2009 Fattoria ColSanto "Ruris" (Umbria, Italy)

This is a non-DOC blend of 70% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot, and 10% Sagrantino.  It is a very rustic mouthful of wine, and got more enjoyable over the course of three days after initially being opened. But it's cheap, and not a bad gulper to have with rustic tomato/meat/cheese pasta dishes.
Relatively innocuous dark ruby color.  The first day, the nose seemed sharp and overextracted.  By the third day it was pretty good.  Lots of tart cherry fruit and angular cracked stony scents.   Drying, slightly sour cherry fruit fills the mouth, with some dry earthiness, as well, and it's all transported along on a wave of acidity and some aggressive, not-so-soft tannin.  Finished clean, but leaves the mouth somewhat puckered.  I know these notes don't make this wine sound so good, but I actually kind of enjoyed it (with food -- without food, it's way too taxing).  C+/B-.  I think this was around 9 or 10 bucks at Whole Foods in Clarendon.  Imported by Siema Wines, Springfield, VA.

2009 Chateau de Nages COSTIERES DE NIMES "Vieilles Vignes" (Rhone Valley, France)

This 50/50 Grenache/Syrah is terrific.  Soft-textured, open, but densely-flavored.  Drinking really well now, but should hold for another 2 years or so.

Pure, dark blackish ruby.  Low-toned, deep nose of dark blackberry extract shot-through with smoked meats and shovels-full of sandstone.  Deep, minerally, iodine-infused flavors immediately fill every nook and cranny in the mouth, with a deep, dark slightly bitter fruit component I can only say tastes like fermented, crushed blackberry pomace. Loads of tannin that's neither coarse nor soft, and fairly low acidity, but it doesn't seem over-extracted or out of balance.  Just deep and clingy.  B+, maybe a little more.  $14.99 at Total Wine in McLean, VA.  Imported by Saranty Imports, White Plains, NY.

2008 Beckley Family Vineyards ZINFANDEL Reserve (Napa Valley)

A really nice, structured ripe, balanced Zin.  I am not exactly sure why Napa Valley Zins tend to have a more structured, subdued, "Claret" (i.e., Bordeaux) like feel than their Dry Creek, Mendocino, Sonoma Valley, or Paso Robles counterparts, but they do.  This one has both the typical Napa structure and great Zin character.

Very dark pure, black ruby color.  The first night it was a bit closed on the nose, but two days later (sealed with a Vacu-Vin) it really blossomed.  Deep dark vibrant blackberry fruit, together with a graphite/gravelly note on the nose.  In the mouth, it explodes with flavor, coating the mouth with pure, ripe Zinfandel dark berry fruit, with a terrific sweet iron/iodiney note that expanded as the finish wore on.  Excellent structure, with a lot of fine-grained tannin and decent acidity.  This will hold and maybe even improve for another 2-3 years.  A-.  Was $14.99 from WTSO.com, making it an excellent value.

2009 Domaine Laleure-Piot PERNAND-VERGELESSES PREMIER CRU (White Burgundy)

This was an extreme wine.  So minerally and brothy that it's hard to believe grapes had anything to do with it.  Not my cup of tea, but I know several wine geeks who would love this style.

Medium light, pewter-inflected gold color.  Nose very closed the first day, even with pouring through a Vinturi. Day 2 the nose was more extroverted, smelling like an emulsion of freshly-pulverized limestone dust, chicken broth, and tart green apple/lemon peel.  Quickly attacks the palate with very lean, minerally, straw-tinged earthy and brothy flavors.  The mineraliness clings long in the mouth, and there's good acidity (duh), but where's the fruit?  Mineraliness is great as a complexity-adder, but there's got to be fruit there to add to.  Right now, this is a C-.  But I've experienced white burgundies that blossom from green and closed to real beauties in 2 or 3 years.  I don't know if this is one, but it's probably better to wait and hope than drink now.  Was $22 from WTSO.com.

(Sorry:  2005 shown)

2009 Weber PINOT NOIR "Mishelle" (Santa Rita Hills, Cal.)

I got this for a song ($10) as a close-out, and it's really good!  Loads of pure Pinot fruit in a crisp, almost tart style, but with excellent varietal character, very good concentration, and great balance.

Medium dark ruby with a magenta tinge.  Nose of pure cherry with pomegranate, along with a whisper of root beer and sandstone.  Lively, crisp, penetrating fruit on entry, first filling the mouth and then turning into mineral-laced cherry extract as the finish wore on.  Just a bit of tannin providing physical structure. I would put this up against all but the top Beaune Premier Crus any day.  I'm not sure if they have any left, but you should check out the Winex (a very good Orange County, Cal., retailer) website and find out.  B+.  This could age nicely for a couple of years.

My 1000th post!!! 2009 Busi CHIANTI RUFINA (Tuscany, Italy)

I love Chianti Rufina.  It's a region northeast of both the Chianti Classico region and indeed west of Firenze.  It tends to be a little leaner, lighter in body, and crisper than Chiantis from the Classico region, and this one is true to its type.  They can be extraordinarily food-friendly wines.

Bright color of spectrally-pure ruby.  Fairly animated nose of crisp cherries and cherry liqueur, along with the prototypical Chianti minerally earthiness I refer to as "schisty gravel."  Crisp, aggressive, high-toned flavors of stony minerals and cherries that linger, gradually (and this is unusual) molting from more minerally into more pure cherry as the finish goes on.  Usually, it's the other way around with most wines.  Nice crisp but unobtrusive acids, and some very fine-grained but puckery tannin comprise the physical characteristics.  A very notable value at $9.99.  Got this at The Italian Store on Lee Highway in Arlington.  Imported by Kysela Pere et Fils.  B+.

2009 Domaine des Roy TOURAINE Blanc "Les Silex" Loire Valley, France)

Although it doesn't say, this is certainly a Sauvignon Blanc.  And a really good one.  Better than most Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume out there, and cheaper too.

The first night it was funkily earthy, but on the second night it really blossomed.  Light gold with silver and  brassy glints.  Piercing and intense nose of green apple and lemon/lime fruit, with distinct notes of chicken broth shot-through with crushed limestone.  Big, mouthwatering, crisp flavors aggressively coat the palate, with loads of lemon-drenched green apple and a brothy minerality.  Long, clean, interesting finish with great persistence and vibrant acids.  Would be fantastic with shellfish.  Drink over the next 2 years and enjoy.  A-.  Imported by Thomas Calder Selections, this was $14.99 at Arrowine in Arlington.

2010 Domaine de Dionysos CAIRANNE Cotes du Rhone Villages "La Cigalette"(Southern France)

Intensely earthy and closed on day 1, it really blossomed on day 2.  Almost like two different wines.  It's a really flavorful but civilized Rhone blend of 50% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 10 % Mourvedre, and 5% Carignane.

Incredibly vibrant -- almost vibrating! -- magenta-tinged deep ruby.  Intensely stony, lively nose.  Crunchy plums and red berries, shot through with rock dust and a barely perceptible rosemary/pine resin note in the back.  Incredibly pure-tasting.  Dry, but with ripe cherry liqueur flavors, minus the alcohol and sweetness, and again with the rock dust.  Loads of fine-grained tannin, good acids, and a very lengthy, stony, pure finish.  A very nice wine.  But if you're drinking it over the next 18 months, be sure to let it breathe or pour it through a Vinturi.  A-.  Imported by Serge Dore Selections.  Was $12.99 from WTSO.com, making it an excellent buy.

Osél RUCHÈ di Castagnole Monferrato (Piemonte, Italy)

Yet another Ruchè!  I hadn't seen one in decades and now in a period of two months I see two different ones in Arlington. Go figure.  This one has lots of flavor, but is in a very modern, fruity style.  It's good, but I like the character of the more traditional style better. 


It's got a very bright ruby color.  Loads of red and black fruits (mostly plums and dark cherry) in the nose, with a very subtle stony note.  Mouthfilling fruit, but in a very soft and open style.  Texturally it's like a new-styled Beaujolais/Cotes du Rhone cross.  It seems like it would take a slight chill nicely and serve as a great hot weather cook-out red.  But drink it before 2012 is up.  B-.  Imported by Siema Wines of Springfield, VA, it was $9 at Whole Foods in Clarendon.

2010 Roger et Didier Raimbault SANCERRE "Les Belles Cotes" (Loire, France)

A good, balanced, fresh and typical Sauvignon Blanc from this region.  Good value.

 Very pale silvery-gold color.  Lively nose of green apple and lemon/lime fruit, with a little grassy herbaceousness, and significant notes of chicken broth and rain-soaked limestone.  Fresh, zingy, brothy and green apply in the mouth, with modest concentration.  Good acids keep it very fresh, and a clean, mouthwatering, if a little short, finish.  It's not super distinguished, but it would be pretty darn hard to find a better white at this price point ($16.99).  Got it from Wines Til Sold Out.  Imported by Serge Dore Selections, NY.  B.

2010 Sobon Estate ZINFANDEL "Old Vines" (Amador County, Cal.)

I don't usually buy Zins from Amador County, because in the 1980s and 1990s I had several that were very cloying and simple -- not as vibrant, complex, and zesty as from places like Dry Creek and Paso Robles.  But I recently gave this one a shot and it is a winner!  Everything in balance, lots of flavors, and good energy.

Dark ruby with violet highlights.  Great nose of lively, tangy, rich blackberries, and loads of sandstone-y, balsa wood notes.  Mouthcoating flavors, but not the least bit heavy, showing very nice balance for a Zin.  Pretty good acicity and a wee bit of soft tannin.  Very pure flavors of ripe, spicy blackberry and black cherry fruit and loads of stony minerals.  This would go really nicely with all sorts of red sauces, meat braises, grilled meat, etc.  Which is really what I love most about Zinfandels -- their food-friendliness.  At least when they're not pushing 16% alc. (This one was a more modest -- for Zin -- 14.9%.)  A-.  Was only $12.99 at Total Wine in McLean, VA.

2009 Domaine Carpy "Les Pins" FITOU (Southwest France)

I haven't had many Fitous, but they've all been good, and good values.  Including this one.  It's an appellation that's arid, hot, stony, and right up against the Mediterranean.  A blend primarily of Grenache, Syrah, Carignane and Mourvedre (the 4 Musketeers?).

Beautiful dark ruby color.  Very nice nose of perfumed rock dust, dark minerals, and ripe black cherry and blackberries.  Very pure-tasting dark cherry-berry fruit and powdered black stones fill the mouth.  Loads of very fine-grained nano-tannins.  Medium full body and darn good acidity for a wine from this region, adding up to very nice balance and mouthfeel.  A wicked good value at $8.99.  Got it at Whole Foods in Clarendon.  Whoever picks out the wines for that store does a nice job picking out an array of nice values.  Imported by Dionysis Imports, Manassas, VA.  B+.

2008 Volpetti CESANESE LAZIO (Lazio, Central Italy)

This wine was both exciting and disappointing.  Exciting because I do not remember ever drinking a wine made from the Cesanese varietal (apparently indigenous to this area) and it had unique, very intense, somewhat spiced fruity scents and a very soft texture, along with some good concentration and good acids.  But disappointing because this particular wine had very noticeable residual sugar; so much that it made the wine a bit cloying in the mouth.  If they had fermented it dry, I think this would have been very special.  In its current, more-than-slightly-sweet form, it's a C.  I'd like to taste a fully dry one.  Was $10 at Whole Foods in Clarendon, and I saw it in The Italian Store on Lee Highway (Arlington) for a little more.  Imported by Siema Wines, Springfield, VA.

2010 DeAngelis ROSSO PICENO (Marche, Italy)

I feel about this wine the way that the right wing must feel about Romney.  The words say one thing but the reality is very watered down.  This is an Italian copy of a Beaujolais.  Not even a real Beaujolais . . . a Georges DeBoeuf industrial candy Beaujolais.

Bright ruby color with a thin sheen of micro bubbles.  Fruity nose of tangy plums and strawberry along with a cherry soda component.  Cherry and peach juice fruit in the mouth, with no tannin, a soft texture with a faint prickle of CO2, and a fruit-juicy clean finish.  More like a soft drink or fruit smoothie than a wine.  Not that it's unpleasant, but WTF?  C-.  Was under $10 at Whole Foods in Clarendon.  Imported by Potomac Selections, Landover, MD.

UPDATE:  You know what?  Now that I've slept on it, I've changed my mind.  F.  This is a travesty.  Is there technically anything wrong with it?  No.  Does it taste and smell pleasant?  Yes.  But it is so wrong for a supposed Marchegiano Montepulciano/Sangiovese blend.

2009 Col des Vents CORBIERES (Southern France)

This dirt cheap wine was very good.  Worth buying in quantity.  Focused, balanced, deep, and satisfying.  It's 50% Carignane, 35% Grenache, and 15% Syrah.

Fairly saturated black ruby.  Nose a little shy, but showing very delineated scents of black raspberry and dark cherry juice poured over freshly-cracked clean dark stones.  Soft, concentrated, and with great balance, this wine coats the mouth with rich dark cherry fruit and some very fine-grained tannin.  Loads of clean stony minerals too.  Good acids for a wine from this region (which can be brutally hot), showing not only the 2009 vintage's blessings but also someone's careful attention to when to pick. Buy this wine by the case and drink with dinners over the next year or two.  B+.  Was $7 freakin' .99 at Whole Foods in Clarendon.  Imported by value seeking importer Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA.

2009 Castillo de Maluenda "Punto y Coma" GARNACHA "Vinas Viejas" (Calatayud, Spain)

This is a macho, burly Garnacha -- a varietal that, if anything, I would typically liken to a fleshy, voluptuous woman.

Vibrant, pure-refracting dark ruby.  The first night it was very closed and showed highly extracted scents of scorched earth virtually overshadowing the raspberry fruit.  Night two it mellowed, and the fruit came more to the fore: lots of tight, crunchy crushed raspberries poured over a powdery mass of freshly-pulverized stones.  Loads of micro-tannin coat the mouth in the back half of the palate.  The finish is all stones.  Good acids too.  This wine actually needs a couple of years, during which the tannins and angularity should mellow and the fruit should move forward even more.  Very unique style of Grenache.  B+.  Was $12.99 at European Foods on Washington Blvd and Pershing in Arlington.  Imported by Monsieur Touton Selections.

2010 "Les Heretiques" Red (Herault, Southern France)

From the owners of the respected Chateau d'Oupia in the Languedoc region, this cheap blend of Carignane and Syrah is a young, zesty, and well-made weekday dinner wine.  If drunk in 2012, however, give it some air time, as the nose and flavors are quite closed at first.

Deep, dark, ruby/violet.  Not especially complex on the nose, but with enticing aromas of equal parts clean, stony minerality and ripe but tangy dark berries.  Lively, tangy berry fruit hits the palate first, then broadens out and shows a soft texture and nice ripeness.  A little tannin in the clean-as-a-whistle finish.  Just a dynamite dinner accompaniment at a bargain price.  B+.  Was $10.99 at Whole Foods between Wilson and Clarendon Blvds in Arlington.  Imported by one of my favorites, Louis/Dressner Selections (which is why I even tried such a cryptically-labeled wine in the first place).

2009 Three Vineyards MATARO "Spinelli Vineyard" (Contra Costa County, Cal.)

A wine that juxtaposes lusciousness with balance.  Really fine.  Is it the 125-yr. old vines (that's not a typo) or great winemaking?  Probably both.  Get some.

Dark black ruby with violet highlights.  Nose of perfectly ripe dark berries, along with notes of dark liquid minerals, fresh parsley and sandalwood.  Mouthfilling and mouthcoating rich fruit, primarily dark, ripe, iodine-laced blackberry extract.  Gobs of very soft tannin give great structure, and the wine has depth yet is not heavy.  Decent acids, and a long finish.  Just a joy to drink.  A.  Was $19.99 from WineAccess.com.

2009 Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois FLEURIE "Cuvee Vieilles Vignes de la Cadole" (Beaujolais, France)

Very pure smelling and tasting but lacking concentration enough even for a Beaujolais.

Bright, crystalline deep ruby color.  Light intensity nose:  cherries and clean, cracked rocks are discernable, but you have to sniff with some focus to get it.  Nice attack of pure hard cherry candy fruit and loads of stony minerals, but they're evanescent, disappearing quickly.  Some tannins remain in the mouth, and the wine has nice freshness, but the flavors bolt for the exit too fast.  Disappointing.  C+.  Imported by Neal Rosenthal, I think I got this at Houston Wine Merchant a few months ago (before I moved to Virginia).  I think it was around $25, so it was decidedly not a good value.

Wine trends I don't like #1

Argentine Malbecs are everywhere, and they seem to be taking up shelf space at the expense of Aussie reds, particularly the Aussie Grenaches, which I love.  To me, Malbecs just aren't that interesting.  Earthy and coarse by nature, the trend in Argentina seems to be to try to bypass those characteristics by harvesting them much riper and oaking the crap out of them.  Count me out.  Haven't had one I really liked in a very long time . . . was it a Tikal?  Anyway, Australia is definitely considered uncool these days.  Not sure why.  I really miss seeing those old vine Grenaches on store shelves.  Big, ripe, yet food friendly, with warm, complex aromatics.  Bring them back please.