2007 Au Bon Climat CHARDONNAY "Bien Nacido Vineyard" (Santa Barbara, Cal.)

From one of the most exalted Chardonnay vineyards in Central California, this wine seemed like a hybrid between California style and Burgundy style.

Luminescent gold color with a greenish glint. Complex nose of chalky, smoky, dry gravel, brown butter, and pear/tropical fruit. Not overripe, overtly sweet, or cloying (which I would refer to as the "Kendall-Jacksonian" style that has become nearly ubiquitous in California), this wine showed lots of liquid-metallic minerals and dry pear extract, with some light butterscotch notes in the back half of the palate. No detectable residual sugar, thank God. Long finish. Nicely done. Was $20 on sale a month or two ago from Zachys.com. B+

(Sorry, 2006 shown).

2009 Schafer-Frohlich RIESLING "Medium Dry" (Nahe, Germany)

This wine shows off the ability of Riesling to reflect the mineral signature of where it's grown.

Bright, glistening light gold color. The first day, it showed off a complex and intensely slatey minerals drenched in lime juice, with peach pit and crisp apples in the background. There was still a prickle of CO2 in the wine, that lent a slightly bitter impression over lots of eartrhy, minerally-tinged apple fruit. The second day the wine was significantly different, and showed a lot more fruit. The wine displayed a soft, crisp fruitiness, and was mouthfilling yet incredibly light-textured, with great concentration and a long long finish. While the first day's CO2 bitterness hid a slight sweetness, the second day the slight sweetness showed through. Excellent now, this wine will age nicely for a few years. A. Was $24 from Zachys.com (Scarsdale, NY). Imported by Rudi Wiest ( a great importer of German wines)

2007 Summers "Four Acre Zin" ZINFANDEL (Napa Valley, Cal.)

Another excellent, reasonably-priced Zin from this Calistoga area producer. (I reviewed another Zin from this producer here.)

Dark ruby-garnet color. Fragrant nose oozes out of the glass with smoky sandstone scents, baking spices, and sappy blackberry juice. Deliciously rich fruit coats the mouth, with a perfumey spiciness and loads of gravelly minerals. Long, long finish with pure fruit and just the barest tad of peppery heat. Really good acidity for such a voluptuous wine, too. A- I think this one was around $17 at Spec's on Weslayan, but I will verify when I track down the receipt.

2004 Chateau la Coustarelle CAHORS "Grand Cuvee Prestige" (Southwest France)

Having been burned many times in the 1980s (plus not being a Malbec fan), I always approach Cahors with trepidation, but the quality there has gotten much better of late, and this was a very good wine.

This was a blend of 90% old vine Malbec ans 10% Tannat (which, like its name sounds, tends to be very tannic).

Nearly saturated very dark ruby. Low-toned, intense nose of lemon-soaked dark cherry extract, fragrant peat smoke, and scorched gravel. Bone dry, concentrated flavors of metallic minerals and dry black cherry, along with a brambly, dried underbrush component. Loads of cottony tannins coat the mouth. In other words, this was a seemingly textbook Cahors, showing rusticity and elegance simultaneously. B+ Was $17.99 at Houston Wine Merchant. Imported by Charles Neal Selections. Drink over the next two years.

(Sorry, 2002 shown).

2009 "Leitz Out" RIESLING (Rheingau, Germany)

This was a fantastic value. Lots of classic Rheingau Riesling characteristics shining through at a bargain price.

(NB -- this is a slightly sweet wine, so if you're one of those categorical, reflexive haters of this style, just skip it.) . . . but you'll be missing out!

Very pale gold with glints of light green and pewter. Very open, fruity nose with loads of crisp apple and lemon-drenched peach fruit. Very clean, minerally stone notes too. Lively, mouthfilling, with ripe but crisp fruit -- lots of peachey notes. Slightly sweet, but with very good balancing acids. Light-bodied. B+ I got this for $11 at Spec's on Weslayan. Imported by Michael Skurnick Wines.

2009 Les Mugues "Balandran" COSTIERES DE NIMES ROSÉ (Rhone Valley, France)

A good, chunky rose. Lots of flavor, but needs to be drunk soon.

Light bubble gum orangey pink. Juicy aromas of ripe grapes and watermelon, with hints of stone dust and sweet cream. Round, dry, and ripe, with nicely concentrated fruit in a well-balanced, medium full-bodied format. Decent acidity. B-. About $15 at most Spec's stores. Imported by Douglas Skopp Selections.

(Sorry, 2007 depicted).

2008 Mas Lavail "Terre d'Ardoise" CARIGNANE "Vieilles Vignes" (VDP Cotes Catalanes, SW France)

A good, solid Carignane. Carignane, however, is a grape that never can achieve greatness. It's almost always going to have straightforward flavors, maybe a bit of coarseness, and usually a short finish. This one had those qualities, but minimized them, and was a good wine.

Dark black ruby color. Old-fashioned, earthy nose with lots of dark cherry and scorced earth mineral scents. Chunky, minerally cherry fruit on entry, but fades quickly in the mid-palate, only to linger, in reduced volume, in the finish. Rustic and inelegant, it's a solid old-style country red. Paired nicely with a baked ziti dish featuring a ground pork and tomato sauce. B-. Was $11.99 at Spec's on Weslayan. Imported by Robert Kacher.

(Sorry, 2007 depicted).

2009 Regis Minet POUILLY_FUME "Vieilles Vignes"

This Loire Valley Sauvignon was a little too much on the herbal side for my taste. It was good, however, and those that like this style may rate it more highly than I did.

Very pale pewter-tinged gold. Chalky, minerally, intensely herbal nose, with some gooseberry fruit. Mouthfilling, direct flavors of pungent, intensely herbal/minerally notes, with some tart green apple fruit. Good acidity together with surprisingly full-body (I usually associate this herbal style with less-ripe, less full-bodied Sauvignons) and a very clingy, herbal finish. Not everyone's favorite style, and kind of galumphy rather than elegant, but it doesn't skimp on flavor. B. Imported by Kermit Lynch, I can't remember where I got this wine, but will update that info if I find the receipt.

2008 Chono SYRAH Reserve (Elqui Valley, Chile)

Holy crap! I've never had as strong a sense of "deja wine" as with this one. It reminded me of a 1979 Cakebread Howell Mountain Beatty Ranch Zinfandel I had a couple of bottles of in the early 1980s in my Upper West Side apartment on w89th Street in NY. It almost literally transported me back to that place and time. But enough New Age drivel.

Dark ruby color was not remarkable. But then I stuck my nose in the glass. And the time warp began. Fragrant nose of cracked black peppercorns, smoky gravel, and ripe, flavorful spicy blackberries. Ripe (but not jammy or overblown) dense, clingy flavors of black peppercorns, cassis, and smoky embers. Long, very clingy, low-toned, minerally finish. Full-bodied, yet not overdone, with good acidity for its size and good balance. Will keep and maybe even improve over the next 2-4 years, but, why wait? This is delicious now. A. I got this (I think) for around $13 at Whole Foods on Bellaire. Imported by one of my favorite importers, North Berkeley Imports.

Wines at my brother's house

2008 Domaine Henri Darnat MEURSAULT "Clos du Domaine" -- Very tight but nicely concentrated. Nose was earthy, smoky, apply. Leaner style, but showed very good presence in back half of the palate, as well as good length and acidity. Very elegant. Will keep and improve for a few years. Got this from WinesTilSoldOut.com awhile back.

2008 Vallana SPANNA COLLINE NOVARESE -- My first wine of the new era of Vallana's presence in the U.S. after a long absence. This wasn't bad, but not up to the Spannas this producer cranked out in the 1960s and 70s. Earthy Nebbiolo fruit on the nose, but with a slight shoe polish, funky prune note detracting a bit. Medium concentration, but with some nice earthy cherry fruit. Decent finish.

2009 CHAD Carneros PINOT NOIR -- From WineAccess.com, this was an excellent value. Classic Cal. Pinot Noir with rich but focused sappy, earthy cherry fruit. Good concentration, with good acids too. Loads of cherry fruit with earthy minerals and some toasty oak. Yummy. Not sure who makes this, but it's good!

2009 BORSAO (75% Garnacha, 25% Tempranillo) (Campo de Borja, Spain)

This is a perennial great value and is widely available to boot. The 2009 is very good, as usual.

Dark violet-tinged ruby. Rich, open nose of ripe raspberry syrup and dark, roasted green herbs. Dark, ripe flavors of black raspberry and scorched gravel. The barest hint of bitterness in the back half of the palate and a bit less acidity than I like are the only detracting factors, but there's a lot to like at the price. B. $6 and change at Spec's (probably all of them). Imported by Jorge Ordonez Selections.

Two mediocre wines and one OK one

A disappointing week of wine. I blog about stuff I wouldn't buy again so anyone stumbling on this blog won't waste their money. These all seemed like they would be interesting to try but weren't worth buying.

2007 Les Claux Delorme VALENCAY Rouge (Loire Valley, France) -- this 40% Gamay, 30% Malbec (Cot), 20% Cab Franc, 10% Pinot Noir stank like manure the first night. As seems to frequently be the case (with wines that have this stink), two nights later the barnyard was nowhere to be smelled, and it was replaced by fresh, light flavors of crisp berries and minerals. It's quaffable, and went well with take-out Chinese. B- (after significant airing blows off the stank). Was about $20 from Zachys.

2008 Altano DOURO (Portugal) -- This organic Portuguese blend lacked concentration and tasted a bit overcropped and overextracted. Saturated color, Nose of high-toned blackberries, powdered rocks, burnt balsa wood and scorched earth. Lean, slightly undernourished fruit but nice minerally flavors, with a tannic, astringent finish. C.

2009 La Clotiere COTEAUX D'ANCENIS GAMAY (Loire Valley, France) -- Lean and underripe, this watery wine was more of a palate cleanser (good crisp acids) than an accompaniment to dinner. D+ Was about $9 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

2007 Chateau Saint Roch "Chimeres" Cotes du Roussillon Villages (Southwest France)

This was a superb wine. Great depth, complexity, and balance. I was not expecting such quality from the Roussillon area, which is known for its earthy, chunky wines. It's a blend of 40% Grenache, 30% Carignane, 20% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre -- mostly very old vines.

Black ruby with violet highlights. Unique and very fragrant nose, featuring perfume (yes, like women's perfume), grilled steak, rock dust, and trippy black raspberry. Round, deeply-concentrated, and mouthfilling. Smoky, stony notes lead to dark, low-toned, sappy, ripe berry fruit and charcoal. Lots of micro-chalky tannin in the long finish. Excellent and extraordinarily distinctive wine. A. Imported by Eric Solomon, I got the wine for $16 from B-21 Wines in Florida, making it a great value.

2009 Domaine de Colette BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES (France)

This small estate makes consistently excellent Beaujolais. (See prior reviews here and here.) This is one of the best I've had. Textbook old-school Beaujolais.

Very dark ruby with magenta highlights. Ridiculous ripe, tangy nose of crunchy, grapey cherries and berries, laced with cracked rocks and minerals. Flavorful and athletic in the mouth, with loads of ripe, zesty red fruit and minerals, along with a little tannin. Fairly full-bodied, yet with great acids keeping it fresh. A vibrant mouthful. A-. Was around $18 at Central Market. Imported by Charles Neal Selections.

2007 Pezzi King ZINFANDEL (Dry Creek Valley, Cal.)

A textbook Dry Creek Zin. Loads of ripe fruit, good minerality and balance. Excellent value too. Whenever I get that Zin itch, a Dry Creeker like this one scratches it.

Very luminescent dark ruby. Richly fruited nose of spiced black cherry and black raspberry fruit, along with some classic Dry Creek earthy, stony notes. Full-bodied, concentrated ripe flavors of spicy blackberry and cherry. Good acids too for a wine this ripe. Very nice. A-. Drink over the next year. Was $16.99 at Spec's on Richmond.

2006 Domaine Grand Veneur CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE (Southern Rhone, France)

This was classic Chateauneuf! Very traditionally styled both in flavors and structure.

Dark black ruby. Intensely earthy, roasted dark herbs and iodine-infused nose, with notes of rich blackberry and cocoa powder underneath. Richly-flavored, with mouthcoating, dense, earthy, dry gravel and herb flavors masking some highly-concentrated blackberry extract fruit. Long, very clingy finish with some nice soft tannin. Great now, this will improve over the next 2-3 years. Amazingly, this is the "least" of the three Chateauneufs this producer makes. A. Imported by Kysela Pere et fils. I think this was around $35 from Zachy's in Scarsdale, NY, several months ago.

(Sorry, 2007 depicted.)

2009 Domaine La Suffrene BANDOL Blanc (Provence, France)

A very distinctive white that, while not possessing great depth or complexity, is a real kick to drink because of its unique flavors. Try brown-bagging this on your friends. No one will come even close to guessing what it is. As for the components, it's a blend of Clairette and Ugni Blanc grapes.

Very pale, bright gold. Loads of grassy, fresh herbs and bitter pear skins on the nose. Up-front fruit smacks the palate with very direct, low-toned bitter pear fruit and a huge herbal streak. Clingy, herbal finish, with medium body and decent acidity. Drink over the next few months. B. Was $25 at Spec's on Weslayan/Bissonnet.

2006 Anglim "CERISE" 39% Mourvedre, 32% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 4% Viognier "French Camp Vineyard" (Paso Robles, Cal.)

This Rhone blend was almost Pinot Noir-like not only in its gentle, feminine nature, but also in its flavor profile.

Medium dark ruby. Earthy, complex almost Pinot-like nose of sappy cherries, warm, smoky gravel, and lemony spice. A streak of intensely minerally, dark winey cherry fruit up front, along with some peppery heat, but in the finish an interesting note of ripe peach/peach pit. Lots of minerals in the finish. Decent acidity. Ready to drink right now. B. Was $14.99 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

2009 ZESTOS (Madrid, Spain)

This 50% Garnacha, 50% Tempranillo was grown just outside of Madrid, and is a fantastic value. It's got gorgeously fresh fruit, good concentration, and great balance.

Youthful dark black ruby. Vivid dark cherry/berry aromas leap from the glass, mixed with stones and baby powder. Lively, rich fruit attacks the palate, with excellent ripeness and acid balance juxtaposing body and freshness. Some refined tannin adds textural interest. Very direct and satisfying. I would be very hard-pressed to think of a better value in a weekday dinner (or casual party) wine. B+. Was $7.99 at World Marketplace at Richmond and West Loop. Imported by Patrick Mata's Olé Imports.

2008 Domaine Sarrabelle GAILLAC "Croix Blanche" (Southwest France)

This is the best value I've had in many months! And from an area of France I know little about, and from two varietals (80% Duras, 20% Braucol) that I know nothing about. (Braucol is also known elsewhere as Fer Servadou.)
I love making discoveries like this!

Dark black ruby with bright magenta highlights. Poured through a Vinturi, it displayed a gorgeous nose of high-toned, spiced berries with dense plumes of wispy rock microdust. Lively and fairly concentrated, with crisp yet ripe berry fruit in the mouth, along with the cleanest, most refreshing and pure-tasting stony finish. This was fantastic with roast chicken, and would also pair nicely with grilled red or white meats. Bone dry, and with still some unresolved tannin, this wine is wonderful now and should last nicely another year or two. A. Imported by Jon-David Headrick Selections, this wine was only $9.99 at Whole Foods on Bellaire. Get some!

2009 Villa Ponciago FLEURIE "La Reserve" (Beaujolais, France)

A good, solid cru Beaujolais. Pretty decent value for its pedigree.

Dark, vivid ruby with magenta highlights. Initially, a low-toned, very "animal" nose. The next day (after being under a Vacu-Vin closure), loads of very juicy fruit led off, with grapey berries, mixed with earthy, stony dust, and a spiced lemon component. Round, direct flavors ripe cherry fruit and liquid minerals. The finish is all minerals. Make sure to let this puppy breathe to get the fruit to come through. B+. Imported by Henriot Imports. Was $16.99 at Spec's on Richmond.

Going from numeric scores to A+, A, A-, B+, B, etc.

You know, I'm just not sure I really can consistently cut it quite that fine. About the only real difference for me between what I consider to be an 87 point wine and an 88 point wine is that I usually am willing to buy an 88 point wine again if it's a good value. Beyond that, who knows what the difference is? But that's just me. It's way more important to read the tasting notes and see if that sounds like something that would taste good to you.

On a related note, I've been asked why I don't have many wines in the C range or below. Many times, if the wine really sucks, I won't blog on it. But if the wine really should have been good but wasn't, I'll try to let my 7 readers know so they won't make the same mistake I did. Also, from experience, I'm pretty good at making educated guesses at what's going to be good or not. (Turning the label around and checking for a top-flight importer is a big headstart.)

Anyway, so long numeric scores. Hello, slightly-fudgier letter grades. (Anything A- or higher I will continue to label as "90 or better.")

2009 M5 Monastrell (Yecla, Spain)

A very good value, ripe, soft, concentrated red -- in the smoother, lower-acid style.

Vivid dark black ruby. Ripe, low-toned, friendly aromas of woodsy blackberry juice and crushed rocks. Soft, concentrated, and juicy in the mouth. loads of very pure blackberry fruit and a finish that morphs into cocoa-y, clingy, smoky, gravelly flavors. Loads of very soft tannin. Very drinkable right now, it will last another year or so at this level. A sure crowd-pleaser. B+/A-. Imported by Patrick Mata's Olé Imports. Was $12 at World Market Place (Richmond/West Loop).

2008 Speri "Vigneto La Roverina" VALPOLICELLA (Veneto, Italy)

Another textbook, flavorful, light-ish, food-friendly Valpo.

Medium dark ruby garnet. Nice nose of almond paste and ripe, winey cherries, along with crushed stones. High-toned, bright flavors of crisp cherries and minerals. Medium light bodied, with refreshing acids. Bone dry, minerally finish. B+/A-. I think this was around $16 at Central market, but I can't find the receipt. Imported by Empson USA.

2007 Marietta CABERNET SAUVIGNON (Alexander Valley, Cal.)

Very nice example of the big, ripe, earthy Alexander Valley style, but not overblown or overoaked, as so many California Cabernets are these days.

Saturated black ruby. Rich and intense nose: ripe cassis syrup, pungent graphite and liquid minerals. Attacks the palate with almost overripe dark berry and cassis fruit, giving way to smoky, sweet earth and tobacco notes. Lots of mouthcoating but fairly soft tannin. Very full-bodied. 88. Was $25.99 at Central Market.