Monday, February 20, 2006

2003 Louis Latour Pouilly-Vinzelles "En Paradis" (White Burgundy)

84. This wine nicely displays some of the virtues and problems with the extraordinarily hot 2003 vintage in Burgundy.

Light, but not particularly bright (almost dull) brassy gold color. Nose of toast, straw, pineapples, butter and stones. Good start, right? Rich mouthfeel, too, but there was a pervasive bitterness throughout the palate, detracting from an otherwise nice set of flavors, consisting mostly of dried pear extract and minerals. Bitterness took over the finish too. If the bitterness weren't there, this wine would have been a lot more enjoyable, although it was pretty good even so.

I read (in Parker I think) that many growers faced a situation in '03 where the grapes had to be harvested because, with the intense heat, they were losing acidity at an alarming rate, yet weren't yet fully physiologically ripe, which manifested itself in the pips and seeds in the center of the grapes remaining greenly unripe and bitter. This wine would seem to be consistent with that hypothesis. Was $13.76 at Spec's on Holcombe.

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