Medium dark ruby garnet color. Nice nose of ripe, macerated cherries and loads of clean stoniness. Clean, fresh, and intense in the mouth. Lots of ripe, winey cherries, a light, cedary component, and loads of minerality in the very long, lively finish. fairly full-bodied, and with a decent amount of soft tannins. Very nice. Drink over the next 18 months. B+. I got this while at 2 Amy's Pizza in DC (excellent Neapolitan pizza) for $40. I would think it would retail between $15-20. Imported by daGrazia Imports, Winston-Salem, NC.
An idiosyncratic journal of wines I buy from a mix of Internet sources and retailers in the Northern Virginia/D.C. area. Mostly inexpensive and moderately-priced stuff, reflecting my frugal New England roots. Cent anni!
Thursday, August 08, 2013
2011 Tenuta delle Terre Nere ETNA ROSSO (Sicily, Italy)
Medium dark ruby garnet color. Nice nose of ripe, macerated cherries and loads of clean stoniness. Clean, fresh, and intense in the mouth. Lots of ripe, winey cherries, a light, cedary component, and loads of minerality in the very long, lively finish. fairly full-bodied, and with a decent amount of soft tannins. Very nice. Drink over the next 18 months. B+. I got this while at 2 Amy's Pizza in DC (excellent Neapolitan pizza) for $40. I would think it would retail between $15-20. Imported by daGrazia Imports, Winston-Salem, NC.
2011 Domaine de la Colline CHINON (Loire Valley, France)
A light, lively, flavorful wine. I really liked it.Very dark, jet black-ruby color. Textbook Chinon/Cab Franc nose of black cherry, dry underbrush, and a note that wavers between machine oil and toasted walnut oil. Smooth and lively in the mouth, with intense flavors but in a medium-bodied frame. Bone dry black cherry extract, loads of rocky minerals with a very slightly bitterish edge. Long, pure finish. Lots of soft micro-tannin adds a little texture as the finish fades. B+. Not sure what this would cost at retail, but it was $33 at Bistro du Coin in DC. Imported by Monsieur Touton Selections.
Sunday, August 04, 2013
2010 Three Wine Company MATARO "Spinelli Vineyard" (Contra Costa County, Cal.)
From 125 year-old vines, this is a composed, low-toned, rich red. Complex, intense, and smooth.Very dark black-ruby. Complex nose of toasted baking spices, rich blackberry, and pungent rock dust. Low-toned and quite concentrated, this wine has rich flavors of ripe blackberry and dark minerals. Pretty good acids for such a weighty wine. Very full, and there's very slight peppery bite of alcohol at the end (heck, it is 15.2% for Pete's sake). This will drink nicely for at least another 2 years, maybe more -- but with wines with this much alcohol, I'm always nervous about long aging, because the alcohol seems to take over after a few years and burn through the fruit. B+. Got this for $22 and change from Wineaccess.com as part of a mixed half-case of Three Wine Company wine
several months ago.
Friday, August 02, 2013
2012 Domaine La Rabiotte COTEAUX D'AIX EN PROVENCE ROSE (Southern France)
A fresh, lively, fun-to-drink rosé.Light salmon pink color. Fruity nose of watermelon, grapes, and strawberry, with a little metallic/mineral note. Bone dry, rather full, with decent acidity. Very slightly bitterish watermelony/cherry fruit flavors (I like the slight bitterness, or else the wine would have been too simple.) Clean, refreshing finish. A definite summer cookout rosé. B. Was $11.99 at Total Wine in Fairfax, VA. Imported by Saranty Imports, White Plains, NY.
Wednesday, July 31, 2013
2011 Truscott "Old Vine" ZINFANDEL (Mendocino County, Cal.)
This is a very burgundian-styled (that is to say, Pinot Noir-styled) Zinfandel. I this was served blind to me, I'd guess a solid village level wine from the Cote de Beaune or sure. Unusual, but very nice.Light, very crystalline ruby color. Medium intensity nose of sweet, sappy cherry, a little blackberry, dark baking spices, and a lightly-minerally note. Mouthfilling, but light on its feet, with very Bourgogne-like flavors of dry, sappy cherry extract and light stoniness. Very pure tasting. Fairly full bodied, and good acidity too. Bone dry. Good length. B+. Was $15.99 from Total Wine in Fairfax, VA. So it's a good value too. But drink up over the next year. It's not made to age.
Wednesday, July 24, 2013
2009 Ramon Valle "Peique" BIERZO (Spain)
This is another excellent value from Bierzo. Very minerally and clingy, with the sometimes rough tannins of Bierzo under control. I like that there's no overtly noticeable oak.Very dark ruby/violet. Gorgeously pure scents of violets and perfectly ripe blackberry juice poured over a pile of powdery crushed stone . . . with a note of dried citrus peel. Very concentrated flavors fill the mouth, but it's not heavy or jammy. Iodine, lightly scorched gravel, and blackberry skins. Loads of soft tannin provide nice texture. Full bodied. Long, clingy, chewy finish. B+. Imported by Classic Wines, Stamford, CT, this wine was a remarkable $10.99 from WTSO.com. Get some.
(Sorry, 2008 shown).
Friday, July 12, 2013
2010 Raimbault SANCERRE "Vieilles Vignes" (Loire Valley, France)
This is a terrific, crisp, fragrant, flavorful white. One of the nicest Sancerres I've had in years.Light gold color. Amazing nose of crushed limestone, wet clay, gooseberries, green apples, and a citrusy component. Bone dry, with intense but mouth-wateringly crisp flavors, showing chalky minerals, a saline note, green apply fruit, and a blazingly pure, long, 'nuther-sip-inducing finish. Love it. A. Was $22.99 from WTSO.com, and well-worth it. Imported by Sege Dore Selections.
(Sorry, 2009 shown)
Labels:
90 or better,
Loire Whites,
Sauvignon Blanc
Wednesday, July 10, 2013
UPDATE: 2010 Thunevin-Calvet "Cuvee Constance" COTES DU ROUSSILLON-VILLAGES (Southwest France)
This wine, which I previously reviewed several months ago, has softened and opened up appreciably. It now warrants an A-. Fragrant, intense, very linear, loads of intense stony minerals. Very clingy flavor persistence. I have one bottle left, which I'll try to hold off on drinking for at least another year.
Labels:
90 or better,
Carignane,
Grenache,
Southwest France,
Under $15
Saturday, July 06, 2013
2010 Three Wine Company OLD VINE FIELD BLEND (Contra Costa County, Cal.)
I really like old vine reds from the freakishly deep sands of Contra Costa County. They really represent a unique American terroir. This wine is composed of 100+ yr. old vines from 26% Zinfandel, 25% Petite Sirah, 25% Mataro, 20% Carignane, 3% Alicante Bouschet and 1% Black Malvoisie. And it's really good.Very dark, plasma-like ruby/violet. Enchanting nose of rich berries, cocoa powder, minerals, and ashy embers, with a single line of tangy rhubarb at the end. Rich, low-toned, and darkly berryish, with a the cocoa component still there. It's quite dry, with lots of soft tannin coating the sides of the mouth. And despite the 15.2% alcohol, there's some very nice acidity buoying everything up. Although this winery's single varietal wines tend to be a little more expensive than its "field blend," I think I usually like the field blend a little more. A-. If I'm remembering correctly, I think I got this several months ago for around $18 from WineAccess.com.
Sunday, June 30, 2013
2010 Simmonet-Fevre CHABLIS PREMIER CRU MONTMAINS (Northern Burgundy, France)
This is a big, extroverted Chablis. Very pale gold. Nose burbling over with green apple, peach, lemon, and chalky minerals. Fleshy, flashy, and vigorous in the mouth. The first day the fruit was at the fore, and it seemed ripe, intense, and somewhat simple. But the next day, the minerals were out in force, with intense chalky-stoniness overshadowing the still ample fruit. The first night it seemed almost -- unusually for a Chablis -- like there was a bit of residual sugar, but as it aired, that sweetness decreased. By the second day it seemed bone dry. Good acids for such a large-limbed Chablis. What it lacks in complexity and elegance it makes up in sheer force and vigor. B+. Drink over the next 2 years, over which it will probably gain a bit of complexity. Was $21.99 from WTSO.com, and imported by Louis Latour, San Rafael, CA.
Tuesday, June 25, 2013
2010 Tommasi "Vigneto Rafael" VALPOLICELLA (Veneto, Italy)
This wine has been consistently very good, year-after-year, since I can remember first trying it (in the early 80s). It usually walks a line somewhere between the lighter, fresher regular Valpos many wineries offer as their entry level wine and their somewhat denser, riper, earthier Ripassos. The 2010 is really nice.Vibrant ruby with a purply tinge. Gobs of ripe, dark, crunchy berry fruit on the nose. The first night, the fruit obscured all else. Then I left it under a Vacu-Vin for 48 hours, and it had developed some of the almondy characteristics frequently associated with Valpos. Wonderful concentration and vibrancy in the mouth; a wine that just begets sip after sip, and would pair with all sorts of meals. Nice length and wonderful purity. A-. Was $16.99 at Total Wine in Fairfax, VA. Imported by Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, NY.
Tuesday, June 18, 2013
2009 Jean-Paul Brun CÔTE DE BROUILLY "Terres Dorées" (Beaujolais, France)
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Dark ruby color. Really rich nose of dark mixed berries and lots of clean stony and vaguely foresty notes. Soft, lithe, and intensely fruity in the mouth initially, showing lots of pure berry fruit, then the mineraliness kicks in quickly and clings tenaciously to the tongue and the insides of your cheeks. Pretty full bodied for a Beaujolais (probably due to the warm '09 growing season), but with good purity and liveliness, despite low-ish acids for a Beaujolais. A-. Drink over the next 8-12 months. Was $18.99 from Wine Exchange, Los Angeles, Cal. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections.
Monday, June 10, 2013
2010 Buti Nages COSTIERES DE NIMES (Rhone Valley, France)
Deep ruby with purply highlights. Lively, straightforward nose of crunchy, ripe dark berries and clean stony mineraliness. Lovely, tight, ripe berry fruit in the mouth. Very soft. Decent acids, and some very fine tannins for a bit of structure on the finish. Not complex, but fun to drink and flavorful. Calls out for mesquite-grilled grilled burgers. B/B+. Was $9.99 at Total Wine in Fairfax. Imported by Saranty Imports, White Plains, NY.
Sunday, June 09, 2013
2008 Santbru MONTSANT "Carinyenes Velles" (Catalunya, Spain)
A deep, full-bodied, minerally, fully-mature and smooth red. Think of this as a Spanish Gigondas from a very warm vintage.Almost jet black, fully saturated color . . . ruby adds the highlights to the black, rather than the other way around. Striking, low-toned nose of a squished carton of uber-ripe blackberries, whisked together with crushed stones and a hint of dark baking spices. Massively rich in the mouth, with dark, brooding flavors of dark stones and blackberry syrup/skin extract. Great intensity yet not overblown. Dry and full-bodied, sporting a texture akin to hot chocolate due to loads of medium-fine-grained tannins. It went well with a braised brisket. This is a wine that will overpower anything less than a stew or pot roast type dinner, although it may pair well with after dinner cheese too. Drinking very well now, this wine will soften further over the next 2 years. B+. Was $14.99 from WTSO.com. Imported by Classic Wines, Stamford, CT.
(Sorry, 2007 shown)
Wednesday, June 05, 2013
2008 Castello di Bibbione CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA (Tuscany, Italy)
Luxurious-looking saturated dark ruby. Rich nose of tangy but ripe black raspberries and black cherries, with sweet-scented smoky-gravelly notes. Mouthfilling dark cherry fruit, quickly molting into loads of chalky, stony minerals. Bone dry, with lots of fine-grained tannin and lots acidity, giving it a lean, muscular, very vigorous mouthfeel. Lots of crushed stones as the finish resolves. A-. Youthful but starting to drink very well now, this wine will improve over the next three years in a cool cellar. Was $18.99 from WTSO.com, which is cheap for a CC Riserva. Imported by Castelli del Gevepesa, Manhasset, NY.
Labels:
90 or better,
Chianti,
Italian Reds,
Sangiovese
Thursday, May 30, 2013
2009 Chateau L'Ermitage COSTIERES DE NIMES (Rhone Valley, France)
Dark, black-ruby. Nose full of ripe, rich blackberry essence and pungent, slightly scorchy minerally-stony scents. Very soft and mouthfilling, with nose-paralleling, bone dry blackberry and scorched gravelly flavors, along with a dry underbrush component. Full-bodied, but with good balancing acids. A bit drying as the latter half of the finish, but this is a minor quibble, particularly if, like me, you're using this wine to wash down a bowl of pasta-and-meat sauce, or some such dish. B/B+. Was $9.99 at Total Wine in Fairfax. Imported by Saranty Imports.
Sunday, May 26, 2013
SPANISH BRAISED CHICKEN WITH SPINACH/ALMOND PUREE
I made this up the other night, and had the Aglianico reviewed below with it. I think I read a recipe that had the spinach/almond thing a few years ago, so I can't take credit for that concept.
½ chicken,
but up into 5 pieces
1
bunch spinach, washed thoroughly
Good
handful raw almonds
¼ large
red onion, minced
2
cloves garlic, lightly crushed
¾ cup
dry sherry (fino or manzanilla)
¾ cup
chicken broth
Olive
oil salt pepper
Toast up the
almonds in a dry skillet or in the oven for 3-4 minutes. Don’t burn.
Put in a bowl and set aside to cool.
Season the
chicken pieces with salt and pepper, then brown well in a bit of olive oil a sauté
pan. When you flip them, add the
garlic. Try not to let the garlic burn
too much while the chicken is browning or it will get bitter. When the chicken is nicely browned, turn up
the heat and add the sherry and broth, bring to a boil for 1-2 minutes, then
turn down to very low and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes.
While the
chicken’s simmering, splash 2-4 tablespoons of olive oil in a large coverable
skillet or pot, and add the onions.
Soften over medium-low heat until they start to color. Add the spinach with whatever water is
clinging to the leaves (or, if the leaves are dry, add ¼ cup water), mix well
with the sautéed onions and then cover and turn the heat down to low and stem
until wilty-soft (5-6 minutes).
While the
spinach is steaming, put the cooled toasted almonds in a food processor and
pulse until finely ground. When the
spinach/onion mixture is done, squeeze out most of the liquid into a bowl, reserving the
liquid). Then add the spinach
mixture to the food processor and pulse until it’s pureed with the almonds.
After the
chicken has simmered for 30 minutes covered, turn the pieces and continue to
simmer over low heat for 15-20 more minutes with the cover slightly askew.
When the chicken’s
done, remove the pieces from the pan, and put them in a nice serving dish (the
serving dish should be warm). Season the
braising liquid in the pan liberally with salt and pepper. Return the pan to the heat and then mix in
the pureed spinach/onion/almond mixture.
If there’s not much braising liquid left add some of the reserved
spinach water. When this sauce is heated
through, pour over the chicken pieces. Taste to see if the sauce needs more salt and pepper, since the spinach/almond puree needs a lot of both. Serve over rice.
Serves 2-3 people, depending how big the chicken is.
Saturday, May 25, 2013
2008 Vigna Alta AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE (Southern Italy)
A very good value, this wine is fragrant, soft, full-flavored, and has a bit of complexity. Hard to beat at $12.99.Very dark black ruby. Surprisingly youthful-looking for a 5-year old wine. With air, the nosy displays lots of smoky, fragrant embers and sun-dried gravel, together with very nice blackberryish fruit. Fairly full-bodied, but with excellent acidity for a southern Italian red, it got ripe, winey, dark berry fruit, with a nice gravelly overlay. Fairly long finish, and loads of palate-refreshing acids. This will work very well with pasta and meat sauce, or Italian tomatoey braises. B+. Got this from WTSO.com. Imported by Superior Wines, Cranford, NJ.
Thursday, May 23, 2013
2011 Saladini Pilastri OFFIDA Pecorino (Marche, Italy)
I have drunk some Pecorinos before, but this is the first I've heard about "Offida" being a DOC . . . "G" to boot! Pecorino is a white Italian varietal that's typically fragrant, fruity, crisp, and simple. This one is a very nice example.Light brassy gold color. Fragrant nose of pears, citrus zest, chalky minerals, and a fleeting note that reminded me of the smell of largemouth bass slime (fishermen will know what I'm talking about). A weird note in this context, but not unpleasant. Mouthfilling, dry, gentle flavors of pear and minerals. Very clean in the mouth. I think this was about $12.99 at Total Wine in Fairfax. Imported by Saranty Imports, White PLains, NY.
Sunday, May 19, 2013
2010 Columbia Crest CABERNET SAUVIGNON "Grand Estates" (Columbia Valley, Washington)
A simple but very flavorful red that shows off a very sweet, black cherryish side of Cabernet. This wine does not skimp on flavor. My main criticism is some noticeable residual sugar.Black black ruby. Nose dominated by sweet, very ripe black cherry syrup scents, along with some nice fruitcake notes. In the mouth, loads of very ripe black cherry and blackberry fruit, but little else. Mercifully, no oakiness, but this wine, while very flavorful, is very simple. While I got this at a chain restaurant (CPK) for $24, I imagine it should be around $10 in stores and supermarkets. I'd rather drink this wine, which is true to its grapes, than some god-awful chocolatey, cab in the same price (that got its oak from chips), it's still way too simple to be recommended. C+.
(Sorry, 2007 shown).
2010 Pithon-Paille CHINON "Vieilles Vignes" (Loire Valley, France)
A really zesty wine that is both drinking well now and will age. Keeps changing as it gets exposed to more and more air.Black ruby purple color. The first night, it showed mostly the typical mineral oil, toasted walnut oil, and brambly underbrush I associate with Cab Francs from this northerly clime. Then after two days under a Vacu-Vin, it started to display a lot more tangy, black cherry fruit. It kept evolving over that third night, hitting notes of licorice and barnyard at various times, all the while keeping the faith with the black cherry fruit. Fantastic acids, keeping this thing tangy and electric on the palate. Bone dry, fresh, medium-bodied, soft-textured, and possessing a really pure, medium long finish. Very engaging. A-. Was $25.99 from Winex.com. Imported by Aliane Wines, San Diego.
Tuesday, May 14, 2013
2009 Domaine La Florane VISAN Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages (Southern France)
Liquid minerals! Terroir freaks will go ga-ga over this one. Actually, I did too. It's really fine.Very dark ruby but still with significant violet highlights. Incredibly mute upon first being poured without a Vinturi, it was a little more forthcoming when I used the Vinturi. But it still needed an hour to start showing itself. When it did, however, it was really nice. Nose completely dominated by all manner of minerals: powdered stone, liquid metallic/iodiney, and lightly scorched earth scent. Under all that tectonic stuff was some ripe, oozy, sultry blackberry fruit. In the mouth, the flavors immediately migrate, as though drawn by a powerful magnet, to the sides of the tongue and mouth, and tenaciously cling there, showing loads of melted minerals and hard blackberry jam candy fruit. Loads of soft tannin and decent acids provide the structure for the full-bodied wine. Very long finish. A. I really like this very unique style. Was $18.99 from WineAccess.com. Imported by Fleet Street Wine Merchants.
Saturday, May 11, 2013
2010 Paul Jaboulet Aine COTES DU RHONE "Parallel 45" (Rhone Valey, France)
This widely available Toyota Corolla of reds is, as almost always, a flavorful, good value. Not the most fragrant wine, but delivers lots of ripe, concentrated flavors in a very soft, easygoing style. 60% Grenache/40% Syrah.Nearly fully-saturated black ruby with still some violet glints. Reluctantly gives up subtle aromas of ripe blackberries and smoky sandstone. Concentrated rich fruit fills the mouth. Dark blackberry and scorched earth flavors. Loads of reasonably fine-grained (for a $12.99 wine) tannins. Long, clingy, if not very complex finish. This is a very good value. B/B+. Got this at Whole Foods in Arlington.
Thursday, May 09, 2013
2008 Domaine Dublere VOLNAY 1er CRU LES PITURES (Burgundy, France)
This is a complex, leaner styled Burgundy. Fragrant, balanced. All it lacks is a little more oomph in the mid-palate.Medium ruby color with garnet highlights, and some browning at the rim. With air, the nose reveals multiple scents: ripe yet slightly sour cherry, pleasantly subdued woody notes, damp, gravelly earth, maple syrup. Initially fills the mouth, then leans out quickly, but minerally, sour cherry syrup notes cling in the finish. A very nice wine to have with a roast chicken. Drink up over the next 18 months. B+. Imported by Chelsea Ventures, Chicago, this was $29.99 from Flickingerwines.com.
Monday, May 06, 2013
2011 Chapoutier "Bila-Haut" COTES DU ROUSSILLON VILLAGES (South Central France)
A fleshy, meaty, soft, wine that is full of character and modestly priced. Fantastic cookout wine.Dark blackish ruby with a slight violet tinge. Animated, ripe nose of meaty notes, ripe blackberries, and a combination of spice cake and warm crushed rocks and sandstone. Mouthfilling flavors, but fairly easy-going texture. Full body and lots of fine-grained tannins. Loads of pure blackberry skin fruit along with a very clingy, roasted herb/iodiney, minerals component that clings to the sides of the mouth. Long, pure finish. B+/A-. Was $12.99 at Whole Foods in Arlington/Clarendon. Imported by HB Wine Merchants, NY, NY.
Labels:
90 or better,
Languedoc-Roussillon,
Under $15
Thursday, May 02, 2013
2010 Domaine du Galet des Papes CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE "Vieilles Vignes" (Rhone Valley, France)
A deceptively easy-going yet potentially serious wine. Still very young, it is quite primary now but shows nice texture and very good length.Very dark ruby/violet. Straightforward scents of ripe blackberry and black raspberry fruit, accented by notes of hot stones and dry underbrush. Soft, mouthfilling, ripe, and full-bodied in the mouth. Lots of incredibly fine-grained nano-tannins. Very nice concentration and length with loads of licorice, cassis, and minerals. This wine will by dynamite in 2-4 years. B+(+). Was $24.99 from WTSO.com, making it a very good buy for a Rhone wine of this aging ability and class. Imported by Citadel Trading Co., NY, NY.
(Sorry, 2001 label shown, but the 2010 looks the same.)
Tuesday, April 23, 2013
2008 Talty ZINFANDEL "Estate" "William Talty Vineyard" (Dry Creek Valley, Cal.)
A vibrant, fruity, direct Zinfandel. Not overblown. Very nice on its own or with dinner. A bit pricey though. Surprisingly, comes in a Burgundy-shaped bottle.Dark ruby color. Intense, perfumey nose of spiced blackberries (like blackberry pie) and steely, stony minerals. Soft, balanced, and quite concentrated in the mouth, with loads of fruit and minerals, and very nice acids to boot. Full-bodied, with good length. No great complexity of flavors, but lots of character. B/B+. Was $21.99 from WTSO.com.
(Sorry, 2010 shown.)
Thursday, April 11, 2013
2011 Domaine du Salvard CHEVERNY Rose (Loire Valley, France)
Gorgeous pinky/salmon color. Tons of fruit on the loud nose, watermelon, grapes, lemon juice, strawberry, cherry. A bit of minerality, but, mostly, this is about the fruit. Great acids keep this very lively. A great wine to have on hand for those May/June picnics. B+.
Imported by Kermit Lynch, I got this wine for $13.99 from B-21 Wines in Florida. Great buy!
Tuesday, April 09, 2013
2007 Domaine Haut du Terres Blanches CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE (Rhone Valley, Southern France)
BTW, the food at L'Olivier was excellent. Classic bistro fare, beautifully executed.
2009 Domaine de la Janasse COTES DU RHONE (Southern France)
Well, my sinus infection has finally subsided to the point where my sense of smell has returned. So I popped the cork on a Cotes du Rhone that turned out to be funky and have a lot of character.Nearly fully saturated color -- black violet-tinged ruby. Funky nose, but in a Rhone-y way. Loads of faintly barnyardy earth, iodine, smoky gravel, and spicy black raspberry and black cherry. Big and flavorful, but with excellent acids, this wine has full-throttle flavors but not a whole lot of elegance. Ripe fruit, but very dry and minerally, with those liquid minerals clinging for dear life to the insides of your mouth. Long finish. B+.
Was a remarkable $12.99 from B-21 Wines in Florida. That's a great buy for this much character. Imported by Eric Solomon Selections.
Wednesday, March 27, 2013
2008 Porerra "Black Slate" "Vi de la Vila" (Montsant, Spain)
I have a bad cold, yet even through my severely compromised taste buds and sense of smell, I can tell this is dynamite. Unbelievably concentrated and long. Without being ponderous! Stay tuned. I'll do a more detailed post when I drink my second bottle. Or better yet, go get some right now. Was $18 from Winex.com. Imported by Eric Solomon.
Friday, March 22, 2013
2010 Chateau Duplessis (Moulis-en-Medoc, Bordeaux)
A decent, modestly-priced Bordeaux. 68% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, and some Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. Very shy and reserved now, it may well be significantly better in a few years.Gorgeous color: deeply-saturated and luminescent ruby-violet. Very shy nose that reluctantly gives up a little whiff of brambly twigs, lightly charred oak, and cassis. But you really have to work the sniffing to get it. Tightly-wound flavors of lightly-scorched earth, minerals and a bit of cassis. Dry, tight, and with a fair amount of tannin. Medium full body, and pretty good acids. Pretty good length. This is a wine that needs at least 2-4 years of age to open up. Right now, it's a B-, but with potential to come in higher after it opens up. Got it on sale for $14.99 at Total Wine in Fairfax, VA. Imported by Saranty Imports, White Plains, NY.
Labels:
Bordeaux Reds,
Cab/Merlot blend),
Under $15
Monday, March 18, 2013
2011 Vinademoya BIERZO (Northern Spain)
Fully saturated, impenetrable violet-ruby. Intense nose of low-toned, ripe, black cherry, crushed dark stones, and smoke. Very dry, with lots of very fine-grained tannin, this wine immediately coats the entire mouth and the finish just hangs around and hangs around. The concentration of dark cherry fruit is remarkable, yet it's in no way over-extracted or too jammy. It's almost freakish that a wine this intense could have a sense of elegance, but this does. The acids are pretty low, but, again, the wine seems in perfect harmony despite this. This could probably improve over the next 2-3 years, but, really, why wait? A. Was $9.99 from WTSO.com. Imported by Classic Wines, Stamford, CT.
Tuesday, March 12, 2013
2011 Nostrada GARNACHA (Campo de Borja, Spain)
Tasty, balanced, and cheap. A great weeknight dinner wine.
Bright, luminescent ruby color. Laid-back nose of ripe, raspberries and raspberry syrup, along with powdered stone dust. Fairly full-bodied, bone dry, with intensely minerally dry raspberry fruit along with a smoky, bitter-root thing in the finish. The bitterness at the end probably nixes this as a cocktail/party wine, but it went really well with Thai take-out. B. Was $8.99 from Total Wine in Fairfax, VA. Imported by Saranty Imports, White Plains, NY.
Bright, luminescent ruby color. Laid-back nose of ripe, raspberries and raspberry syrup, along with powdered stone dust. Fairly full-bodied, bone dry, with intensely minerally dry raspberry fruit along with a smoky, bitter-root thing in the finish. The bitterness at the end probably nixes this as a cocktail/party wine, but it went really well with Thai take-out. B. Was $8.99 from Total Wine in Fairfax, VA. Imported by Saranty Imports, White Plains, NY.
Thursday, March 07, 2013
2007 Ottimino ZINFANDEL "Biglieri Vineyard" (Dry Creek Valley, Cal.)
Of the three Ottimino Vineyard Zins I've had (the other two from vineyards in the Russian River Valley), this is the best. Ripe, but with claret-like structure. Really fine.Very dark black ruby, with just a hint of lightening at the rim. Complex nose of pure black raspberry syrup, sandstone, and baking spices. Ripe, yet bone dry in the mouth, with nice structure and still quite a bit of soft tannin remaining. Lengthy, pure finish that goes on an unusually long time. Good acids yet quite full. This is one of the best Zins I've had in a long time. A. I got this over a year ago from WineAccess.com . . . but I don't remember how much I paid (sorry!).
Tuesday, March 05, 2013
2011 Adissat CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE "Isabelle" (Southern Rhone, France)
A simple, gutsy, large-scaled red. Maybe a couple of years will bring a bit more complexity, but right now it's like a big, gangly teenager.Very dark ruby/violet. Intense, straightforward nose of black raspberry fruit, and smoky minerality. Huge and ripe in the mouth. More like a Spanish Garnacha or big Cali field blend than a CDP or anything else from the Rhone. Loads of soft tannin , and massive body. Lowish acids. I'd let this sit a year or two to lose its galumphy directness, but not much longer, as the alcohol is likely to start burning through the fruit. B. Was $26.99 from WTSO.com, which, given that this is comparable to a good $12 - $15 old vine Spanish Garnacha, makes this a poor value. Imported by Serge Dore Selections.
Sunday, March 03, 2013
2007 Guigal GIGONDAS (Southern Rhone, France)
Since I started blogging many years ago, I've come to appreciate Guigal's labels: very simple; no need to type out vineyard names, special cuvee names, or "vieilles vignes."This wine is very good, if not rising to the level of his exceptional 2005 Gigondas, which still stands as the best Gigondas I've ever drunk.
Not-quite-fully-saturated black ruby color. Sultry nose of ripe plums, blackberries, iodiney/molten stony minerals and a hint of warmed sandstone and fruitcake. Mouthfilling, with mellow but intense, low-toned flavors of blackberry syrup and liquid minerality, along with a dark gravelly earthiness. Full-bodied, with lots of fairly soft tannin leaving the mouth a little puckery in the finish. This is drinking well now but will improve over the next 2-3 years (maybe a little more). Very classically structured. B+/A-. Was $17.99 from Wine Exchange in L.A., making it a good value.
Saturday, March 02, 2013
2007 Oberto Marco BAROLO "Ciabot Berton" (Piemonte, Italy)
This is a fragrant, richly fruity, varietally-true Nebbiolo. It's drinking wonderfully now, but should improve over the next two years, and then hold nicely for a few more.Medium ruby color with a distinct brickish tinge. Classic Nebbiolo nose of slightly sourish cherry and dried cherry, couples with some gravelly earthiness and a nice cedary streak. The fireworks really kick in in the mouth, where it's got that quiet but surprising power that Barolos can have. Tons of liquid minerals but they seem in harmony with the chokecherry fruit. Very full, but with no heat, and pretty decent acidity to keep things lively. Long, lip-smacking finish. Maybe not the most complex Barolo I've ever had, but a real treat. A-. Was $27.99 from WTSO.com a few months ago. Imported by Superior Wines, Cranford, NJ.
Friday, March 01, 2013
2010 Cantina del Taburno FIANO "Beneventano" (Southern Italy)
This was a large-scale, flavorful if slightly inelegant white that reminded me of a highly-extracted, unoaked Maconnais wine like a St. Veran.Sparkling dark gold color with a slight greenish tinge. Intense nose of ripe apples and a hint of peach, along with bags of crushed stone. Loads of flavor, mostly of slightly bitter apple skin and waves of clingy minerality. Very full-bodied with acidity correspondingly a tad on the low side. Very pleasant, slightly viscous texture. Bone dry. Long, bitterish finish. B+. It's not going to get any better, and should be drunk over the next 6 months. Was $14.99 from Total Wine in Fairfax. Imported by Marco deGrazia Selections.
Thursday, February 21, 2013
2011 Domaine du Carrou SANCERRE ROSÉ (Loire Valley, France)
A terrific rosé. It's got fragrance, flavor, texture, and great vibrancy. No rosé I've ever had comes close to a good Sancerre rosé.Light salmon/copper color. Great cherry/grapey/strawberry fruit aromas shot through with limestoney minerals. Soft, instantly flavorful and mouthwatering upon entry. Loads of crisp fruit flavors are balanced by saliva-inducing acids and great, clean, high-toned stony minerals. Hard to stop drinking this one. A. Was $21 from WineAccess.com Imported by Fleet Street Wine Merchants.
Thursday, February 14, 2013
2006 Bodegas Olarra RIOJA "Añares Reserva" (Spain)
A very nicely-balanced, nicely-composed, and fairly complex Rioja. Elegant, flavorful, and ready to drink. But it should also keep and improve for at least 3-5 years. It's not really traditional style, but neither is it in the stereotypical modern style. Most important, a great value.Vivid, deep ruby color. Somewhat shy but very nice nose of ripe blackberries and cassis, along with warm, sweet sandstone scents, and an unusually deft and subtle note of sweet vanillin from the oak-ageing. In the mouth, it's flavorful and ripe, with full body and lots of soft, fine-grained tannin. Medium-pitched berry and cassis flavors with a clean streak of minerality running through it. There's a little sweet toastiness from the oak, but it's joining the chorus of flavors rather than trying to take the lead. Very nice acidity keeps it lively and keeps inviting another sip. A-. Was a remarkable $12.99 from WTSO.com. Imported by Classic Wines, Stamford, CT.
Monday, February 11, 2013
2011 "Honoro Vera" GARNACHA (Calatayud, Spain)
A nice, very soft, fruity, weighty, varietally-true Grenache. The only complaint I have -- and it's a minor one for a $9.99 bottle -- is a just barely perceptible bit of residual sweetness.Inky ruby-violet color. Open and inviting nose of oozing raspberries, plum jam, and some clean, stony minerality. Mouthfilling, richly fruity, and full-bodied, this offers loads of ripe plummy, raspberry fruity, leaving behind a vaguely bitter-tinged liquid rock taste at the very end. Low acidity. As I said, it's got a barely perceptible bit of residual sugar, and it's pretty simple, so this gets a little tiring to sip on its own, but it's a nice accompaniment with casual weeknight fare (it went well with a simple roast chicken). B. Was $9.99 at Total Wine in Fairfax. Imported by The Country Vintner, Ashland, VA.
Saturday, February 09, 2013
2011 Tarima Monastrell (Alicante, Spain)
Dirt cheap and very good. A great weeknight dinner choice. Simple but varietally true and satisfying.Fully saturated black ruby/violet. Straightforward scents of ripe, sweet, perfumey blackberry and a nice classic Mourvedre (Monastrell) scent of tree bark. Lots of oomph entering the mouth, with loads of smoky blackberries, full body, some nicely integrated if not super-soft tannin, and surprisingly good acidity. A bit of heat, but not intrusively so, on the finish (which is long and fruity). B/B+. Was only $7.99 from B-21 Wines in Florida, but it's pretty widely available (including being available at Total Wine in Fairfax at the same price). Imported by Jorge Ordonez Selections.
Saturday, February 02, 2013
2010 Domaine des Fées CÔTES DU RHÔNE (Southern France)
A really good, large-scaled, ambitious Côtes du Rhône that thinks it's something more important. Dark and extracted, but nicely-balanced at the same time. Apparently it's an unfiltered 50/50 Grenache/Syrah blend.Completely saturated black ruby-violet. Interesting and atypical nose, with lots of smoky, iodiney minerals, and a thing that alternately reminded me of either roasted herbs or a big pan-full of sauteed spinach with garlic and olive oil. And some blackberry skin fruit in there too. Mouthcoating flavors of iodine, blackberry, and faintly bitterish minerals, with a long finish that clings and clings. Some fine-grained tannins for physical structure. Very good acids for a wine this large-framed. Basically, tastes like a very good Gigondas. B+. Got this for $12.99 from B-21 Wines in Florida. Excellent value at that price point. Imported by Eric Solomon/European Cellars.
Thursday, January 31, 2013
2010 Espelt GARNACHA "Old Vines" (Emporda, Spain)
A young wine that needs a lot of air to show its stuff. Definitely on the darker, more-extracted end of the spectrum. Impenetrable, fully saturated black black black ruby. The first night the nose was very scorchy and burnt, showing zero fruit. I was unimpressed and put the Vacu-Vin on it. The next night was a different story. Still smoky and low-toned, but oozy-ripe raspberry syrup fruit was insinuating itself into the equation. Very full-bodied and a bit hot in the mouth, with a somewhat coarser texture than expected for a Grenache. Clearly the winemaker was going for intense extraction here. I prefer Grenaches with a more fluid, less macho feel. Still, it had a lot of low-toned berry and scorched stone flavors. Low acids. It's a B-, but only if you can appreciate this intensely ripe, ambitiously-extracted, massive style. If you don't, it's just a heavy mouthful of bricks. Imported by Eric Solomon-European Cellars. $8.99 from B-21 Wines in Florida.
Monday, January 28, 2013
2010 Domaine du Mont VIRÉ-CLESSÉ (Southern Burgundy, France)
Light gold color. Enchanting nose of ripe apple, ripe pear, nose-tingling lemony acids, and crushed seashell minerality, along with a hint of that Burgundian earthiness that frequently, in the whites, reminds me of dried hay lying around a barn. Absolutely refreshing in the mouth. Concentrated flavors, yet light on its feet, with a linear, lemony streak through the apple/green apply fruit, and a bolt of chalky, seashelly minerality follows through from the nose to the mouth. Soft texture. Brilliantly clean, lengthy finish. I know it's just a Macon, but I have to give it an A. Was $14.99 from WTSO.com, making it a steal. Imported by MHW, Ltd., Manhasset, CT.
Labels:
90 or better,
Chardonnay,
Under $15,
White Burgundy
Saturday, January 26, 2013
2008 Bader-Mimeur CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET Rouge "Chateau de Chassagne-Montrachet" (Burgundy, France)
Tight, tight, tight! This wine is very youthful and tightly-wound, but contains all the elements to become a very good Pinot in 2-4 years.Bright medium ruby with the beginnings of some garnet. Very shy nose (even when poured through a Vinturi). Just a few subtle scents come through: crisp, just-picked cherry and stony minerals, with a lifted floral element. Bone dry, crisp (mouthwatering acids) and lightly tannic in the mouth. Fairly full body. Lots of cherry-skin fruit and lean, stony minerals in the mouth. Clean, medium-long finish. This just needs time to shine (at least a couple of years). For now, B. In a few years, probably higher. Was $24.99 from WTSO.com. Imported by MHW, Ltd., Manhasset, NY.
Sunday, January 20, 2013
2008 Vallana SPANNA COLLINE NOVARESI (Piemonte, Italy)
This is excellent. Shows classic Nebbiolo character, in a medium-bodied, soft, and ready-to-drink style. I'm glad to see this old-line producer (whose Spannas from the 60s and 70s are legendary) is back on line.
Medium ruby-garnet. Fragrant nose, with textbook winey cherry/dried cherry fruit together with a nice mildly mushroomy, earthy underbrush component. Focused, vibrant, earthy-cherry fruit in a bone dry, medium-bodied format, with excellent, zingy acids and just a barely discernible bit of tannin becoming noticeable in the finish. B+. I don't know how much this cost, since my brother gave it to me, but it seems to be selling in the $14 - $18 range from various retailers I've seen on the Internet, which would make it a very good value. Imported by Michael Skurnick Wines, Syosset, NY.
PS, there's a good article in Tom Maresca's blog about the younger generation of this family working hard to bring the estate back to its former glory.
Friday, January 18, 2013
2009 Domaine Chante Cigale COTES DU RHONE "Vieilles Vignes" (Rhone Valley, France)
A deep, soft, sultry Cotes du Rhone from a producer much better-known for its excellent and reasonably priced Chateauneuf. It's 70% Grenache, 20% Carignane, and 10% Syrah. For those who like their Cotes du Rhone to show lots of vibrant, earthy raspberry and/or blackberry fruit, this is not your wine. It's on the lower-toned, chocolately end of the scale. But expectations aside, it's quite good.Saturated black-black ruby color. Somewhat aloof, low-toned nose of dark chocolate, blackberry skins, loamy sandstone, and slow-roasted herbs and meat. Weighty and soft in the mouth, it's very full-bodied, low in acidity, and shows loads of chocolatey, minerally flavors. Lengthy finish. Not my cup of tea, so for me it's a B-, but those who like this style will undoubtedly rate it higher. Was $19.99 at Total Wine in Fairfax. Imported by Saranty Imports, White Plains, NY.
Saturday, January 12, 2013
2009 Savignola Paolina CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)
This is a very easy-drinking, soft, but flavorful Chianti. A pretty good value. Great for weeknight or casual Italian dinners. Atypical, but very good.Fairly dark (for a Chianti) blackish ruby. A lower-toned nose than is usual for a Chianti, featuring dark-roasted minerally notes battling for equal attention with dark cherry fruit, and a light note of menthol in there too. Low-toned in the mouth too, with lots of dark, earthy, gravelly minerals, a dark chocolatey note (where's that coming from in a Chianti?). Medium full body, and lowish acidity. A fluid and very velvety mouthfeel is this wine's best feature. It's a B+ if you're not detracting points for atypicality. Was $14.99 from WTSO.com. Imported by Superior Wines, Cranford, NJ.
(Sorry, 2008 depicted).
(One more thing: drink this before the summer of 2013.)
Update (1/20/13): A second bottle seems a little more advanced, and I'd give it a B.
Labels:
Chianti,
Italian Reds,
Sangiovese,
Under $15
Monday, January 07, 2013
2011 Montesole LACRYMA CHRISTI DEL VESUVIO ROSSO (Campania, Italy)
A bright, minerally, high-toned red. I got it for $36 at a restaurant in Charlottesville, so I think that would make it something that would retail for between $15 and $20. Both stylistically and price-wise, consider this wine as an alternative to a Valpolicella.
Dark black ruby with violet highlights. Vibrant nose of crunchy, ripe cherry and very clean, stony minerals. Feels very lively in the mouth, with intense cherry fruit, lots of minerality, and crisp acids. Medium-full body, and a soft texture with just enough microtannin to be discernible if you concentrate. Fun to drink, and extremely food-friendly. Will drink nicely for at least 2 more years. B+. Imported by Artisans & Vines, Richmond, VA.
(Sorry, Fiano di Avellino label shown, but the labels are somewhat similar.)
(Sorry, Fiano di Avellino label shown, but the labels are somewhat similar.)
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