Thursday, May 30, 2013

2009 Chateau L'Ermitage COSTIERES DE NIMES (Rhone Valley, France)

A really good value in a tasty, mature, flavorful, balanced, soft Rhone red.  50% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre, 20% Grenache.

Dark, black-ruby.  Nose full of ripe, rich blackberry essence and pungent, slightly scorchy minerally-stony scents.  Very soft and mouthfilling, with nose-paralleling, bone dry blackberry and scorched gravelly flavors, along with a dry underbrush component.  Full-bodied, but with good balancing acids.  A bit drying as the latter half of the finish, but this is a minor quibble, particularly if, like me, you're using this wine to wash down a bowl of pasta-and-meat sauce, or some such dish.  B/B+.  Was $9.99 at Total Wine in Fairfax.  Imported by Saranty Imports.

Sunday, May 26, 2013

SPANISH BRAISED CHICKEN WITH SPINACH/ALMOND PUREE

I made this up the other night, and had the Aglianico reviewed below with it.  I think I read a recipe that had the spinach/almond thing a few years ago, so I can't take credit for that concept.

½ chicken, but up into 5 pieces
1 bunch spinach, washed thoroughly
Good handful raw almonds
¼ large red onion, minced
2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed
¾ cup dry sherry (fino or manzanilla)
¾ cup chicken broth
Olive oil salt pepper

Toast up the almonds in a dry skillet or in the oven for 3-4 minutes.  Don’t burn.  Put in a bowl and set aside to cool. 
Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper, then brown well in a bit of olive oil a sauté pan.  When you flip them, add the garlic.  Try not to let the garlic burn too much while the chicken is browning or it will get bitter.  When the chicken is nicely browned, turn up the heat and add the sherry and broth, bring to a boil for 1-2 minutes, then turn down to very low and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes.
While the chicken’s simmering, splash 2-4 tablespoons of olive oil in a large coverable skillet or pot, and add the onions.  Soften over medium-low heat until they start to color.  Add the spinach with whatever water is clinging to the leaves (or, if the leaves are dry, add ¼ cup water), mix well with the sautéed onions and then cover and turn the heat down to low and stem until wilty-soft (5-6 minutes).
While the spinach is steaming, put the cooled toasted almonds in a food processor and pulse until finely ground.  When the spinach/onion mixture is done, squeeze out most of the liquid into a bowl, reserving the liquid).  Then add the spinach mixture to the food processor and pulse until it’s pureed with the almonds.
After the chicken has simmered for 30 minutes covered, turn the pieces and continue to simmer over low heat for 15-20 more minutes with the cover slightly askew.
When the chicken’s done, remove the pieces from the pan, and put them in a nice serving dish (the serving dish should be warm).  Season the braising liquid in the pan liberally with salt and pepper.  Return the pan to the heat and then mix in the pureed spinach/onion/almond mixture.  If there’s not much braising liquid left add some of the reserved spinach water.  When this sauce is heated through, pour over the chicken pieces.  Taste to see if the sauce needs more salt and pepper, since the spinach/almond puree needs a lot of both.  Serve over rice.
Serves 2-3 people, depending how big the chicken is.




Saturday, May 25, 2013

2008 Vigna Alta AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE (Southern Italy)

A very good value, this wine is fragrant, soft, full-flavored, and has a bit of complexity.  Hard to beat at $12.99.

Very dark black ruby.  Surprisingly youthful-looking for a 5-year old wine.  With air, the nosy displays lots of smoky, fragrant embers and sun-dried gravel, together with very nice blackberryish fruit.  Fairly full-bodied, but with excellent acidity for a southern Italian red, it got ripe, winey, dark berry fruit, with a nice gravelly overlay.  Fairly long finish, and loads of palate-refreshing acids.  This will work very well with pasta and meat sauce, or Italian tomatoey braises.  B+.  Got this from WTSO.com.  Imported by Superior Wines, Cranford, NJ.

Thursday, May 23, 2013

2011 Saladini Pilastri OFFIDA Pecorino (Marche, Italy)

I have drunk some Pecorinos before, but this is the first I've heard about "Offida" being a DOC . . . "G" to boot!  Pecorino is a white Italian varietal that's typically fragrant, fruity, crisp, and simple.  This one is a very nice example.

Light brassy gold color.  Fragrant nose of pears, citrus zest, chalky minerals, and a fleeting note that reminded me of the smell of largemouth bass slime (fishermen will know what I'm talking about).  A weird note in this context, but not unpleasant.  Mouthfilling, dry, gentle flavors of pear and minerals.  Very clean in the mouth.  I think this was about $12.99 at Total Wine in Fairfax.  Imported by Saranty Imports, White PLains, NY.

Sunday, May 19, 2013

2010 Columbia Crest CABERNET SAUVIGNON "Grand Estates" (Columbia Valley, Washington)

A simple but very flavorful red that shows off a very sweet, black cherryish side of Cabernet.  This wine does not skimp on flavor.  My main criticism is some noticeable residual sugar.

Black black ruby. Nose dominated by sweet, very ripe black cherry syrup scents, along with some nice fruitcake notes.  In the mouth, loads of very ripe black cherry and blackberry fruit, but little else.  Mercifully, no oakiness, but this wine, while very flavorful, is very simple.  While I got this at a chain restaurant (CPK) for $24, I imagine it should be around $10 in stores and supermarkets.  I'd rather drink this wine, which is true to its grapes, than some god-awful chocolatey, cab in the same price (that got its oak from chips), it's still way too simple to be recommended.  C+.

(Sorry, 2007 shown).

2010 Pithon-Paille CHINON "Vieilles Vignes" (Loire Valley, France)

A really zesty wine that is both drinking well now and will age.  Keeps changing as it gets exposed to more and more air.

Black ruby purple color.  The first night, it showed mostly the typical mineral oil, toasted walnut oil, and brambly underbrush I associate with Cab Francs from this northerly clime.  Then after two days under a Vacu-Vin, it started to display a lot more tangy, black cherry fruit.  It kept evolving over that third night, hitting notes of licorice and barnyard at various times, all the while keeping the faith with the black cherry fruit.  Fantastic acids, keeping this thing tangy and electric on the palate.  Bone dry, fresh, medium-bodied, soft-textured, and possessing a really pure, medium long finish.  Very engaging.  A-.  Was $25.99 from Winex.com.  Imported by Aliane Wines, San Diego.

Tuesday, May 14, 2013

2009 Domaine La Florane VISAN Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages (Southern France)

Liquid minerals!  Terroir freaks will go ga-ga over this one.  Actually, I did too.  It's really fine.

Very dark ruby but still with significant violet highlights.  Incredibly mute upon first being poured without a Vinturi, it was a little more forthcoming when I used the Vinturi.  But it still needed an hour to start showing itself.  When it did, however, it was really nice.  Nose completely dominated by all manner of minerals:  powdered stone, liquid metallic/iodiney, and lightly scorched earth scent.  Under all that tectonic stuff was some ripe, oozy, sultry blackberry fruit.  In the mouth, the flavors immediately migrate, as though drawn by a powerful magnet, to the sides of the tongue and mouth, and tenaciously cling there, showing loads of melted minerals and hard blackberry jam candy fruit.  Loads of soft tannin and decent acids provide the structure for the full-bodied wine.  Very long finish.  A.  I really like this very unique style.  Was $18.99 from WineAccess.com.  Imported by Fleet Street Wine Merchants.

Saturday, May 11, 2013

2010 Paul Jaboulet Aine COTES DU RHONE "Parallel 45" (Rhone Valey, France)

This widely available Toyota Corolla of reds is, as almost always, a flavorful, good value.  Not the most fragrant wine, but delivers lots of ripe, concentrated flavors in a very soft, easygoing style.  60% Grenache/40% Syrah.

Nearly fully-saturated black ruby with still some violet glints.  Reluctantly gives up subtle aromas of ripe blackberries and smoky sandstone.  Concentrated rich fruit fills the mouth.  Dark blackberry and scorched earth flavors.  Loads of reasonably fine-grained (for a $12.99 wine) tannins.  Long, clingy, if not very complex finish.  This is a very good value.  B/B+.  Got this at Whole Foods in Arlington.

Thursday, May 09, 2013

2008 Domaine Dublere VOLNAY 1er CRU LES PITURES (Burgundy, France)

This is a complex, leaner styled Burgundy.  Fragrant, balanced.  All it lacks is a little more oomph in the mid-palate.

Medium ruby color with garnet highlights, and some browning at the rim.  With air, the nose reveals multiple scents:  ripe yet slightly sour cherry, pleasantly subdued woody notes, damp, gravelly earth, maple syrup.  Initially fills the mouth, then leans out quickly, but minerally, sour cherry syrup notes cling in the finish.  A very nice wine to have with a roast chicken.  Drink up over the next 18 months.  B+.  Imported by Chelsea Ventures, Chicago, this was $29.99 from Flickingerwines.com.

Monday, May 06, 2013

2011 Chapoutier "Bila-Haut" COTES DU ROUSSILLON VILLAGES (South Central France)

A fleshy, meaty, soft, wine that is full of character and modestly priced.  Fantastic cookout wine.

Dark blackish ruby with a slight violet tinge.  Animated, ripe nose of meaty notes, ripe blackberries, and a combination of spice cake and warm crushed rocks and sandstone.  Mouthfilling flavors, but fairly easy-going texture.  Full body and lots of fine-grained tannins.  Loads of pure blackberry skin fruit along with a very clingy, roasted herb/iodiney, minerals component that clings to the sides of the mouth. Long, pure finish.  B+/A-.  Was $12.99 at Whole Foods in Arlington/Clarendon.  Imported by HB Wine Merchants, NY, NY.

Thursday, May 02, 2013

2010 Domaine du Galet des Papes CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE "Vieilles Vignes" (Rhone Valley, France)

A deceptively easy-going yet potentially serious wine.  Still very young, it is quite primary now but shows nice texture and very good length.

Very dark ruby/violet.  Straightforward scents of ripe blackberry and black raspberry fruit, accented by notes of hot stones and dry underbrush.  Soft, mouthfilling, ripe, and full-bodied in the mouth.  Lots of incredibly fine-grained nano-tannins.  Very nice concentration and length with loads of licorice, cassis, and minerals.  This wine will by dynamite in 2-4 years.  B+(+).  Was $24.99 from WTSO.com, making it a very good buy for a Rhone wine of this aging ability and class.    Imported by Citadel Trading Co., NY, NY.

(Sorry, 2001 label shown, but the 2010 looks the same.)

Tuesday, April 23, 2013

2008 Talty ZINFANDEL "Estate" "William Talty Vineyard" (Dry Creek Valley, Cal.)

A vibrant, fruity, direct Zinfandel.  Not overblown.  Very nice on its own or with dinner.  A bit pricey though.  Surprisingly, comes in a Burgundy-shaped bottle.

Dark ruby color.  Intense, perfumey nose of spiced blackberries (like blackberry pie) and steely, stony minerals.  Soft, balanced, and quite concentrated in the mouth, with loads of fruit and minerals, and very nice acids to boot.  Full-bodied, with good length.  No great complexity of flavors, but lots of character.  B/B+.  Was $21.99 from WTSO.com.

(Sorry, 2010 shown.)

Thursday, April 11, 2013

2011 Domaine du Salvard CHEVERNY Rose (Loire Valley, France)

A full-flavored, juicy, dry, mouth-wateringly crisp rose.  Not a lot of complexity or elegance, but it's balanced and fun.  I think that the roses from this area comprise Pinot Noir, Gamay, and Pineau d'Aunis, but I'm not sure of which ones and in which amounts they're in this wine.

Gorgeous pinky/salmon color.  Tons of fruit on the loud nose, watermelon, grapes, lemon juice, strawberry, cherry.  A bit of minerality, but, mostly, this is about the fruit.  Great acids keep this very lively.  A great wine to have on hand for those May/June picnics.  B+.

Imported by Kermit Lynch, I got this wine for $13.99 from B-21 Wines in Florida.  Great buy!

Tuesday, April 09, 2013

2007 Domaine Haut du Terres Blanches CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE (Rhone Valley, Southern France)

A quick note on this amazing wine, which I had at the relatively new French bistro in Houston, L'Olivier.  In a word:  amazing.  One of the best CDPs I've had in a very long time.  A solid A.  Unbelievably fragrant, balanced, full flavored, and long.  Sweet berry fruit, loads of garrigue scents.  This is from memory, so sorry it's not more detailed, but if you see this wine, get some!  At its peak right now.  Will hold for 4-5 years.

BTW, the food at L'Olivier was excellent.  Classic bistro fare, beautifully executed.

2009 Domaine de la Janasse COTES DU RHONE (Southern France)

Well, my sinus infection has finally subsided to the point where my sense of smell has returned.  So I popped the cork on a Cotes du Rhone that turned out to be funky and have a lot of character.

Nearly fully saturated color -- black violet-tinged ruby.  Funky nose, but in a Rhone-y way.  Loads of faintly barnyardy earth, iodine, smoky gravel, and spicy black raspberry and black cherry.  Big and flavorful, but with excellent acids, this wine has full-throttle flavors but not a whole lot of elegance.  Ripe fruit, but very dry and minerally, with those liquid minerals clinging for dear life to the insides of your mouth.  Long finish.  B+.
Was a remarkable $12.99 from B-21 Wines in Florida.  That's a great buy for this much character.  Imported by Eric Solomon Selections.

Wednesday, March 27, 2013

2008 Porerra "Black Slate" "Vi de la Vila" (Montsant, Spain)

I have a bad cold, yet even through my severely compromised taste buds and sense of smell, I can tell this is dynamite.  Unbelievably concentrated and long.  Without being ponderous!  Stay tuned.  I'll do a more detailed post when I drink my second bottle.  Or better yet, go get some right now.  Was $18 from Winex.com.  Imported by Eric Solomon.

Friday, March 22, 2013

2010 Chateau Duplessis (Moulis-en-Medoc, Bordeaux)

A decent, modestly-priced Bordeaux.  68% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, and some Cab Franc and Petit Verdot.  Very shy and reserved now, it may well be significantly better in  a few years.

Gorgeous color:  deeply-saturated and luminescent ruby-violet.  Very shy nose that reluctantly gives up a little whiff of brambly twigs, lightly charred oak, and cassis.  But you really have to work the sniffing to get it.  Tightly-wound flavors of lightly-scorched earth, minerals and a bit of cassis.  Dry, tight, and with a fair amount of tannin.  Medium full body, and pretty good acids.  Pretty good length.  This is a wine that needs at least 2-4 years of age to open up.  Right now, it's a B-, but with potential to come in higher after it opens up.  Got it on sale for $14.99 at Total Wine in Fairfax, VA.   Imported by Saranty Imports, White Plains, NY.

Monday, March 18, 2013

2011 Vinademoya BIERZO (Northern Spain)

This is an outstanding wine and a ridiculous value.  Loaded with dark flavors and with a nice sense of elegance.  Apparently composed of very old vine (many over 100 years) Mencia.

Fully saturated, impenetrable violet-ruby.  Intense nose of low-toned, ripe, black cherry, crushed dark stones, and smoke.  Very dry, with lots of very fine-grained tannin, this wine immediately coats the entire mouth and the finish just hangs around and hangs around.  The concentration of dark cherry fruit is remarkable, yet it's in no way over-extracted or too jammy.  It's almost freakish that a wine this intense could have a sense of elegance, but this does.  The acids are pretty low, but, again, the wine seems in perfect harmony despite this.  This could probably improve over the next 2-3 years, but, really, why wait?  A.  Was $9.99 from WTSO.com.  Imported by Classic Wines, Stamford, CT.

Tuesday, March 12, 2013

2011 Nostrada GARNACHA (Campo de Borja, Spain)

Tasty, balanced, and cheap.  A great weeknight dinner wine.

Bright, luminescent ruby color.  Laid-back nose of ripe, raspberries and raspberry syrup, along with powdered stone dust.  Fairly full-bodied, bone dry, with intensely minerally dry raspberry fruit along with a smoky, bitter-root thing in the finish.  The bitterness at the end probably nixes this as a cocktail/party wine, but it went really well with Thai take-out.  B.  Was $8.99 from Total Wine in Fairfax, VA.  Imported by Saranty Imports, White Plains, NY.


Thursday, March 07, 2013

2007 Ottimino ZINFANDEL "Biglieri Vineyard" (Dry Creek Valley, Cal.)

Of the three Ottimino Vineyard Zins I've had (the other two from vineyards in the Russian River Valley), this is the best.    Ripe, but with claret-like structure.  Really fine.

Very dark black ruby, with just a hint of lightening at the rim.  Complex nose of pure black raspberry syrup, sandstone, and baking spices.  Ripe, yet bone dry in the mouth, with nice structure and still quite a bit of soft tannin remaining.  Lengthy, pure finish that goes on an unusually long time.  Good acids yet quite full.  This is one of the best Zins I've had in a long time.  A.  I got this over a year ago from WineAccess.com . . .  but I don't remember how much I paid (sorry!).