2008 Domaine Dublere SAVINGY-LES-BEAUNE "Les Planchots du Nord" (Burgundy, France)

A shockingly light-colored wine, but with real fragrance and flavor.  A very good value Pinot Noir from the largely overpriced Burgundy region.

Very light garnet color -- almost like an old, oak-aged rose would look.  Scents of minerally cherries and fresh-baked honey whole wheat bread.  Lively, medium-light bodied flavors have surprising intensity, tenaciously clinging to the palate with earthy, crisp cherries.  Long, vivacious finish, with good acidity.  It's a unique style of Pinot Noir.  It went very well with whole wheat macaroni with cheese and bacon, and would also do nicely with tomato-less chicken dishes.  B+.  Was about $22 on sale from Flickinger Wines, Chicago.  Imported by Chelsea Ventures, Chicago.

2010 Fattoria Vignavecchia CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

A direct, lively, fruity, balanced, and flavorful entry level Chianti Classico.  A good value wine to stockpile for weekday pasta dinners.

Surprisingly extracted black, black ruby color.  Loads of youthful black cherry fruit and minerals on the nose.  No hint of oak here, just pure fruit and stones.  Decent weight, and a good, linear attack.  A fair amount of tannin, as well as good acids.  This will soften and get more fragrant over the next two years.  B. Was $12.99 from WTSO.com, making it a really good value.  Imported by Superior Wines, Cranford, NJ.

2009 Foris PINOT NOIR (Rogue Valley, Oregon)

A tight, lean, but flavorful PN.  Not as forward and fruity as California versions, but more along the spectrum toward a nice villages wine from the Cote de Beaune.

Dark, clear crystalline ruby.  Very tight at first, the wine reluctantly starts to give up scents of cherry syrup and loads of stony minerals.  Bone dry, with lean but persistent flavors of underbrush, dry cherry extract, and lots and lots of minerals.  Full-bodied, with average acids.  Needs some time in the cellar to soften, but it's still nice now.  B(+). Was about $20 from wineaccess.com.

2010 Regis Minet POUILLY-FUME "Vieilles Vignes" (Loire Valley, France)

A slightly grassy, balanced, and refreshing Sauvignon-Blanc.  Not as flinty/minerally as I usually want out of this appellation, but very nice.

Light silvery/gold color.  Grassy herbs and fresh gooseberry fruit dominate the lively nose, with only a hint of minerality.  Bone dry, herbal, straw-inflected lime/gooseberry fruit, with crisp acids for freshness, and a clean but somewhat bitter finish.  Good, but not great.  Would be a really nice counterpoint with sweet grilled shrimp or seared sweet scallops.  B.  Was $18.99 from Winex.com. Imported by Kermit Lynch.

2010 Three Vineyards ZINFANDEL "Live Oak Vineyard" (Contra Costa County, Cal.)

From the last few remaining 125+ yr.-old ungrafted vines in this largely uprooted vineyard, this wine has a plush texture, and an intense concentration of flavor that is out of proportion to its weight (which is not heavy).  Very unique.  And really really good.

Nearly fully-saturated dark ruby violet.  Intense, nearly pungent boysenberry fruit, stony minerals, and bitter herbs leap out of the glass.  Intense, focused fruit immediately coats the mouth, with loads of mixed berry and berry skin flavors, and lots of high-toned minerality.  No discernable oak to obscure this tremendous character of the old vines and unique soil.  Full-bodied, with pretty decent acids.  Very long, pure finish.  Just outstanding to sip on its own, it would also complement a wide variety of dishes and cheeses.  A.  Was $27 from WineAccess.com, but obviously worth the  high (for me) price.

2009 Tenuta Vicario AGLIANICO CAMPANIA (Southern Italy)

A big, rustic Aglianico, with a very roasted nose/flavor profile and a broad texture.

Completely saturated black black ruby.  Low-toned and woodsy/brambly on the nose, with very dark blackberry fruit, and dark baker's chocolate and scorched earth.  Bone dry in the mouth, with very minerally-tinged cassis fruit, with pungent roasted herbs abounding.  Loads of medium-fine-grained tannins coat the mouth.  Good acidity, and full-body too, so the balance is nice.  It's just that the flavor profile is kinda rustic.  B for now, but it might soften and improve over the next 2-3 years.  I got this while eating at Pupatella pizzeria in Arlington (which makes amazing true Napolitana pizzas and fritture), and then took the rest home.  Imported by Michael R. Downey Selections, Lorton, VA.

2007 Tedeschi "Capitel dei Nicalo" VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE (Veneto, Italy)

A good value, fully mature, fairly complex Valpo. Tedeschi has been a very good producer in this region for several decades.  I used to carry a Tedeschi Capitel San Rocco Valpo in the wine shop I managed back in the mid-80s, and it was very good as I recall.  This wine is neither fish nor fowl; it's a unique style. Weight and body-wise, it's mid-way between a normal Valpo and Ripasso style.

Dark blackish garnet color.  Big, animated, earthy, yeasty nose with loads of ripe but tartish berry fruit.  Mouthfilling and flavorful, this wine counterbalances intensity and a light mouthfeel.  Very earthy, mature, satisfying flavors, with dark, dry berry skin fruit.  Bone dry, with some drying but soft tannin that is slow to leave.  Bit of pleasant bitterness appears in the finish.  Good, lively acids.  I give it a B+, but others who aren't fond of earthy wines may not like it as much.  Was $14.99 from Winex.com.  Imported by Dreyfus/Ashby, NYC.

(Sorry, 2006 shown.)

2008 Saddleback Cellars ZINFANDEL "Old Vines" (Napa Valley, Cal.)

A big, dark low-toned, intensely-flavored, and significantly-oaked Zinfandel.  Not my favorite style, but still, very well done.

Fully-saturated, plasma-like, black ruby-crimson.  Low-toned nose of smoky sandstone and earth, minerals, dark blackberry skins, and espresso roast coffee.  Dense flavors immediately coat the mouth, with chocolatey-dark berry flavors and a lot of graphite-inflected minerals.  Dense and large-boned.  Loads of soft tannin and very full body.  Drink this one in mid-winter with a winey stew and it will shine.  B+.  Was $27 from WineAccess.com.

(Sorry, 2007 shown.)

2010 Beckman Vineyards GRENACHE "Estate" (Santa Ynez Valley, Cal.)

A zesty, herb-tinged and very quaffable style of Grenache.  Not as big and earthy as Chateauneufs, or as powerful, weighty, and densely-fruity as the best old vine Spanish Garnachas.  This is a wine that doesn't necessarily shine on its own, but fits in beautifully with a meal.

Dark, magenta-shot ruby.  Bright, slightly tartish raspberry fruit coupled with mixed green herbs on the shy nose.  Much more animated in the mouth than the as yet undeveloped nose suggests, it fills the mouth with earthy, iodine-tinged, herby black raspberry fruit.  Lots of youthful but soft tannin, and very good acids provide nice framework.  Medium-full-bodied, with pretty good concentration.  As the finish wears on (it's a long one), the fruit lingers and comes more into focus.  This wine will age nicely for 2-3 years, but if you like them young, it works nicely now too (but run it through a Vinturi or decant it to allow it to develop.  B(+).  Was $22.99 from WineAccess.com.  Neither a good nor bad value at that price.

2007 Col d'Orcia ROSSO DI MONTALCINO "Banditella" (Tuscany, Italy)

One of the best, and best value Rosso di Montalcinos I've had.  Fragrant, deep, ripe, complex, and textured.

Very saturated black ruby/garnet with brick edges.  Deep, very ripe blackberry and plummy fruit together with loads of fragrant gravel and minerals on the nose.  Intense, deep-toned flavors of pungent graphite-laced earth and bone-dry essence of blackberry extract.  Lots of medium fine-grained tannins and full body give lots of oomph, and the finish is long and chewy.  I can't imagine this improving much, so drink over the next 18 months.  A-.  Was $14.99 from WTSO.com.  Imported by Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL.

2010 Mas de Gourgonnier LES BAUX DE PROVENCE (Southern France)

This wine is consistently a very good wine and very good value.  It's always organically made from 50-60 year-old vines, and tastes like a traditional Provencal red.  The 2010 is definitely up to past quality standards.

Very dark blackish ruby with a violet tinge.  Dark rich, ripe berry fruit, equaled measure-for-measure by scents of graphite and sandstone.  Low-toned minerally fruit coats the mouth, with lots of youthful tannin.  Full-bodied, with good concentration, but no alcohol peeking through.  It actually seems a bit tight.  Very long finish, and nice balance.  Will keep and improve for 2-4 years, but drinking well now for those who, like me, like 'em young (we're talking wines here, of course).  B+.  Was $15.99 at Whole Foods in Alexandria (Old Town).  Imported by Dionysos Imports, Manassas, VA.

(Sorry, 2005 depicted)

2010 Birichino GRENACHE "Vieilles Vignes Besson Vineyards" (Central Coast, Cal.)

Grown in the Santa Cruz Mountain area, this Grenache (from 101 year-old vines, grown on its original roots), shows off intense cherry fruit with a bit of black raspberry, along with a pungently stony minerality.  It's very good, balanced, and focused, and not at all the fruit bomb one would expect from such old Grenache vines in California.  In fact, it's a little on the lean side.  This wine would do very well with pasta in a good meat sauce or grilled burgers.

Deep violet-tinged ruby. Dry cherry extract coats the mouth, along with stony minerals.  Lots of soft tannin, as well as acids and alcohol.  Not very complex, but satisfying and athletic in a linear way.  B+.  Was $17.99 from Winex.com.

2007 la Maia Lina CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA (Tuscany, Italy)

A solid Chianti with good depth of flavor and balance but a little shy on the nose.

Deep, youthful, vibrant dark ruby color.  Fantastic nose that I wish was a bit more animated, but as it is it shows rich, ripe, sweet cherry extract, warm gravel, and a bit of lemon juice.  Rich and mouthfilling, with deep cherry fruit and a nice, clean, minerally earthiness.  Lots of soft tannin and good acidity add structure and balance, and the finish is long.  Not a classically-built, old-school Chianti, but a very good example of the modern style.  A-/B+.  Was $13.99 from winex.com, making it a very good value.  Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates, NYC.

2004 La Lecciaia BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA (Tuscany, Italy)

A big, earthy Brunello that, on the first night, almost seemed over the hill.  But I put it under a Vacu-Vin for a night, and on night two it seemed more youthful, with more fruit showing through.  That indicates this wine probably needs to be decanted for a few hours on the first night it's opened in order to shine.

Dark, very brickish red color.  Medium intensity nose of underbrush, warm sandstone, and dark winey black cherry syrup.  Intense, broad, and mouthfilling.  Loads of dark, rich roasted cherry fruit and earthy sandstone notes coat the mouth.  Loads of soft tannin and pretty decent acidity.  Long finish.  A bit earthier in style than I prefer, but those who like this side of Brunello will probably like this a lot.  B+.  Drink over the next 1-2 years, and be sure to give it plenty of time to breathe.  Imported by Monsieur Touton Selections, I got this for $24.99 (pretty cheap for a good quality Brunello, actually).

UPDATE (11/10/12):  A second bottle was older and more tired.   I would give #2 a C+.

2010 Vega Sindoa "EL CHAPARRAL" Old Vines Garnacha (Navarra, Spain)

A pure, balanced, deep red that shows off the cherryish side of garnacha.

Absolutely vibrating magenta ruby.  Nose of deep, ripe, but crisp black cherries, smoky embers, and minerals.  Wonderful, high-toned cherryish/slightly raspberryish fruit, with lots of limestony minerals.  Good concentration and depth.  Some soft tannins coat the mouth, and the finish is medium long, pure, and lively.  Very food-friendly, this wine is the furthest thing from tiring to drink.  It will keep well for a few more years and is a great value.  A-. $10.99 from Winex.com.  Imported by Jorge Ordonez.

2009 Domaine Mazilly Pere & Fils BEAUNE 1er CRU "VIGNES FRANCHES" (Burgundy, France)

This is an energetic, electric Pinot Noir that is way too young to drink now.  It deserves at least 2-3 years to settle down and mellow and fill out, but make no mistake, it's really nice right now if you like your PNs zingy and youthful.

Bright, crystalline dark ruby.  Piercing nose of crisp, tangy, ripe cherries, stony minerals, brown sugar, and a whiff of fruitcake.  An intense, linear streak of minerally cherries with a hint of dry barnyard gravel hits the palate immediately.  There's a bit of tannin and zesty acids to keep the vigorous sensations going.  Long, lean, clean finish.  Very, very good.  An A- now, this has the potential to be an "A" in 3-5 years.  Was $26.99 from WTSO.com, making it a bargain for a premier cru Beaune of this quality!  Imported by MHW, Ltd., Manhasset, NY.

(Sorry, 2008 depicted)

2009 Domaine Louis Boillot SAINT-AUBIN 1er CRU "LES CASTETS" (White Burgundy, France)

A fragrant wine, with nice flavors, balance, and length, but a little undernourished in the mid-palate.

Light gold with silver/greenish highlights.  Toasty, hazelnut and brown butter notes dominate the nose, with nice pear fruit and stony minerality underneath.  Soft and full in the mouth, with oaky and mineral flavors overshadowing the fruit a bit.  Bone-dry, with good acidity, and after the lean midpalate the finish stretches out and lasts for a while.  B/B+.  Was $23 fro WTSO.com.  Imported  by MHW, Ltd, NYC.

2009 J. Lohr CABERNET SAUVIGNON "Seven Oaks" (Paso Robles, Cal.)

This wine was a gift, and I was ready to use it strictly for cooking, but it was actually pretty decent.  I'm not a huge fan of middle-of-the-road California Cabernet, but this was nicely done.  It's apparently widely available at around $11 or $12.

Pretty, dark ruby color.  Pleasant nose of dark berry fruit, vanillin from oak, and a touch of menthol.  Soft, round entry, with nice clean berry and oak flavors.  Not very concentrated or complex, but it's hard to find anything wrong with it.  It's just not my cup of tea, but plenty of folks will like it, I'm sure. C+/B-.

2010 Chapoutier CÔTES DU RHÔNE "Belleruche" (Southern France)

A mediocre Cotes du Rhone, but at least I didn't spend too much for it.  Not nearly up to the level of their excellent 2007.

Deep violet-tinged ruby color.  Reticent nose of meat, iron, scorched gravel and blackberry.  Drying tannins coat the mouth from the get-go, detracting from the fruit and lending a coarser than usual texture.  Lean, with a dried leaves-type scorchiness obscuring the fruit.  A disappointing effort from this normally superlative house.  C-.  Was $11.99 on sale at the Giant supermarket, Columbia Pike and S. Barton.

2010 Chateau Thivin CÔTE DE BROUILLY (Beaujolais, France)

A vigorous, lean and intensely minerally Beaujolais.  This is typically one of my favorite estates in Beaujolais, but I think they've recently started making different cuvees, and this is the basic bottling.  I am a little fearful that this will result in the same thing that's pervading Chateauneuf-du-Pape, where reserve cuvees have led to diminishing quality in the wines bearing the regular (and previously only) label.

Medium dark violet-tinged grapey ruby color.  A nose reminiscent of crisp plum and cherry juice poured over sharp, just-cracked stones.  Lots of crisp, minerally and grapey/cherry fruit hit the palate immediately, but there's a little hollowness in the middle.  A crisp, zesty finish carries with it a surprising amount of soft tannin.  A little angular but a very pleasant dinner wine with rustic food.  B.  Was $19.99, but I forgot where I got it.  Imported by Kermit Lynch.