2008 Chateau Font-Mars PICPOUL DE PINET (Languedoc, Southern France)

A really nice, balanced and refreshing unoaked white from an arid, hot region more known for its gutsy reds.

Light, bright, brassy-gold.

Ripe, deep, tropical fruit-laden nose, with pineapple, banana, and notes of peach and lychee nuts. Dry and refreshing, with lots of pear fruit in the mouth, and a light, clean, stony minerality. Squeeze of lime at the end. Surprisingly well balanced, flavorful, and a great accompaniment to New Orleans "Barbequed Shrimp" (recipe). 88.

Was $11 and change at Spec's on Smith, making it an excellent buy. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler.

2007 Bernard Baudry CHINON "Les Granges" (Loire Valley, France)

A unique (totally organic) Cabernet Franc from this idiosyncratic appellation. I liked it, but it's not a wine for the masses.

Black garnet with ruby highlights.

Day 1 the nose had loads of farm-fresh, sweet manure scents amidst smoky machine oil and tangy forest berries. Day 2 was much more normal, with lots of crisp cherry fruit and minerals. So give this guy plenty of air if the manure thing isn't for you.

Bone dry in the mouth, but with lots of lean flavors of dry cassis extract and mineral oil. Long, lean finish, with medium body and very good acidity. 86.

Was $17 and change at Spec's on Smith several months ago, so I don't know if they still have it. A Louis/Dressner Selection.

2006 Hacienda Molleda Carinena (100% GARNACHA) (Spain)

A very nice, pure-tasting Spanish Grenache. (Astute readers have deduced by now that I am partial to Grenache-based wines, as I feel they tend to go well with a lot of the dishes my wife Liz and I cook.)

High-toned, yeasty raspberries on the nose, with notes of powdered stone and a squeeze of lemon.

Lots of clean, ripe fruit in the mouth -- raspberry and crisp cherry -- with a liquid mineral streak. Fair amount of tannin. Not a lot of depth in the mid-palate, but nicely-balanced and clean. 87.

I have a vague recollection I got this at Central Market a few weeks ago, and that it was around $15. But don't quote me on that. Imported by Partick Mata at Olé Imports (a really good, young importer of generally zesty-styled Spanish reds).

2008 Clos de la Roilette FLEURIE (Beaujolais, France)

A really nice, classic-style Beaujolais from the higher-falutin' appellation of Fleurie.

Light ruby color.

Classic nose of crushed stone-infused bright cherry candy and grapes. Good weight, full body, with aggressive yet soft flavors -- lots of stony minerals, crushed sea shells, and an intense streak of dry cherry extract. Good acidity provides nice lift. Textbook cru Beaujolais. 88.

Got it online at Zachys.com for $22. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections (one of the best).

2008 Monte Oton GARNACHA (Campo de Borja, Spain)

Another cheap and good Grenache from Spain.

Dark ruby color with violet highlights.

Gangly nose of crushed raspberries and rhubarb, laced with cinnamon-scented powdered stone.

Full-bodied, with decently-concentrated, low-toned fruit on initial entry, segueing into a crisp, minerally, slightly tannic finish. Lots of character, if not elegance, for this bargain basement price-point. 87. Was $7.99 at World Marketplace on Richmond neat the West Loop.

2006 Pope Valley Winery ZINFANDEL "Eakle Vineyard" (Napa Valley)

This is an excellent Zin at an excellent price! Big, ripe, and full, but not overblown.

Mature black ruby color. Rich, smoky blackberry jam nose, with some subtle scorched earth notes. Enters the mouth with palate-clinging, low-toned intense flavors of iodine, blackberry extract, and black pepper. Very full-bodied, with a long, low-acid peppery finish. A real mouthful and a great value at $15 and change at Spec's on Smith (I'll list it as "under $15). 89. Drink over the next year.

(Sorry, can't find a photo.)

2008 Schafer-Frohlich RIESLING Trocken "Bockenauer" (Nahe, Germany)

A terrific wine -- fragrant, vibrant, loads of flavor, and zingy as all get-out. I haven't had many Trockens (dry German wines) that I love, but this is one.

Light, silvery-gold streaked with bright, light green. Vivacious nose of limes, granny smith apples, crushed stones, and a hint of fresh tea leaves. Incredibly lively and crisp, with tightly-concentrated green apple/pear fruit. Long, minerally, pure finish. Loads of fruit, but dry and very crisp. Great fun with Asian food or as a hot weather sipper. 90. A Rudi Wiest Selection (He's a great German importer). Was about $25 at Spec's on Smith.

Sorry, 2007 shown.

2006 Kilakanoon GRENACHE "Prodigal" (Clare Valley, Australia)

A big, ripe bruiser of a Aussie Grenache (i.e., just the way I like 'em).

Dark ruby color. Ripe, open nose of sappy raspberry oozings, warm sandstone, and balsa wood. Open, soft, and expansive in the mouth, with broad flavors of ripe berry sap, salty sandstone, and again with the balsa wood (I could have just said it tastes like it smells, I guess). Long, warm finish. A big fleshy mouthful. Not a cerebral wine, but a hedonistic one. Was great with butterflied, grilled leg of lamb. 89. Was about $26 at Spec's on Smith. (Sorry, 2003 shown)

2006 Peachy Canyon ZINFANDEL "Westside" (Paso Robles, Cal.)

I love the bright feel and intense minerality of Paso Robles Zins. This is a textbook example, and with a reasonable price tag.

Medium dark ruby-plum color. Complex nose of equal parts pungent crushed stones and spicy black raspberry fruit, with a hint of brown sugar. Soft, yet with a leaner style than many of the weighty Zins that are being made these days. Long, minerally, peppery finish. Nice balance. A very food-friendly style of Zin. 88. Was $18 at Spec's on Richmond.

2007 Tabali CARMENERE Reserva (Limari Valley, Chile)

Yet another dynamite Chilean Carmenere.

Completely saturated plasma-like ruby crimson. Rich, ripe, sweet-scented nose of blackberry syrup, incense, and sweet, smoky gravel. Soft, yet weighty, with concentrated flavors of ripe blackberry and graphite, with a long, long finish. Loads of very fine-grained tannin to provide some physical structure. Full-bodied, but with the alcohol seemingly in check. Very, very nice. 90. Imported by SWG Imports, Bend, OR. Still trying to find the receipt. . . .

2006 San Felice CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

A textbook, classically-built Chianti.

Nearly saturated dark, crystalline ruby with a little garnet tint. Needs substantial air time (or to be poured through a Vinturi) for the nose to develop. Starts off closed and pungently minerally, but morphs into a classic nose of ripe chokecherries, minerally gravel, old barrel scents, and lemon zest. Soft as velvet and medium-bodied, with a refreshing lift in the mouth. Minerally/gravelly-infused cherry fruit. With just a tad bit more concentration, this would have been perfect! As it is, it's pure, refreshing, and has good length. Very little tannin is noticeable. Will make great drinking with a wide variety of Italian dishes over the next year. 88. Imported by Margaux and Associates. Was $16 and change at Spec's on Smith.

2006 Domaine Mas du Bouquet VACQUEYRAS (Rhone Valley, France)

This was a very good buy, particularly for a Vacqueyras (an excellent appellation sandwiched between Chateauneuf du Pape and Gigondas), which typically cost a bit more that a regular ol' Cotes du Rhone. This one is 60% Grenache 30% Syrah 10% Mourvèdre, according to the importer's website.

Beautiful black ruby/garnet. Gorgeously ripe, fruity nose, with loads of sappy blackberries, sweet cream, and freshly-cracked stones. Fruit attacks the palate gradually, building to a deep-toned, mouth-watering fruity richness, with iodine/earthy notes. Lots of soft tannin in the long, pure-tasting finish. Nice balance. 88. Was $12 at HEB on Buffalo Speedway (but I think I have also seen this at Whole Foods on Bellaire for a little more). Imported by Laurent Terrisson Wines.

PLAN PEGAU "Lot #2007" (Southern France)

This is a grenache-based blend from the Rhone area, made by a respected producer of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. It is a soft, fruity, fun-to-drink red that would go well with lots of foods.

Dark ruby color. Direct, fruity, juicy nose. Tangy raspberry and boysenberry syrup, with a spiced peat component. Medium-bodied but densely-fruited, with a fleshy texture and a light mouthfeel. Kind of like a very ripe Beaujolais made from Rhone varietals. Mineral and berry flavors accented by a forest floor note. 87. Good value at $11.50 at Spec's on Richmond. Imported by Hand-Picked Selections.

2006 Umani Ronchi "Casal di Serra" VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DE JESI Classico Superiore (Marche, Italy)

Probably better a year ago.

Medium light gold. Accessible, soft nose of pear/banana and sweet chalk. Round and soft, with full body and loads of earthy banana and pear-skin fruit, with a peppery, minerally, low acid, slightly flabby finish. Not bad, but I favor Verdicchios that are in a fresher, crisper, more minerally-stony style. 84. Was $16 at Houston Wine Merchant.

(Sorry, 2003 shown)

Great tasting of Silver Oak and Twomey wines

I was invited to a special private tasting last week with Daniel Baron, the winemaker at Silver Oak -- one of the most prestigious names in all of California winedom. For me, it was a real treat, because I have not attended many formal tastings since leaving the wine biz in the mid-1980s, and I actually have never had the pleasure of drinking a Silver Oak wine.

It occurred during my regular work hours, so I unfortunately had to religiously spit, but I enjoyed it immensely anyway. Not only were the wines very special (notes to follow), but Daniel Baron has been making wine in the highest eschelons for decades. As we were tasting, he regaled us not only with a wealth of winemaking information, but also some great anecdotes from his interesting career.

The wines comprised not only the two Silver Oak Cabernets (the Alexander Valley and the Napa Valley), but also from Twomey Vineyards, with is associated with Silver Oak, though it focuses on varietals other than Cabernet (a Sauvignon Blanc, several Pinot Noirs, and a Merlot). All the wines were either currently on the market or about to be released.

2008 Twomey Napa Valley SAUVIGNON BLANC -- from old vines formerly owned by the now defunct Stonegate Winery, this was a very tight, crisp, French-styled Sauvignon Blanc. Restrained nose with light earthy, toasty notes and citrusy fruit. Crisp as all heck in the mouth, with a pervasive minerality and a refreshing style. Long, lean finish. Would be a dynamite accompaniment to sweet shellfish such as shrimp or scallops.

The following Pinot Noirs are denominated by regional appellation only, as they are blended from multiple vineyards within the designated region.

2008 Twomey Santa Barbara PINOT NOIR -- Tart and very tight. Gorgeous light pomegranate ruby color. Bright, nervous nose of sappy yet crisp cherries. High acidity, razor-like focus, but good ripeness. Long cherry-skin finish. (Daniel said this P.N. was from the coolest climate of the four, and will open up with time.)

2008 Twomey Anderson Valley PINOT NOIR -- Slightly darker color. Deeper, sappier nose, with spice and earth notes. Lower-toned flavors, with more earthy, humus (not hummus) notes. Longer finish too. Drinking well already.

2008 Twomey Sonoma Coast PINOT NOIR -- Darker still, with purply-ruby hues. Sweeter, riper nose, with lots of fruit and cinnamon. Broader, expansive mouthfeel, with lots of secondary flavors already showing up in addition to great, sappy Pinot fruit. Tightens up in the long finish. Needs a little time to get itself fully together, but already very tasty.

2008 Twomey Russian River PINOT NOIR -- Wow! Of all these appellations, Russian River is usually my least favorite, but this was fantastic. Great fruit on the nose. Gobs of focused, ripe cherry and a few other berries in the background. Round, silky, and concentrated in the mouth, but with a light feel. Lovely, pure fruity, soft and extra-long finish. Great balance.

2006 Twomey Napa Valley MERLOT -- I'm not usually a huge Merlot guy, but this ROCKED! From a single vineyard in SE Napa near Stag's Leap (Daniel said the soil is very poor, volcanic pumice), made only with French clones of Merlot, and aged in French oak. An elegant, blackish ruby color. Intense, focused blackberry fruit on the nose. Tight in the mouth, with ripe fruit but avoiding any jamminess or perceptible residual sugar. Lots of gravelly, stony notes, and gobs of very fine-grained tannins. Full-bodied, with fantastic length. I thought this was very much like a top growth St. Emilion or Pomerol. I probably would not have picked this out as a California wine if I didn't know what it was.

All the Twomey reds will retail at $50. (I can't remember what he said the Sauvignon Blanc sells for.)

2005 Silver Oak Alexander Valley CABERNET SAUVIGNON -- As all Silver Oak Cabs, this was 100% Cabernet and aged in 100% American Oak (50% was new for this wine). Dark black ruby color. Rich, earthy, cigar box, and humus notes along with ripe, dark fruit. Ripe and rich in the mouth, but with a nice, tight, concentrated core of fruit. Nice structure and balance. A very complete wine.

2004 Silver Oak Napa Valley CABERNET SAUVIGNON -- Very sedate color. Fantastic and unique nose, with sweet, perfumey cassis and cigar leaf, and a deep-toned inky component. Lots of minerally gravel notes in the mouth, with great focus and concentration. Impeccable balance. Still a fair amount of tannin, but a soft texture nonetheless. Very long finish.

Finally, Daniel explained a unique cork quality program that Silver Oak has instituted. I was amazed at how much thought and empirical data went into it, and the result, he said, was that, for their 750 ml bottles, the incidence of corked wine has been reduced from 2% (which seemed already pretty low to me), to an unheard of 0.67%. He also mentioned that for each and every bottle of 3L or larger, the corks are individually inspected! Amazing attention to quality.

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All in all, a great experience!

2008 Elementos GARNACHA (Calatayud, Spain)

Another very good value, food-friendly Grenache from Calatayud. Surprise, surprise.

Dark ruby with a purple tinge near the rim. Lively, youthful nose of raspberries, pungent minerals, and scorched earth. Full-bodied, aggressively fruity flavors (mostly raspberry) attacking the palate with earnest determination. A really good weekday night pasta or stew wine. 87. Was $8.99 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

(Sorry, can't find a photo).

2007 Domaine du Bagnol CASSIS (Provence, France)

A flavorful, balanced, easy-going white from a tiny appellation near Marseille.

Light, bright gold. Ripe, soft nose of earthy peach and pear fruit, flowers, and bath powder. A soft, broad, low-acid mouthfeel, with ripe apple/pear fruit and a clean, lightly-minerally finish. Very easy to drink. Were it cheaper, it would be a great party white with broad appeal, and would also be ridiculously good with spicy Asian food. 88. Was $25 at Spec's on Smith, making it kind of pricy for such a casual style. Imported by Neal Rosenthal Selections.

2004 Optima CABERNET SAUVIGNON (Alexander Valley, Cal.)

Disappointing. An over-ripe, over-extracted, over-oaked behemoth. I usually love well-made Alexander Valley Cabs for their easy going texture, ripe berry fruit, and loamy gravel notes, but this had none of those qualities.

Nearly saturated black, black ruby. Rich nose of intensely oaky, scorched earth, with lots of baker's chocolate. Very little fruit. Tannic, massive, highly extracted flavors, again with little fruit and almost all inky, baker's chocolate flavors and lots of peppery heat from the too-high alcohol in the back of the throat. D. Was $18 from Wines 'til Sold Out. (I have 3 more bottles, so if the others turn out better, I will update with a new post. If not, I have a lot of expensive cooking wine).

2005 Chateau de Peyremorin (Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux)

A decent Bordeaux, but not a repeat purchase.

Dark ruby garnet with a tad bit of amber at the rim. No nose at first, but run through a Vinturi, it showed medium-intensity aromas of dark cherry, scorched earth, and smoky autumn leaves. A leaner, bone-dry style, with tight, dry black cherry fruit and some gravelly minerality. A fair amount of noticeable tannin. Probably not going to get any better. 85. Was about $15 at Spec's Warehouse on Westheimer and Montrose.

2007 Louis M. Martini CABERNET SAUVIGNON (Sonoma County)

This is the entry level Cabernet from this widely-available winery, and it's a solid effort.

Dark, blackish ruby. Ripe, inviting nose of ripe blackberry and sweet cream. Rich, mouthfilling blackberry fruit, with lots of soft, minerally-tinged tannin clinging to the palate. Not a complex or serious Cab, but satisfying, balanced, and fun to drink. 87. I believe I got this at Randall's on Weslayan for about $16, but it's available just about everywhere.