Miscellaneous food notes about Houston, etc.

Best French Fries -- Palace Bowling Lanes, 4191 Bellaire Blvd., Houston, Texas 77025. No joke. I am not a bowling fan, but when I have to go there for birthday parties, etc., I love the meaty, potatoey, perfectly golden fries!

Best Canned Tomatoes -- Strianese brand whole San Marzano tomatoes (the real McCoy, from the official D.O.P. in the Sarnese - Mocerino area in Campania, near Naples). They taste so ripe and tomatoey, yet have good acidity.

Available in a big (96 oz., I think) can for $10 at Nundini Italian Market and Deli, 500 N Shepherd Dr., which is a fantastic Italian deli and food store.

Favorite Quick Snack -- Spanish-seasoned olive oil-fried almonds. Take a handful of raw almonds, and gently fry them in 1/4 cup good olive oil for 5 minutes. Drain, then toss them with 40 turns of freshly ground sea salt, 1/4 teaspoon of sweet paprika, and 1/4 teaspoon of ground cayenne pepper. Let cool for 15 minutes. Addictive and healthy.

Best Pasta Brand I Can No Longer Find -- Giuseppe Cocco Fara St. Martino. Central Market used to carry it, but no longer. Has a ridiculously pure pasta flavor and soaks up any kind of sauce beautifully. Note to Central Market: BRING THIS BACK per piacere!

Favorite Olive Oil for Salads and Dipping Bread -- Montebello

Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil. From an organic monastery in Marche, Italy, this olive oil is light, fragrantly herbal at first, and then with a nice, subdued peppery bite kicks in at the back of the palate. 12 oz. bottle is about $15 at Whole Foods on Bellaire. Here's a photo of their pasta (which is very good), because I can't find an image of the olive oil and the labels are similar:

2007 Boutari NAOUSSA (Greece)

Made from the Xinomavro grape, this wine initially reminded me of a lot of the Long Island Cab Franc's I used to taste when I was in the wine business in NYC in the early 80s. After airing, however, it changed.

Medium ruby color. At first, it displayed a very dark herbal, licorice dominated nose, with some dark berry fruit underneath. After two days in a Vacu-Vin closure, however, the nose was more mainstream, with nice, ripe cherry fruit and some smoky, underbrush scents. Medium bodied, with bone-dry flavors of dark cherry, intense minerals, and scorched earth. Long, very dry finish. Decent acidity and nicely balanced. 87. Was $15 at Spec's on Smith. Imported by Terlato Wines.

2005 Chateau Tour St. Bonnet (Medoc, France)

This is a classic Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux. I'm not usually a Bordeaux or Cabernet/Merlot fan, but this is a wine I could drink a lot of without tiring. It's also an excellent value. Try it with grilled lamb.

A blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 5% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot, this wine had a dark ruby color that is just beginning to show a bit of age. Very nice nose of cedar, cassis, and scorched earth. Nice eight and fruit in the mouth. Good balance, good structure. Flavors of cassis and low-toned smoky earth. Long, dry, fairly smooth finish with some nice tannins giving some definition to the medium bodied frame. Classic structure, classic flavors. 88. Was $15 at Spec's Warehouse on Westheimer/Commonwealth.

2007 Chateau de Saint Cosme COTES DU RHONE "Les Deux Albion" (Rhone Valley, France)

This 50% Syrah 50% Grenache wine is a perennial winner.

Luxurious black ruby robe. (Yup, it's a robe, not just color). Decadent nose of sweet berry extract and perfumey, smoky gravel. Rich, ripe, broad flavors coat the mouth with loads of low-toned berry fruit and clingy, iodiney minerals. Extremely full-bodied, with a long, warm finish that features fairly low (but not too low) acidity and abundant but ripe tannins. Made almost in a Chateauneuf style, this wine pushes the envelope but remains in balance. 89. Was $19 at Spec's. Imported by Stacole.

2007 Carpineto CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

A very solid and satisfying Chianti. Good value.

Dark black ruby with the barest beginnings of ambering at the rim. Big, boisterous, old-fashioned Chianti nose of winey cherry liqueur, smoky gravel, and old barrels. Weighty and concentrated, with penetrating, earthy cherry fruitiness, great acidity, and a load of fairly soft, drying tannin in the finish. Rustic (for a Classico) and very good. 88. Was about $17 at Spec's on Smith. Imported by Opici Imports.

2008 Verasol "Tn" Tempranillo (Navarra, Spain)

Like a cloying version of a Spanish Beaujolais.

Vibrant dark ruby color with a hint of violet. Loud, massively fruity nose of amplified blackberry and boysenberry. Gobs of straightforward, ripe, slightly tangy fruit. Some minerality makes itself known in the back of the mouth. Low acid, soft, and full-bodied. Simple, flavorful, and satisfying in a dufus-y way. 82. Was $12.99 at Whole Foods on Bellaire. Imported by Jose Pastor Selections.

2006 Jacques Puffeney ARBOIS Pinot Noir (France)

Grown in a backwater region midway between Burgundy and the Swiss border, this wine makes you imagine a mountain stream flowing with Pinot Noir. Distinctive and very good.

Light ruby color with some amber at the rim. Lively, interesting nose of stony, cool minerals, crisp cherries and cherry pits, and high-toned, sweet smoke. In the mouth, it's vibrant, lively, and penetrating, with piercing cherry fruit, hints of old wine barrels, and lots of stony minerals. Still some soft tannin in the crisp, lean, but lengthy finish. 89. Will hold nicely for another year. Was $33 at Spec's on Smith (not cheap, but worth it). Imported by Neal Rosenthal.

2007 "La Huella de Adaras" ALMANSA (Spain)

This was a truly unique wine. It was kind of like an Australian rugby player who takes ballet lessons. Not for the faint of heart. Made from the Alicante Bouschet grape, which locally is known as the Garnacha Tintorea, even though it's not related to Grenache at all.

Saturated black ruby with a little lightening at the rim. Animated, animal nose, with beefy, woodsy, baker's chocolatey scents, along with tangy, rich blackberry fruit. Full, aggressive flavors of rich, ripe dark berries, along with drying baker's chocolate again, and lots of crushed stones underneath. Tangy acidity presents a startling counterpoint to the big flavors, and there's a lingering , pleasant bitterness in the finish. Loads of character here. 89. Was $14.99 at Houston Wine Merchant. Imported by Eric Solomon.

2009 Chateau Mourgues du Grés "Les Galets Rosés" COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES ROSÉ (Rhone Valley, France)

A very fruity, lively, and balanced dry rosé made from Syrah and Grenache.

Light, bright, youthful pink color. Intensely fruity nose of fresh peach and watermelon, with the barest whiff of stony minerals. Great purity. Soft, round, and mouthfilling, yet with a light feel. Lots of pure fruit flavors and a clean, dry finish. Not a crisp rosé, but not flabby either. 88. Good value at $13 and change at Spec's on Smith. Drink over the next 6 months. Imported by Imported by Weygandt-Metzler.

2008 Domaine La Bastide "les Genets" SYRAH "Vieilles Vignes" (VDP, Languedoc,Southern France)

This Syrah -- from a dry, hot region in the south of France, and unoaked, I think -- is an excellent value. I would put this up against Crozes-Hermitages and oaky U.S. Syrahs costing 2-3 times as much.

Gorgeously dark ruby with violet highlights. Deeply fruity nose of rich cassis and blackberry along with smoky, gravelly scents. Concentrated and tight, with good weight in the mouth yet with a relatively soft texture. Tightly-wound core of deep-toned dark berry fruit with a long, mineral/schist-infused finish. Soft enough to enjoy now, yet its balance, concentration, and loads of soft tannin will insure that it will keep for a couple of years. 88. Only $11 at Spec's on Smith. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler.

2009 Guerrieri-Rizzardi BARDOLINO CHIARETTO CLASSICO (Rosé) (Veneto, Italy)

A relatively rare rosé from Italy. And a very good one!

Light, bright pink color with a canteloupe tinge. Direct, fresh, fruity nose: lots of strawberry and tropical fruit; slight hint of earth. Round, richly-fruited, but with medium-light weight in the mouth. Very soft texture, pure fruit, and a fresh, dry, slightly minerally long finish. Very elegant and nicely-done. 89. Imported by Enotec Imports and was $16.99 at Houston Wine Merchant.

2006 Umani Ronchi ROSSO CONERO "San Lorenzo" (Marche, Italy)

A classically-proportioned example of the quintessential red from my ancestors' region of Italy (Le Marche -- which is mid-way up the boot on the Adriatic coast). Made from 100% Montepulciano grapes.

Very black-toned ruby. Smoky gravel scents over minerally blackberry extract. Dark, brooding flavors of fragrant charcoal embers and very low-toned dark cherry. Gives the impression of a rustic, country wine that has learned how carry itself elegantly. Good acidity and tannin for structure. Long, smoky finish. Was a great accompaniment to pork ribs braised in wine and tomatoes with garlic and rosemary (a classic Marchigiano style braise). 88. Was $17 at Spec's on Smith. Imported by Bedford International.

2009 Domaine du Tariquet SAUVIGNON (BLANC) (VDP Cotes de Gascogne, France)

A fleshy, fruity, grassy Sauvignon. Not elegant, but doesn't skimp on flavor.

Pale silvery gold. Fresh nose of cold grapes and gooseberries, with grassy, green pepper notes. Soft and fleshy in the mouth, with lots of pear and pear skin flavors. Full for a Sauvignon Blanc, with fairly low acidity and a broad mouthfeel. Not a shy, crisp minerally Loire style. Much more New World than French-seeming. 86. Imported by Robert Kacher. I think I got this at Whole Foods on Bellaire for $12.

2006 Terredora di Paolo LACRYMA CHRISTI DEL VESUVIO ROSSO (Campania, Italy)

Teetering at the edge of old age, this wine is good but needs to be drunk immediately.

Ruby color with some amber at the rim. Right out of the bottle, the wine had a fantastic nose of smoky, rich gravel, tobacco, and rich plum juice, with a hint of eucalyptus. The mouth was not quite up to the standard set by the nose. High-toned, mature flavors of dried underbrush, iodine, and macerated red fruits. Drying finish. More austere in the mouth than the nose suggests. 90 for the nose with an 80 for the mouth. 85 overall. (Not sure where this is available, or how much it costs as it was a gift).

Two mediocre wines

These were both disappointing.

2007 Domaine Chevreau "Or Rouge" BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES -- From one of my favorite importers (Neal Rosenthal), strangely enough, this wine was both bitter and tart. Sour cherry and caramelized sugar flavors, and lots of green acidity. ($16 at Spec's).

2009 Domaine Castillon COSTIERES DE NIMES ROSE -- A flat, overripe rose. Loads of fruit and body, but at the expense of the acidity needed for freshness. ($7.99 per 500 ml bottle at Whole Foods on Bellaire).

2008 ElementOs 70% Tempranillo/30% Garnacha (Calatayud, Spain)

A ridiculous bargain! A soft, well-made, flavorful red with a bit of complexity for $5.99? Pretty darn rare. I bought this to cook with and ended up drinking most of it.

Dark ruby color. Youthful nose of blueberries, cinnamon, and coffee. Mouthfilling clean blackberry fruit augmented with stony minerals. Pure-tasting, decently long finish, with good balancing acidity. 87. $5.99 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

(Sorry -- couldn't find a photo.)

2008 "THREE TREES" (100% Syrah) (VDP de Cotes Catalanes, southwest France)

This is a very good wine for the money. Tastes like a much more expensive Cornas.

Dark black ruby with violet highlights. Closed at first, with significant air time (and pouring through a Vinturi), it develops a big, dark, meaty, smoky blackcherry extract nose. The glory here, however, is in the mouth. These grapes must have been picked the perfect time. Loads of perfectly ripe, plummy, blackberry fruit, together with loads of smoky, sandstoney earth, Fantastic acidity. Lots of chewy, ripe tannins. Excellent! 90. Was $16.99 at Houston Wine Merchant on South Shepherd. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections.

2006 Eric Chevalier (Domaine de l'Aujardiere) CHARDONNAY (Loire Valley, France)

This is an outstanding value in a fresh, minerally, unoaked Chardonnay. Tastes a lot like a high quality Chablis.

Very light gold color. Nose of lemony-limey fresh grapes infused with chalky rock dust. Loads of lively, peachy fruit, with a clean, stony component throughout. Bone dry and very refreshing. Medium-light bodied, with a very pure-tasting finish. Very nice, and definitely a repeat purchase at $13 and change at Spec's on Smith. 88. A Kermit Lynch Selection.

2009 Chateau Saint-Pierre de Mejans ROSÉ (Cotes de Luberon, France)

This was a terrific, refreshing rose.

Very light, pinkish-copper color. Very fresh, ripe nose of earthy minerals and freshly-crushed plums. In the mouth, loads of ripe fruit and mineral flavors are delivered in a medium-bodied, dry format. Very good acidity, especially for a wine from southern France. 88. Was $14 and change at Spec's on Smith.

2006 Masi "Brolo di Campofiorin" RIPASSO (Veneto, Italy)

An example of what would have been -- if not for the use of small oak instead of the typical large casks -- an excellent wine. The influence of the small barrels made it too oaky for its own good.

Sultry, black ruby/crimson color. Rich but intensely oaky nose, with ripe, sappy black cherry and smoky earth underneath. Dark, chocolatey, and intense, with good balancing acidity. Unfortunately, the taste of oak overshadows the fruit, detracting from what otherwise were obviously good raw materials. 84. Was $16 at Nundini's Deli -- a great Italian import store on North Shepherd.