Grandma, Nonno, and Molly's visit -- night 5

Every 5 years or so, I put a white in the freezer to chill it fast, but then forget I put it in there and by the time I remember it has frozen solid. The cork typically blows out as the liquid expands (water expands when frozen, and wine contains lots of water). It happened again. Good thing it wasn't a screw cap wine. It was an excellent German dry Riesling I previously reviewed, and after thawing it actually tasted pretty good, though not up to the standard of the unneglected bottle I had a few months ago. It was a 2008 Schafer-Frohlich RIESLING Trocken "Bockenauer" (Nahe, Germany). I won't review the frozen bottle.

Next up was the 2001 Chateau Haut-Bergey (Pessac-Leognan), one of my sentimental favorite estates in the Graves region of Bordeaux (I used to sell this when I worked for Paramount Wines in NY back in the early 80s). It's way more expensive now, but it's also stepped up in quality. It had a dark black, brickish ruby color befitting a mature Graves, and sported an intensely fragrant smoky, spiced gravel, and sweet cassis nose. Rich and soft, with deep, ripe fruit, and a smoky, earthy, oaky finish. It would have preferred the oak to be a bit less overt, but still it was very, very good, and peaking. 89.

Grandma, Nonno, and Molly's visit -- night 4

Polpetonne alla Toscana with two great wines I have enjoyed before and wanted to share with M&D:

2005 Chante Cigale CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE (Southern Rhone, France) -- I have reviewed this wine previously, and it remains very very good. Medium dark black ruby. Elegant, intensely minerally nose, with warm, dry gravel scents, incense, iodine, and dry blackberry extract. Dark and tannic, with deep-toned, iodine-rich blackberry fruit. Long finish coats the mouth with soft tannin on the physical side and clinging minerals on the taste side. Very nice. Drink in the next 2-3 years. 89.

2004 Renato Ratti BAROLO Rocche "Marcenasco" (Piemonte, Italy) -- Previously reviewed here, this remains a great Barolo. Dark black ruby with a hint of amber at the rim. Rich nose of dark cherries, cherry liqueur, and smoky earth. Soft, but with a dense concentration of dark cherry and dried cherry fruit. Fair amount of tannin in the back half of the palate. An excellent Barolo for drinking with special meals over the next 2-4 years. 91.

Grandma, Nonno, and Molly's visit -- night 3

2009 Hippolyte-Reverdy SANCERRE ROSE (Loire Valley, France) -- I think I've decided that the Pinot Noir roses from Sancerre are my favorites. This one was remarkable. Gorgeously light salmon color, gorgeously fruity nose of strawberries, cherries, and a light floral component. Perfumed as all get-out. Gorgeously light texture, but with intense yet vivacious fruit. Very nice acidity and a clean clean finish. Loved it. 90. $19.99 from B-21 Wines in Florida.

2005 Guigal GIGONDAS (Southern Rhone, France) -- Gigondas can be an unforgiving wine, sometimes too angular, lean, and/or rustic/coarse. But when it hits, it hits, and this one hit. Black ruby-garnet. Fantastic old-school spicy, gravelly-stony, dark berries and garrigue nose. Smells like the arid southern French countryside in a bottle. Dark, intensely rich, iodine-infused blackberry extract flavors. Full-bodied frame (just the teeniest bit of heat noticeable on the finish), and a fair amount of tannin. Very expressive and satisfying. Textbook Gigondas. 91. (Can't remember where I got this, but it wasn't in Houston).

2007 Domaine Weinbach RIESLING Schlossberg "Cuvee Saint Catherine L'Inedit" (Alsace France) -- this half bottle of late-picked Riesling (from a Grand Crus vineyard) was very backward at first, but then blossomed after about an hour. Extraordinarily pale gold color, and an amazingly rich, complex nose of deeply-spiced grapes and tropical fruit, brown sugar, and the sweetest minerals imaginable. Intensely flavorful, with earthy, spiced peach extract, ending in a long cling peach syrup and liquid mineral finish. Fairly full-bodied for a Riesling with a little heat in the long, long finish. Redunculous. 93. Was $46 per 375 ml at Houston Wine Merchant.

Grandma, Nonno, and Molly's visit -- night 2

2007 Darting Durkheimer Nonnengarten GEWURZTRAMINER Kabinett (Rheinpfalz, Germany) -- A relatively rare German Gewurz (Grandma's favorite grape?). A lilting and light nose of sweet, musky, tropical fruit, ripe pear and a teeny bit of Gewurz lychee nut. Gentler fruit (pear, grapefruit, guava) coats the mouth, but with a light texture, leaving a clean, lingering finish with the barest hint of bitterness. Slightly sweet, light bodied (only 9.5%). Terrific aperitif style Gewurz. 87. $20 at Spec's on Smith.

2006 Rainoldi SASSELLA Valtellina Superiore (Lombardy, Italy) -- Disappointing. In my view the main flaw in the Nebbiolo wines from the Valtellina is that they are frequently maddeningly thin. Like this one. Medium-light ruby garnet. With lots of airing, it exhibited a medium intensity nose of spiced cherries, balsa wood, and crushed stones. Medium-light bodied, with refreshing, focused, if somewhat thinnish flavors -- cherry fruit and an earthy, woodsy component. Still a little tannin present, which actually helps give the wine some textural interest. 85. Drink soon. $16.99 from Zachys.com (NY).

Grandma, Nonno, and Molly's visit -- night 1

Grandma, Nonno, and our niece Molly are visiting. So we're breaking out the good stuff.

2007 Leitz Rudesheimer Klosterlay RIESLING Kabinett (Rheingau, Germany) -- Outrageous nose of ripe grapes and peach, slate and sea shells, and a lightly floral component. Piercing up-front fruit coats the mouth, wrapped in a thin veneer of minerals. Light to medium-bodied, slightly sweet, but with very good balancing acidity. A long, lithe, ridiculously pure finish. 91. Was around $18 at Spec's awhile ago, so I am not sure they still have it. Imported by Michael Skurnick Wines.

2007 Herman Story Winery GRENACHE "Larner Vineyard" (Santa Barbara County, Cal.) -- From a teeny, weeny winery, this was a brooding but civilized monster. Completely saturated ruby purple. Intense nose of crushed rocks, gravel, and spicy raspberry syrup, as well as warm, just-out-of-the-oven baking spices. Huge body, with almost port-like richness, but dry. Deep favors of liquefied stony minerals, dried raspberry syrup. Long, long finish, with some peppery warmth from the alcohol (16.1%), but it's actually hidden well. 90. Was $39 at Spec's on Smith.

2008 Bishop's Peak PINOT NOIR (Central Coast, Cal.)

A second label of Talley Vineyard (an excellent Pinot producer), this wine was a decent value as Pinot Noirs go, showing off mostly the earthy side of the grape.

Medium light ruby garnet. Rich nose of wet, earthy cherry syrup and cola, along with some sweet high-toned smoke. Soft, medium-bodied, and ripe, this wine had ripe, earthy, cherry flavors and a long, sandstone-infused finish. Low acidity makes for a broad mouthfeel, and there's a bit of heat on the finish. A pretty good example of the traditional, earthy, ripe California style of old. Was $19 at Spec's on Smith. 87.

2006 Chateau Patache d'Aux MEDOC (Bordeaux, France)

I used to drink wines from this chateau in the early 80s but haven't had it since. They were good, solid, inexpensive wines then. The 2006 was lacked fragrance and was thinnish.

Sedate black ruby. Very shy nose gives up little: some cassis, some gravel and some green bell pepper. Tannic and bone dry, with some scorched earth and dark cherry/cassis fruit, but not much. Lean, medium length, somewhat bitter finish. 74. $17 at Spec's on Smith.

2007 "Quatro Pasos" MENCIA (Bierzo, Spain)

A decent Mencia (a grape apparently indigenous to the Iberian peninsula).

Fully saturated, violet-stained bloody ruby. Earthy, sweaty, humus-like fragrance, with dried balsa wood and blackberry notes. Tannic, highly-extracted flavors of scorched earth, baker's chocolate, with blackberry extract taking a back seat. Long, peppery finish. An angular, earthy bruiser. 84. $13 and change at Spec's on Weslayan & Bissonnet.

2007 Peter Franus ZINFANDEL (Napa Valley, Cal.)

A big, ripe, but still-in-balance Zin.

Fairly saturated dark black ruby. Big, briary, spicy black raspberry "Zin" nose, with some sweet smoky scents and some chalky, powdered minerals. Deep, weighty, full-bodied, with flavors dark raspberry and baker's chocolate. Gobs of soft tannin and very good, fairly crisp acidity for its size. Massive, but not too ripe or heavy. Will keep another 2 years or so. 89. $24 at Spec's on Smith.

2007 Pierre Morey BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ (White Burgundy)

Not bad.

Very pale grey gold. Medium intensity nose of earthy minerals, toasted nuts, and crisp, citrusy apples. Bone dry, crisp, liquid minerals in the mouth, with some vague lemon lime notes and a tart, refreshing finish. A light-bodied, palate-cleansing sort of wine that would pair nicely with New Orleans Barbequed Shrimp or an Italian fish stew like a brodetto. 85. Was $18 at Central Market. Imported by Wilson Daniels.

Miscellaneous food notes about Houston, etc.

Best French Fries -- Palace Bowling Lanes, 4191 Bellaire Blvd., Houston, Texas 77025. No joke. I am not a bowling fan, but when I have to go there for birthday parties, etc., I love the meaty, potatoey, perfectly golden fries!

Best Canned Tomatoes -- Strianese brand whole San Marzano tomatoes (the real McCoy, from the official D.O.P. in the Sarnese - Mocerino area in Campania, near Naples). They taste so ripe and tomatoey, yet have good acidity.

Available in a big (96 oz., I think) can for $10 at Nundini Italian Market and Deli, 500 N Shepherd Dr., which is a fantastic Italian deli and food store.

Favorite Quick Snack -- Spanish-seasoned olive oil-fried almonds. Take a handful of raw almonds, and gently fry them in 1/4 cup good olive oil for 5 minutes. Drain, then toss them with 40 turns of freshly ground sea salt, 1/4 teaspoon of sweet paprika, and 1/4 teaspoon of ground cayenne pepper. Let cool for 15 minutes. Addictive and healthy.

Best Pasta Brand I Can No Longer Find -- Giuseppe Cocco Fara St. Martino. Central Market used to carry it, but no longer. Has a ridiculously pure pasta flavor and soaks up any kind of sauce beautifully. Note to Central Market: BRING THIS BACK per piacere!

Favorite Olive Oil for Salads and Dipping Bread -- Montebello

Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil. From an organic monastery in Marche, Italy, this olive oil is light, fragrantly herbal at first, and then with a nice, subdued peppery bite kicks in at the back of the palate. 12 oz. bottle is about $15 at Whole Foods on Bellaire. Here's a photo of their pasta (which is very good), because I can't find an image of the olive oil and the labels are similar:

2007 Boutari NAOUSSA (Greece)

Made from the Xinomavro grape, this wine initially reminded me of a lot of the Long Island Cab Franc's I used to taste when I was in the wine business in NYC in the early 80s. After airing, however, it changed.

Medium ruby color. At first, it displayed a very dark herbal, licorice dominated nose, with some dark berry fruit underneath. After two days in a Vacu-Vin closure, however, the nose was more mainstream, with nice, ripe cherry fruit and some smoky, underbrush scents. Medium bodied, with bone-dry flavors of dark cherry, intense minerals, and scorched earth. Long, very dry finish. Decent acidity and nicely balanced. 87. Was $15 at Spec's on Smith. Imported by Terlato Wines.

2005 Chateau Tour St. Bonnet (Medoc, France)

This is a classic Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux. I'm not usually a Bordeaux or Cabernet/Merlot fan, but this is a wine I could drink a lot of without tiring. It's also an excellent value. Try it with grilled lamb.

A blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 5% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot, this wine had a dark ruby color that is just beginning to show a bit of age. Very nice nose of cedar, cassis, and scorched earth. Nice eight and fruit in the mouth. Good balance, good structure. Flavors of cassis and low-toned smoky earth. Long, dry, fairly smooth finish with some nice tannins giving some definition to the medium bodied frame. Classic structure, classic flavors. 88. Was $15 at Spec's Warehouse on Westheimer/Commonwealth.

2007 Chateau de Saint Cosme COTES DU RHONE "Les Deux Albion" (Rhone Valley, France)

This 50% Syrah 50% Grenache wine is a perennial winner.

Luxurious black ruby robe. (Yup, it's a robe, not just color). Decadent nose of sweet berry extract and perfumey, smoky gravel. Rich, ripe, broad flavors coat the mouth with loads of low-toned berry fruit and clingy, iodiney minerals. Extremely full-bodied, with a long, warm finish that features fairly low (but not too low) acidity and abundant but ripe tannins. Made almost in a Chateauneuf style, this wine pushes the envelope but remains in balance. 89. Was $19 at Spec's. Imported by Stacole.

2007 Carpineto CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

A very solid and satisfying Chianti. Good value.

Dark black ruby with the barest beginnings of ambering at the rim. Big, boisterous, old-fashioned Chianti nose of winey cherry liqueur, smoky gravel, and old barrels. Weighty and concentrated, with penetrating, earthy cherry fruitiness, great acidity, and a load of fairly soft, drying tannin in the finish. Rustic (for a Classico) and very good. 88. Was about $17 at Spec's on Smith. Imported by Opici Imports.

2008 Verasol "Tn" Tempranillo (Navarra, Spain)

Like a cloying version of a Spanish Beaujolais.

Vibrant dark ruby color with a hint of violet. Loud, massively fruity nose of amplified blackberry and boysenberry. Gobs of straightforward, ripe, slightly tangy fruit. Some minerality makes itself known in the back of the mouth. Low acid, soft, and full-bodied. Simple, flavorful, and satisfying in a dufus-y way. 82. Was $12.99 at Whole Foods on Bellaire. Imported by Jose Pastor Selections.

2006 Jacques Puffeney ARBOIS Pinot Noir (France)

Grown in a backwater region midway between Burgundy and the Swiss border, this wine makes you imagine a mountain stream flowing with Pinot Noir. Distinctive and very good.

Light ruby color with some amber at the rim. Lively, interesting nose of stony, cool minerals, crisp cherries and cherry pits, and high-toned, sweet smoke. In the mouth, it's vibrant, lively, and penetrating, with piercing cherry fruit, hints of old wine barrels, and lots of stony minerals. Still some soft tannin in the crisp, lean, but lengthy finish. 89. Will hold nicely for another year. Was $33 at Spec's on Smith (not cheap, but worth it). Imported by Neal Rosenthal.

2007 "La Huella de Adaras" ALMANSA (Spain)

This was a truly unique wine. It was kind of like an Australian rugby player who takes ballet lessons. Not for the faint of heart. Made from the Alicante Bouschet grape, which locally is known as the Garnacha Tintorea, even though it's not related to Grenache at all.

Saturated black ruby with a little lightening at the rim. Animated, animal nose, with beefy, woodsy, baker's chocolatey scents, along with tangy, rich blackberry fruit. Full, aggressive flavors of rich, ripe dark berries, along with drying baker's chocolate again, and lots of crushed stones underneath. Tangy acidity presents a startling counterpoint to the big flavors, and there's a lingering , pleasant bitterness in the finish. Loads of character here. 89. Was $14.99 at Houston Wine Merchant. Imported by Eric Solomon.

2009 Chateau Mourgues du Grés "Les Galets Rosés" COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES ROSÉ (Rhone Valley, France)

A very fruity, lively, and balanced dry rosé made from Syrah and Grenache.

Light, bright, youthful pink color. Intensely fruity nose of fresh peach and watermelon, with the barest whiff of stony minerals. Great purity. Soft, round, and mouthfilling, yet with a light feel. Lots of pure fruit flavors and a clean, dry finish. Not a crisp rosé, but not flabby either. 88. Good value at $13 and change at Spec's on Smith. Drink over the next 6 months. Imported by Imported by Weygandt-Metzler.

2008 Domaine La Bastide "les Genets" SYRAH "Vieilles Vignes" (VDP, Languedoc,Southern France)

This Syrah -- from a dry, hot region in the south of France, and unoaked, I think -- is an excellent value. I would put this up against Crozes-Hermitages and oaky U.S. Syrahs costing 2-3 times as much.

Gorgeously dark ruby with violet highlights. Deeply fruity nose of rich cassis and blackberry along with smoky, gravelly scents. Concentrated and tight, with good weight in the mouth yet with a relatively soft texture. Tightly-wound core of deep-toned dark berry fruit with a long, mineral/schist-infused finish. Soft enough to enjoy now, yet its balance, concentration, and loads of soft tannin will insure that it will keep for a couple of years. 88. Only $11 at Spec's on Smith. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler.