2007 Scilio ETNA ROSSO (Sicily, Italy)

I'm seeing many more Sicilian wines on the market these days, and to my taste Etna Rosso is usually one of the most elegant ones.  Even though Sicily bakes under an intense sun, Etnas tend to retain good acidity and balance.

This one was a little older than I usually look for in an Etna, but it was still drinking very well, and was one of the most minerally wines I've ever drunk.  Like drinking the liquid essence of barren volcanic soil.  Very good, and very unique.  Terroir freaks (I guess I'm kind of one) may enjoy it more than those who like lots of fruit or lots of oak or both.

Dark ruby garnet in color.  Loads of minerals and smoky, gun flinty gravel beat out the winey cherry and plummy fruit.  Full-bodied (14.5% alc.), but had a soft texture and good acidity.  Not much tannin.  Nothing but smoky minerals on the finish.  B+/A-.  Drink over the next year so the fruit doesn't totally pack up and leave.  Was about $20 at Houston Wine Merchant.  Imported by North Berkeley Imports.

2009 "Picos del Montgo" Old Vines GARNACHA (Carinena, Spain)

Raspberries, raspberries, raspberries.  This wine has a one-track mind, but I'm not arguing.  It's delicious and cheap.

Deep and vibrant ruby with violet highlights.  The nose of this wine is buckets of super pure, ripe, tangy oozing raspberries.  Unbelievable purity.  Lively and full-bodied, this wine features perfectly ripe, balanced raspberry fruit along with juts a wee bit of dry, minerally, stony gravel.  Finish is decently long but very pure, with some soft tannin on display.  Not complex, and lacking just a bit of concentration in the second half of the palate, but otherwise a real kick to sniff and drink.  Drink over the next 12-18 months.  B+.  Imported by Regency Wine Group (a California outfit I've never heard of), I got this from World Marketplace on Richmond near the West Loop for about $9 and change.

2008 Durigutti BONARDA (Mendoza, Argentina)

Bonarda is a grape native to northwest Italy, in the Novara region, where it typically is blended with Nebbiolo (Spanna) in several of the DOC wines of the area (like Ghemme, Boca, Fara, etc.).  On its own there, it's no great shakes, but in the Mendoza region of Argentina it seems to have more character.  This one is a very good, flavor-filled everynight dinner wine, and an excellent value.

Very vivid, dark ruby/violet.  Vivacious nose of tangy plum and mixed berry fruit, along with loads of chalky rock dust and a high-toned smoky component.  Richly-fruited in the mouth, yet with a vibrancy that buoys up its full-bodied frame.  Loads of rich, earthy, dry dark berry fruit fills the mouth, and leads to a long, clean, clingy finish with some noticeable but soft tannin.  Not super complex, but very satisfying.  B+.  Will go with lots of pastas and Italian meat dishes, stews, and braises.  Was $11 and change at Spec's on Smith.

UPDATE (11/28/11):  I just read somewhere that Argentine Bonarda is NOT the same thing as the Bonarda grown in the Novara region of Italy, but, in fact, is the Charbono grape native to the Savoie region of France.  Well, I guess that would explain why Argentine Bonarda tastes and feels very different from its Italian namesake. 

2007 Domaine de la Terre Rouge TÊTE-À-TÊTE (Sierra Foothills, California)

This was a very nice surprise!  I'd seen this blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, and Grenache (according to the winery website)  in Spec's several times and almost picked it up, and finally my curiosity got the best of me.  And I was glad it did.  It reminded me of a very well done, drinkable style Vacqueyras from the Rhone.

Blackish dark ruby.  Loads of stony minerals and spicy blackberry fruit in the nose.  Mouthfilling and medium full-bodied, it was filled with sandstoney, stony, iodine-laced dark berry fruit.  Loads of soft tannin are present, and the flavors are very clingy in the long, pleasurable finish.  A-.  Was $14 at Spec's on Weslayan/Bissonnett.  Get some of this!

2009 Atteca "Old Vines" GARNACHA (Grenache) (Calatayud, Spain)

An excellent buy in a pure-tasting, very full-bodied but balanced red.

Rich, almost completely saturated black ruby/violet color.  Inviting, forceful aromas of tangy, ripe, oozing blackberries and raspberries over fragrant, dry, stony gravel notes.  Weighty and mouthfilling, this had very pure-tasting dark raspberry syrup fruit accented with smoky stoniness.  Not very complex but very satisfying.  Very full, but with good enough acids to carry it off.  A bit of tannin and a tad bit of heat on the finish, but I wouldn't age a wine this high in alcohol that long; drink within the next 18 months.  B+/A-.  Imported by Jorge Ordonez, this was about $12 at Spec's.

2009 Foxglove ZINFANDEL (Paso Robles, Cal.)

AVOID.  This was flat, heavy, and lifeless.  D-  It was moderately-priced ($14 and change at Spec's), but it sucked.

2009 Domaine de le Chapelle MÂCON SOLUTRÉ POUILLY (White Burgundy, France)

A superb, crisp, minerally, flavorful, unoaked Chardonnay.  If you like Chablis Premier Crus but don't want to spend $30+ for a good one, this is your poor man's version.

Very unusual gold color that was inflected with almost a very light tan tint.  Gorgeously fragrant nose of bright, chalky earth and crisp pear/green apple/not-quite-ripe-peach fruit.  Bright, mouthwatering, pure flavors of slightly bitter citrus and pear over crushed limestone.  Long, pure, clean finish.  Very nicely done.  A-.  Was about $18 at Spec's on Smith.  Imported by Weygandt-Metzler.

(Sorry, 2007 shown)

2009 Frey ZINFANDEL (Mendocino County, Cal.)

This completely organic, sulfite-free wine was a decent value in a simple, balanced, everynight meal wine, but it didn't taste like a typical Zin.

Fairly-deep plummy ruby-garnet color.  Direct and pure-smelling with spiced plum and cherry syrup fruit.  Decently mouthfilling, with soft ripe red fruit that morphs in the finish into a toasted nut quality.  Went really well with Chicken Parm with over spaghetti.  Some tannin, but it's soft.  B-.  Was about $15 at Spec's on Weslayan/Bissonnett.

2007 Domaine de le Rossignole SANCERRE "Cuvée Vieilles Vignes" (Loire Valley, France)

Liquid extract of the chalky, prehistoric seashell-laden soil of this region.  Old school.  I love the Sauvignon Blancs from this "tri-town" area (encompassing Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé, and Menetou-Salon).

Light, bright pure gold color. Very chalky, earthy (not in a barnyardy way, however) nose, with notes of tart citrus and chicken broth.  Intensely limestone-y minerally flavors, with some lightly herbal, bone dry, crisp gooseberry fruit.  Minerally finish goes on and on.  Good acids and balance.  Those who like fruitier or more overtly herbal styled Sancerres may not go for this one, but I did.  A-.  I got this for around $18 at Spec's on Richmond near the West Loop a few months ago, so they may be on to a more recent vintage by now.

2009 Chateau Robin (Lussac-St.-Emilion, Bordeaux, France)

Solid, decent value, old-fashioned everyday Bordeaux.  Mostly Merlot, with some Cab Franc and a little Cabernet Sauvignon blended in.  Typical proportions for the St. Emilion side of the Gironde River.

Vivid blackish ruby.  Nice, youthful nose of dried underbrush and plummy fruit, along with a bit of fragrant crushed stone.  Bone dry and surprisingly tannic for a lower-end St. Emilion (which are usually made for short-term drinking), this wine grips the palate with dry cassis extract and brambly gravel flavors.  Pretty good concentration, medium-full body, but a somewhat short finish.  Not bad for the price.  B-.  Needs a year or two to settle down a bit more.  Was $13.99 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

2008 Firriato ETNA ROSSO (Sicily, Italy)

This is a blend of 80% Nerello Mascalese 20% Nerello Cappuccio grown on the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna, and it is a WINNER.  Just electric in its nose and mouthfeel, with complexity and great balance.


Vibrant dark ruby color.  Fantastic nose of electric, stony/mineral-infused dark cherries with subtle wisps of fragrant woodsmoke.  (Those words don't do it justice -- it smells captivating.)  Intensely minerally and bright flavors.  Like sucking on a mouthful of freshly chipped rocks and ripe/tart cherries mixed with cherry jam.  Excellent acids make this thing dance, and the finish is long, clingy, and pure.  It went awesomely (can awesome be an adverb?) with a spinach pasta in a rich, cured meats, basil and parsley laced tomato sauce with squares of melting fresh mozzarella.  It will be a great accompaniment to any Italian tomatoey/winey braise or pasta dish.  A.  Imported by Margaux and Associates, I got this for about $20 at Spec's on Smith. 

2009 Domaine La Manarine CÔTES DU RHÔNE (France)

This is an extraordinarily elegant and balanced wine, particularly from such a "lowly" appellation.  Excellent!  A bit more expensive than most Côtes du Rhônes, but worth every penny.

Clear dark ruby with garnet highlights.  Very pure nose of spicy blackberry, lightly roasted dried herbs, stony minerals, and a wisp of fragrant smoke.  Very soft, mouthfilling flavors, yet with a light mouthfeel.  Lots of herb/iodine-inflected dark berry fruit, followed by a clingy finish gradually revealing quite a bit of very soft tannin as the minerally notes fade away to show the structure underneath.  Couldn't stop sniffing and sipping this one.  A.  Was $18.99 at Houston Wine Merchant on South Shepherd.  Imported by Neal Rosenthal.

(Sorry:  2004 label depicted)

PS:  Some Internet research reveals that ubiquitous Rhône consultant Phillipe Cambie lists this estate as one of the estates he consults on.  I have criticized the growing use of Cambie before as a homogenizing force in the region (as other celebrity consultants are in other regions), but I have to admit, this is a really nice wine.  I will have to put aside my predispositions/prejudices and give the guy's wines a fresh assessment.

2009 "Beso de Vino" (85% Syrah, 15% Garnacha) (Carinena, Spain)

This was a pure tasting, simple but satisfying value-priced red.  Great for weeknight meals.

Nearly saturated black ruby.  Nose very fruity with loads of tangy raspberry and boysenberry scents over a little bit of smoky gravel.  Soft and fleshy in the mouth, medium-full bodied, with nicely concentrated, direct berry fruit.  Some very soft tannin lends a little structure.  Decently long, pure-tasting finish.  Everything nicely in balance.  Drink over the next year.  B+  Was $9 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.  Imported by Steve Miles Selections.

2009 MontGras "QUATRO" (50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Malbec, 15% Carmenere, and 15% Syrah) (Colchagua Valley, Chile)

I have had several vintages of this dark Chilean red and they have all been very good or better.  This is another winner, and it remains a very good value.

Completely saturated plasma color.  Wonderful nose of blackberry and ripe cassis, along with smoky balsa wood and lemony minerals.  Rich, mouthfilling flavors of blackberry syrup, graphite, and iodine-laced minerals.  Very full-bodied and tannic, but soft enough to drink now.  This wine will easily compete with California Cabernets costing three times as much, but this wine has less obtrusive oak and will go better with food.  Acidity is a bit low, but it doesn't feel flabby or out of balance.  B+.  I got this for around $13 at Kroger's on Westpark/Buffalo Speedway.

2007 Mas Champart SAINT-CHINIAN "Causse du Bousquet" (Languedoc, Southern France)

A really good and distinctive wine at its peak.*  65% Syrah, 15% Grenache; 20% Mourvedre.


Completely saturated black color with ruby highlights.  Deep, complex nose of blackberry compote, toasty, saline-tinged sandstone, and roast pork.  Mouthfilling, yet not as heavy as the color would lead you to expect.  It has intensely minerally/stony flavbors enveloping a core of very ripe cassis fruit.  Loads of tannin but it is so fine-grained that the textural impression is soft.  Very stone/minerally finish.  Surprisingly good acidity for a wine from this region (that's not to say the acidity is high, but that it's not too low).  Nicely balanced.  A-.  Imported by Kermit Lynch, I got this from Zachys.com several months ago for $16/bottle.


*  I say "at its peak" because while it was still good the second night, it started to noticeably deteriorate the third night, even though I had it vacuum sealed.  That generally indicates to me that a wine is at or near peaking.

Cheap Bourgogne Rouge Death Match (Bout 2)

On the next card we have Domaine Pierre Labet (one of Spec's featured producers) versus the ubiquitous house of Louis Latour.

First Place:  2008 Domaine Pierre Labet Bourgogne Pinot Noir "Vieilles Vignes" -- Medium light ruby.  Medium intensity nose of sappy, sour cherries and sweet, moist, smoky earth.  Bone dry, but with decent concentration of fruit in the mid-palate, along with a pronounced stony minerality.  Thins out a bit on the finish, but is clean and quite pleasant.  Still a bit of tannin showing.  Drink with the next 18 months. B.  Imported by Horizon Wines, Houston.  Was $19 and change at most Spec's stores.


Second Place:  2009 Louis Latour Bourgogne Pinot Noir -- Medium light ruby color.  Shy but fresh nose of sour cherry and minerals, with some lemon coated rock dust.  Crisp, very light flavors of vague cherry fruit and brambly twigs quickly spread through the mouth but thin out quickly.  Some tannin but not much weight of flavor concentration.  This wine has a bitterness that grows as the finish wears on.  C.   $16 and change at most Spec's stores (and lots of other places).



Moral of the Two Deathmatches:  This Burgundian throwdown nicely displayed the difficult reality of searching for bargain Burgundian Pinot Noirs:  the ones that are worth it (like the '09 Bertrand Ambroise) are few and far between.  Many are OK, but I'm usually left wishing I had spent my $15-20 on a Chianti Classico, a Cotes du Rhone, a Zinfandel, a Spanish Grenache, or a small grower Beaujolais-Villages.

Cheap Bourgogne Rouge Death Match

Since I wasn't able to do my Cotes du Rhone battle royale, when recent guests gifted me with a Joseph Drouhin "LaForet" Bourgone Pinot Noir -- a widely-available, reasonably-priced red burgundy -- I decided to pick two more at around the same price and open all three entry-level French PNs all at once.

The result:  CHEAP BURGUNDY DEATH MATCH.  I picked up the equally-widely-available and reasonably priced Louis Jadot Bourgogne, and, to throw in a David with these commercial Goliaths, a Bourgogne Rouge from the relatively smaller producer, Bertrand Ambroise.  Here are the results.

1st Place:  2009 Bertrand Ambroise Bourgogne -- The nose was very youthful, like it had just been bottled, but it had more body and flavor than the other two.  Bright ruby with magenta highlights.  Big, youthful nose of concentrated, crushed cherry and pomegranate, along with rock dust and grated lemon zest.  Youthful and mouthfilling (for a Bourgogne) with tightly wound black cherry and brambly earth flavors.  Fine-grained tannin coats the mouth as the clingy finish wears on.  This will keep and improve over the next three years.  B(+) (which means it's a B right now, but with age should get better).  Imported by Robert Kacher.  $19 and change at Spec's on Smith.

2nd Place:  2008 Joseph Drouhin "Laforet" Bourgone Pinot Noir -- This was more developed in the nose, and had nice, correct Pinot flavors, but was a little light.  Medium-light ruby showing a little amber hue.  Bright nose of pure, sappy, crisp cherries and a hint of stoniness.  Bright cherry fruit at first impression in the mouth, followed by some light but kind of coarse tannin.  Clean, but short and thin finish.  This is a pleasant wine but needs drinking up over the next 6 months.  B-.  Imported by Dreyfus-Ashby, it sells for $16 and change at Spec's.


3rd Place:  2008 Louis Jadot Bourgogne Pinot Noir -- This was light on the nose, light and somewhat lacking in life in the mouth, but had a clean finish.  Bright, medium ruby.  Relatively closed nose reluctantly gives up scents of tart cherry candy and chalk.  Correct but somewhat flat cherry flavors, but diluted-tasting.  Clean, medium length finish.  Drink over the next 12-18 months.  C+.  Imported by Kobrand, it was $17 and change at Spec's.

2009 Thibault Liger-Belair MOULIN-A-VENT "Vieilles Vignes" (Beaujolais, France)

This was a very good, very large-boned, soulful wine.  But I wasn't thrilled with it at first because it really tastes like it has little in common with Beaujolais from other towns in the region.  I think I am coming to the realization that, even though Moulin-a-Vent is considered by many the pinnacle of Beaujolais, it's just not a style I like as Beaujolais as much as the other communes (like Cote de Brouilly, Julienas, Regnie, etc.)  Moulin-a-Vents tend to be bigger, more structured, earthier, and do not have the crunchy, vibrant, granite-laced cherry fruit I love when I think of Beaujolais.

And perhaps that's my problem:  I'm measuring Moulin-a-Vents against a Beaujolais background, when, really, to me, it tastes like something other than Beaujolais.  Maybe I'd enjoy them more if I could purge my mind of "Beaujolais-think" when I'm drinking these.

Anyway . . .  This had an almost completely saturated, very black-hued ruby color.  It was extremely earthy at first in a dry, barnyardy kind of way, but after airing, intensely stony scents began to dominate, along with some crisp, dark cherry and plum skin fruit.  It was mouthfilling and bone dry, with intense acidity as well.  Exceedingly stony, minerally flavors dominate, but with blackberry fruit underneath all that terroir.  Long, dry, intense, and fairly tannic (for Beaujolais) finish.  This wine clearly needs some bottle ageing to settle down and let the flavors fill out to fit the physical structure of the wine.  Still, it's very enjoyable with food right now.  Just don';t think of it as a Beaujolais.  Think of it more as a Gigondas, but made with Gamay instead of Rhone varietals.  B+(+)*.  Was $25 from B-21 Wines in Florida.

* The "(+)" means that the wine may well improve with 1-3 years in a cool cellar or wine fridge.

NV Segura Viudas BRUT ROSÉ (Spain)

Our guests the Murphys brought this over, and it got polished off before I could take notes, so these impressions are from memory.

Very nice pink color and lots of fine, persistent bubbles.  Great, fresh aromas of crisp, cool strawberries and bread.  Very lively, fruity, and clean in the mouth, with really good balance.  Very refreshing.

I was surprised how good this was, probably because of my own prejudices. When I was a wholesale wine rep in NYC in the early 80s, the most popular wine in my line was Freixenet (in the jet black bottle), and at that point Freixenet and the competing brands of Spanish sparklers were pretty characterless.

Spec's website lists this for $8 and change, making it a FANTASTIC VALUE.

2009 Rabbit Ridge ZINFANDEL "Estate Grown" (Paso Robles, Cal.)

A bit too oaky and overripe for my taste.  Those who like massive, thickly-fruity Zins with lots of new oak will like this better than I did.

Dark ruby with a hint of brick.  Rich, very ripe nose: Sweet blackberry syrup and loads of smoky wood.  Low-toned in the mouth, with inky flavors of dark, dry blackberry syrup, sweet oak, and graphite.  Very low acidity and loads of body.  Concentrated, but a bit overripe and out of balance (the label says 14.9% alc., which isn't that far over the top for Zin, but it tasted far riper than that).  Very fine-grained tannin coats the mouth in the finish.  B-.  Was $15.57 at Spec's on Weslayan and Bissonnet.