wines LLC, of Houston.

2008 Ranch Zabaco ZINFANDEL "Sonoma Heritage Vines" (Sonoma County, Cal.)

Simple and grapy, but with a lot of flavor.

Nearly saturated purplish dark ruby. Nose of sweet crushed red grapes and boysenberries, with a touch of pine resin and sweet cream. Round, ripe, and soft, with simple, fruity, direct flavors. Full-bodies, with some tannin for physical structure underneath the thick fruit. Gutsy and direct, but not as complex as this wine usually is. 86. Decent value at $12.99 (just about everywhere).

2006 Quinta do Alqeve "Tradicional" (Ribatejo, Portugal)

I drank and enjoyed the 2001 of this several years ago, but this iteration was disappointing.

Thin, tight, with altogether too much acidity (much of it volatile acidity, i.e., acetic acid), with little redeeming flavor. Avoid. F.

2006 Tres Valles CARMENERE Reserve (Curico Valley, Chile)

Another very good Carmenere at a fair price.

Completely saturated black ruby, shot-through with violet. Richly-sweet scents of blackberry syrup, moist tobacco leaves, and gravel. Round and thickly-textured, but with very good balance. Loads of sweet cassis and blackberry fruit, augmented with a sweet-smokey, oaky note, and some minerals in the finish. Kind of like an over-the-top Graves. 88. Was $14 and change at Spec's on Smith. Imported by Fleischer International.

(Sorry, no photo) (it's a gold label).

2008 Commanderie de la Bargemone COTEAUX D'AIX EN PROVENCE ROSE (Provence, France)

An excellent rosé from this consistently very good Provençal winery.

Very light copper color with pinkish highlights. Terrifically fruity nose -- watermelon juice, fruit salad, undergirded with steely minerals. Mouthfilling, with a soft texture, but a tight flavor profile, featuring bone dry and very clean fruitiness. Long, stony/fruity finish, with good balancing acidity. Was refreshing and a great accompaniment to spicy Chinese take-out. 88. Imported by Hand Picked Selections (Dan Kravitz). Was $12 at Spec's on Smith.

2007 Kermit Lynch Selection CÔTES DU RHÔNE (France)

This was a very fine Côtes du Rhône, specially formulated for the excellent importer Kermit Lynch.

Brilliant dark ruby. Tight nose was pungently earthy at first, but opened into a gorgeously fresh-fruit nose of just-picked raspberries and blueberries, with notes of sea shell-scented gravel. Dry and lean in the mouth, but with resiny, fruity, earthy flavors that cling to the palate. A bit more concentration and weight in the mid-palate would have made this exceptional, but as it is, it's very good. 88. Was $17 at Houston Wine Merchant on South Shepherd. (sorry, 2006 pictured)

2006 Bleasdale "Langhorne Crossing" (52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Malbec, 15% Shiraz, 6% Petit Verdot) (Langhorne Creek, Aus.)

A good everyday dinner wine. Fruity, flavorful, soft, balanced.

Bright, deep ruby color. Yeasty, fruity nose -- black raspberries and sweet blackberry. Medium full body, with direct blackberry and ripe cassis flavors. Also a hint of scorched earth. Clean, fruity, steely-minerally finish. Virtually no tannin to speak of. 86. Was $12 at Whole Foods on Bellaire (also available at the same price at HEB on Buffalo Speedway).

2008 Castillo de Almansa GARNACHA Tintorera (Almansa, Spain)

This was an excellent buy at Houston Wine Merchant (on South Shepherd). Showing an interesting flavor profile for a Spanish Grenache in that it wasn't as directly "raspberry fruity" as many.

Very dark, nearly saturated black ruby. Intense and direct nose of equal portions of raspberries and tomato skins, with some lemony, smoky scents as well. Low-toned, dry flavors of dark berries and iodiney minerals. Long, peppery finish with a pleasant hint of bitterness, and a bit of tannin for a Grenache. Very flavorful and athletic. 87. Drink over the next year. Was $10.99 at Houston Wine Merchant. Imported by Winebow. (Sorry, 2007 shown).

2005 Trentadue ZINFANDEL (Sonoma County)

This blend of fruit from the Alexander Valley and other Sonoma locations is a very good value in a fully mature Zin.

Dark, blackish ruby. Intense, low-toned nose: Smoky balsa wood, rick blackberries, and loamy, minerally gravel. Deep, rich, ripe, and peppery, with low-toned flavors of dark black fruits, and a long, smoky, ripe finish. Can still sense a bit of tannin. 88. Was about $14 at Spec's on Smith.

2006 Cabriz DAO (Portugal)

A pretty solid Dao, and a good value. Note: this wine requires lots of air-time (or to be poured through a Vinturi) to open up.

Dark ruby. Interesting, medium-intensity nose of spiced gravel, dark cherries, and lemony chalk. Focused and balanced, with minerally dark cherry and blackberry fruit. Medium-bodied, with a nicely-balanced finish, and decent length. 87. $10.99 at Houston Wine Merchant. Imported by Aidil Wines, Newark, NJ.

2006 Clos des Rochers AUXERROIS (Luxembourg)

I haven't had a wine from this very good producer in a few years, and this remains as good a value as it was then. Auxerrois, by the way, is a relative of the Pinot Blanc grape.

Bright, light gold color. Earthy, honeyed nose, with toasty straw notes and pear/apple fruit. Round and loaded with fresh, earthy minerals in the mouth, with some interesting sour pear skin fruitiness and pretty good acidity. Almost Maconnais in style. 86. About $16 at Spec's on Smith. Imported by Glazer's Wholesale in Dallas.

PS -- the Riesling from this estate is usually a good value in an dry, Alsace style wine as well.