Sunday, June 25, 2006

2003 Nino Jesus "FIGARO" Calatayud (Spain)

Although the label doesn't say, I believe that this wine is mostly or all Grenache. It is "an inconvenient truth" that the 2003 vintage was the hottest ever recorded in most of Europe, including Spain, with the result that many of the reds -- particularly from hot growing regions -- are a bit out of balance. And despite the fact that I've said "caveat emptor" as to these wines, I just can't resist a cheap Spanish grenache brought in by a good importer (in this instance, Kysela). This one was pretty good, but the heat of 2003 baked it a bit too much. Dark ruby softening to brick at the rim. Fragrant nose of warmed sweet cream, mulled raspberry juice, and white pepper. On the palate it was soft, rich, and peppery, with low acid flavors of baked raspberries. Some heat and astringency on the finish (which, along with sharp tannins, can peg southern European wines as being from the 2003 vintage) keep this one from being a repeat purchase. 85. Was $7.99 at Central Market.

1 comment:

Dionysus said...

Such exaltations! "warmed sweet cream", "mulled raspberry juice"?